Results 1 to 14 of 14
Thread: Help with multiple film types
-
10-17-2006, 04:03 AM #1Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Delaware
- Posts
- 226
- My Gallery
- (0)
- Liked
- 0 times
Help with multiple film types
I have only been shooting with film for a while and 400 speed seems to work well however I'd like to try something different. I've heard a lot of people talking about 100 speed and slides etc. Which one is better for longer exposures? I'll be working with natural light and a tripod. I'm interested in landscape and macro photography </treehugger> lol. Does anyone have suggestions? Thanks
Dylan
My Pbase site
All Images are open to edit provided you explain your method.
-
10-17-2006 04:03 AM # ADS
-
10-17-2006, 04:16 AM #2TPF Junkie!
- Join Date
- Jan 2006
- Location
- Tottenville, Staten Island, NYC USA
- Posts
- 2,014
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are OK to Edit
- Liked
- 0 times
With a non-moving subject and a tripod, film speed doesn't matter and the only criteria is grain or the lack of it. Lower ISO = less grainy negative/slide.
You mentioned longer exposures. If they're really long, reciprocity failure may become important. Check it out."And gladly would he learn, and gladly teach." [Chaucer]
-
10-17-2006, 04:26 AM #3alter ego: Analog Matt
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Santa Barbara, CA
- Posts
- 5,346
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 2 times
What he said. ^
Fuji Provia 100F is a good film for long exposures. Reciprocity failure begins after 10 seconds I believe, I think you compensate by adding 1/3 to the exposure after that. Long exposures at night are a lot of guess work anyway.
Slide film is highly recommend for landscape work.
-
10-17-2006, 08:02 AM #4Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- Georgia
- Posts
- 215
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are OK to Edit
- Liked
- 0 times
Reciprocity failure happens with exposures of 1 second or longer and differ from film to film. Look up the technical data sheet on whatever film you are using and it will give you the reciprocity failure for that film. It is very important for transparency films because that exposure needs to be right on.
-
10-17-2006, 10:02 AM #5I spend too much of my life on TPF!
- Join Date
- Mar 2004
- Location
- Delavan, Wisconsin, USA
- Posts
- 846
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are OK to Edit
- Liked
- 1 times
The vast majority of Landscape photographers like to use slow films like the Fuji Velvia 50 or the newer Velvia 100.
When using slow films it is easier to creat those soft water effects by using a slow shutter speed. Waterfalls that look like cotton or soft etherial misty waves on a shoreline are achieved by using shutter speeds of 1/2sec to several seconds and slow films facilitate that.WJS/wi/usa
-
10-17-2006, 01:50 PM #6Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Delaware
- Posts
- 226
- My Gallery
- (0)
- Liked
- 0 times
Velvia
The velvia sounds like something I could use. I'll try it out. I priced it on Amazon and boy is it expensive. Do I need to have this developed at a special shop or can anyone do it?
Dylan
My Pbase site
All Images are open to edit provided you explain your method.
-
10-17-2006, 05:48 PM #7alter ego: Analog Matt
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Santa Barbara, CA
- Posts
- 5,346
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 2 times
Slide film is developed with an E6 process, and is not readily available at your local 1 hour photo. I'd look for a pro lab near you.
Originally Posted by Dylan
-
10-17-2006, 07:02 PM #8TPF Junkie!
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- North Georgia
- Posts
- 1,070
- My Gallery
- (9)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 78 times
Remeber to that once the slide are back they will have to be scanned and printed. Most 1 hour labs don't do this either. If you are just learning I think I would just try some Fuji 100 film or 200 film from a department store. You won't get pro results but you will learn to shot the slower film.
-
10-18-2006, 04:07 PM #9Been spending a lot of time on here!
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Location
- Delaware
- Posts
- 226
- My Gallery
- (0)
- Liked
- 0 times
Hmmm that's a good point. I don't have the right kind of scanner for negatives. I guess it couldn't hurt to try with the regular 100 untill I get some practice. thanks for the advice.
Dylan
My Pbase site
All Images are open to edit provided you explain your method.
-
10-18-2006, 04:25 PM #10TPF Junkie!
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- North Georgia
- Posts
- 1,070
- My Gallery
- (9)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 78 times
I have had good luck with the Wal-Mart Fuji film. Sometimes it over saturates some but when you get your film developed tell them cd only. It will only cost $5.00 or less. Take your cd home and PhotoShop your scans. I am shooting e-6 right now but I do have an older scanner I got off of e-bay. You can get a fairly good scanner at office depot for $150.00 or so.
Cosmo
Also e-6 is very unforgiveing with exposure, it's easier to screw it up. Standard film exposure can be fixed, 2 to 3 stops by the lab and you never really know if you nailed exposure right.Last edited by cosmonaut; 10-18-2006 at 04:31 PM.
-
10-18-2006, 06:50 PM #11alter ego: Analog Matt
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Santa Barbara, CA
- Posts
- 5,346
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 2 times
Since you have to find a pro lab to develop your E-6, they can certainly scan it for you as well. That's how they would make prints for you anyway. Everything is digital in commercial printing now.
-
10-18-2006, 07:06 PM #12TPF Junkie!
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- North Georgia
- Posts
- 1,070
- My Gallery
- (9)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 78 times
This is true, but they charge anywhere from $2.00 and up per print. It can get pretty pricey. As far as developing I have found a lab that charges only $5.00 per 24 exposure roll...
Cosmo
-
10-19-2006, 05:09 AM #13alter ego: Analog Matt
- Join Date
- Jan 2004
- Location
- Santa Barbara, CA
- Posts
- 5,346
- My Gallery
- (0)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 2 times
You don't need to get prints in order to get scans. Just get develops and scans. My pro lab, which is expensive imho, charges $0.43 per frame for a 4x6" 300 dpi scan.
-
10-19-2006, 07:50 AM #14TPF Junkie!
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Location
- North Georgia
- Posts
- 1,070
- My Gallery
- (9)
- My Photos Are NOT OK to Edit
- Liked
- 78 times
Good point. That's what I usally do too. Once you get it on computer you can Photoshop it and order a print anytime. And if you have a good enough printer do it in house. Wal-mart will scan for .58 cents per scan. I have to tell the lab NO TO ADJUST or they will lighten or darken your scans and sometimes ruin the quality by blowing out the sky or something....
CosmoLast edited by cosmonaut; 10-19-2006 at 07:55 AM.
Similar Threads
-
Multiple exposures on the same frame(film)
By Maplerock in forum Film Discussion and Q & AReplies: 2Last Post: 10-31-2010, 07:29 AM -
film types?
By nrois02 in forum Film Discussion and Q & AReplies: 5Last Post: 03-04-2009, 11:42 PM -
Types of film
By Aetos in forum Film Discussion and Q & AReplies: 5Last Post: 10-20-2006, 11:38 AM -
Film types for bright conditions
By doug1987 in forum Film Discussion and Q & AReplies: 7Last Post: 07-03-2006, 07:15 AM -
Film Types
By vonDrehle in forum Beyond the BasicsReplies: 5Last Post: 06-30-2005, 09:49 AM




LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote
