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  1. #16
    ann
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    fstop, f8, three second exposure across the paper,

    It is helpful if you have a blank piece of film to use as it is larger than the rebate.

    Then cover the paper with a piece of cardboard leaving about 1/4 inch uncover, expose and then move the cardboard another 1/4 expose and continue until you run out of paper. Develop for 90 seconds. View results under normal light and count strips until you can no longer see a line dividing steps of grey, That is the min. time to get max black.

    Check Ilord's site for some very good information regarding how too.
    Last edited by ann; 09-19-2011 at 01:39 PM.

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  3. #17
    No longer a newbie, moving up!
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    Do a test strip. In school I would always go up 2-3 clicks from lowest light and set the timer for 25 sec. Then I would take a small piece of matte board (anything thick that won't allow light through would work) and move it across the strip every 5 seconds (move at 20, 15, 10, and 5 seconds) and when you develop you'll know how long you need to expose your print. If it comes out dark, turn your light down and do another test strip. This is the easiest way to figure out exposure time. Saves time and paper. Hope this helps.

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    I pretty much worked without a safe light most of the time, its not that difficult with a little experience and it eliminates one potential problem.

  5. #19
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    well here are a couple of prints I just got finished.

  6. #20
    ann
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    Hard to tell as the toning is a bit harsh (for my two cents, ) but they look a bit underexposed on my monitor.

    It would be easier to tell if we could see the negative. Check your negative and see if there is information in the shadows and if so, doge at bit. If not, I would make an adjustment in ISO to allow for better shadow detail.

  7. #21
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    Using film base plus fog and minimum time, maximum black a la Ansel Adams and Fred Picker takes much of the guess work out of exposure. The up-front ASA testing has saved me a great deal of time and money.

 

 
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