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Been spending a lot of time on here!
Yashica-Mat LM restoration help needed.
I recently received a Yashica-Mat LM TLR. In all honesty, the camera is in pretty rough shape. The shutter sticks, one side of the focusing mechanism is stuck,the meter doesn't work, the leatherette is flaking off and the mirror is flaking.
I have decided to attempt a restoration myself since:
A) The camera was free.
B) It is already broken.
C) I like a challenge.
I am currently in the dissemble stage. I am taking pictures of each step and labeling everything, so I don't mix anything up. I have read the tips in the restoration sticky and saved a lot of time and headache by using the tip to remove the leatherette.
Besides replacing the leather, which I have already ordered, I would like to keep it all original. I have a few questions the someone here might be able to help with.
What is the best method for freeing a sticking shutter? It still works fine on faster settings, but on anything 1/4 and slower, you can hear the gears struggling to move.
Is there anywhere I might be able to find a working light meter? This isn't really that important, but would be nice to have.
Where can I find a replacement mirror? Can I just have a glass shop cut one?
Finally, what is a good lubricant to replace the old stuff with? What I have removed from the camera so far could best be described as glue...
I also plan to have a new leather case made by a local leather shop. The original one is completely rotten.
Thank you in advance!
Any help, tips or advice would be appreciated. I am in no great hurry to complete this project as I would like to do it the right way and get everything done to the best of my abilities.
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12-19-2011 06:09 PM
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Use naphtha to clean sticky shutter blades and escapements. Hardware stores have it or you can use Ronsinol lighter fluid (same thing). It dissolves the old oil and evaporates quickly leaving no residue of its own. You want to remove the old oil which has thickened and gummed up the escapement ("watch works" for timing slow shutter speeds, self timer, etc). and migrated onto the shutter blades, causing them to stick. The blades should be clean and dry. You can put a bit of watch oil on the escapement after cleaning but only a tiny bit as too much will end up gumming up the blades. Put no oil on the blades and don't get any liquid between lens elements where you can't wipe it up.
Careful -- naphtha is highly flammable and use it in a well ventilated area as the fumes are toxic.
Last edited by compur; 12-19-2011 at 07:23 PM.
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I spend too much of my life on TPF!
Mirror replacement...
yashicatlr1005
This site has a couple pics of the Yashicamat 124 meter, same as yours, and a Yashicamat shutter repair , same as yours...
Camera Rebuilds & Repairs
Light meters generally go bad because either a dead photo cell or corroded contacts.
If you can't find watch oil, go to a music store n get the oil used on trumpet valves, same NyOil. Apply only a very small dot on each gear pin, also very sparingly.
Washing the shutter I like using Coleman or MSR camping stove fuel called white gas in the USA sold at camping outfitters like EMS n REI.
Grease is lithium grease, I use Lubriplate brand, also used very sparingly on rub joints like your shutter firing button n such.
Anyone can make a digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.
paul ron
automax1@juno.com
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
I thank both of you.
I have gotten the focus assembly cleaned and put back together. The old grease was like glue and the main problem was one of the "gears" was misaligned. Everything is moving freely now.
I am currently in the process of reassembling the film advance. Then on to the shutter.
Thanks again. I will post a few pictures soon if I remember.
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
So, I got the body back together and everything is working smoothly.
One problem I am having is, when I cleaned the shutter, it started working smoothly. Or so I thought. I set it aside to completely dry and oiled it like the references said. After cocking the shutter and tripping it, the shutter moved about a quarter of the way shut and stopped. I managed to free it by cocking the shutter again. I used a little more naphtha as a light lube to free everything and added a few drops of oil to the gears. It is setting off to the side to dry right now.
Does anyone have any tips or ideas to address this?
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Good work. I would like to see the process ... I am going to try adding to my Yashica TLR collection (currently have a Yashica-A and Yashica-Mat) a Yashica-Mat LM with a sticky shutter release button.
Minolta Maxxum 9000/Sony Alpha SLT-A55/Ricoh Diacord/Voigtlander Bessa 46
The best photographs make it look like the "photography" is secondary.
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MIR
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
I will take a few pictures showing the camera in a bit. Right now, I just have my disassembly pictures.
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
The condition of the lube:

Close up:

Other side:

Film advance crank:

Front, no cover:

Top, no view finder or mirror:

Back:

Bottom:

Back, open:

Front, with cover:

Inside the front cover (The hole at the top right is bigger than the head of the screw. Apparently, someone tried to pry it off at one time..)

Top of viewfinder, closed:

Inside the viewfinder:

Viewfinder, magnifier up:

Focusing knob with calculator:

Light meter, front:

Light meter, top:

Sorry for the cell phone pictures. It is what I have been using as a camera to take it apart.
Yes, that is an orange sheet. I have it on my table so, I can see all the small parts when I set them down...
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Originally Posted by
Ratman667
So, I got the body back together and everything is working smoothly.
One problem I am having is, when I cleaned the shutter, it started working smoothly. Or so I thought. I set it aside to completely dry and oiled it like the references said. After cocking the shutter and tripping it, the shutter moved about a quarter of the way shut and stopped. I managed to free it by cocking the shutter again. I used a little more naphtha as a light lube to free everything and added a few drops of oil to the gears. It is setting off to the side to dry right now.
Does anyone have any tips or ideas to address this?
This is common. You need to clean it thoroughly and then set it aside (I let it sit for a day usually) and then try it again. Often times it will still be sticky after the wait so I clean it some more and repeat. The naphtha dissolves the oil and allows it to operate until it evaporates and the oil you didn't clean off thickens again.
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
I tried the shutter again on a 1 second exposure and everything is working smoothly now.
I spoke to a guy at work who restores old bicycles about the hole on the front cover. We are going to try filling the hole in with lead solder and drilling a new one.
I am also going to add a small drop of solder to the head of the screw holding the shutter button in. It is about 1/32" too short and doesn't fully trip the shutter. When I press it, if pushes the lever enough to unlock the film advance, but the shutter doesn't budge.
Other than those two things, all I have left is to strip the rest of the leatherette off, clean the glass in the viewfinder and wait for the new mirror and leather to arrive.
After the first of the year, I will speak to a leather shop about the case. I also need to order a new lens cap too, but that is a minor detail.
Thanks for all the input and I will keep this thread updated with my progress.
Sent from my ADR6400L using Tapatalk
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I hope you don't mind me jumping in on your thread.....but am also a new owner of Yashica Mat LM. And recently, when I went to adjust the Focusing knob with calculator, as you have labeled in your photo above, the knob just started to spin without pressure on it. So no more focus for me. I heard there is a nut under that knob that I need tighten. But I don't know what spanner tool I need to fit those two small holes in the top of the knob. You can see the two holes in your picture. Heck, I might not even be on the right track. In any case, I really need to clean it such as your are doing. Thanks
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Been spending a lot of time on here!
I used two very small precision screw drivers and turned it carefully. You may want to put some tape down first to avoid scratches if you are unsure of yourself. After you get the cover off, use a pair of hemostats to tighten the two nuts.
I took mine apart because it didn't work. If you have any doubts in your ability, contact an expert to restore it for you. After buying everything you need to restore it, you will spend about the same.
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Thanks for the advice. I will look online to find them screw drivers. They must be really small, because I could not even get a paper clip in those holes. I'm pretty talented in lots of mechanical areas. However, I have my suspicion that I would rather shoot photos then work on my cameras. But I'm gonna try and repair that failure myself. As for the rest I might just consider paying someone else to recondition mine. Outside of that knob problem mine seems really clean and functional. But who knows. LOL we shall see.
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I spend too much of my life on TPF!
Ratman, yhou can get the leatherete from MicroTools in a fine or course texture. It is self adharing and comes on sheets fairly inexpensive.
Nice job on the restoration, now you're a Yashica junkie n will buy up all the broken Yashies out there. I've jsut about ogt a full collection in duplicate, I just love em so much.
BTW Be carefull to have the sync on X when using the self timer, otherwise you'll jam the shutter n have to open her up again.
The shutter fire buitton screws in n out to adjust?... or perhaps bend the tab it makes contact with?
Insterad of solder, use auto body filler with a backer to keep it in place, the heat will make a mess.
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Anyone can make a digital print, but only a photographer can make a photograph.
paul ron
automax1@juno.com