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Thread: Cheap macro lense?

  1. #16
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    Coastalconn, thank you very much for taking the time to do that! That really gives me a better idea of what everyone has been talking about regarding the distance.

    So, cgipson1 was saying that a 40mm lens would have to be within about 3" of the object being photographed, and then you show that a 90mm lens needs to be 4" away. So, going up to a focal length of 40mm to 90mm only gains 1" of working distance?

    Is focus stacking always necessary when taking macro images?

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    Quote Originally Posted by phnoob View Post
    Coastalconn, thank you very much for taking the time to do that! That really gives me a better idea of what everyone has been talking about regarding the distance.

    So, cgipson1 was saying that a 40mm lens would have to be within about 3" of the object being photographed, and then you show that a 90mm lens needs to be 4" away. So, going up to a focal length of 40mm to 90mm only gains 1" of working distance?

    Is focus stacking always necessary when taking macro images?
    It depends on the subject...subject distance, and the aperture used. The farther away you are from the subject, the greater the DOF! Macro distance have very little DOF, even at very small apertures. Small apertures (F16 and smaller) also start causing diffraction which in turn causes some color changes and softness in the image (some lenses worse than others).

    Focus stacking is merely a good way around the DOF / Diffraction limitations. But for your purposes, you could probably shoot from a little farther away, and then crop the photo down to the subject (quicker and easier than Focus Stacking). But if you wanted the absolute best image you could get... then maximum magnification, a reasonable aperture, and focus stacking would be your best bet.

    Play with this... Online Depth of Field Calculator it might give you some idea of DOF at various focal lengths and distances...
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    Nikon D800 / D7000, R1C1 Macro Flash, SB-900 x2, 14-24 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8, 85 1.4, 50 1.4, 105 2.8 macro, TC20E 2x TC / TC14E 1.4x TC, Monolights, Pocket Wizards, etc.....

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    Quote Originally Posted by phnoob View Post
    .........So, cgipson1 was saying that a 40mm lens would have to be within about 3" of the object being photographed, and then you show that a 90mm lens needs to be 4" away. So, going up to a focal length of 40mm to 90mm only gains 1" of working distance?
    The result of some lenses on macro tubes is the focus point can be inside the lens itself. Rare, but physically possible.


    Quote Originally Posted by phnoob View Post
    Is focus stacking always necessary when taking macro images?
    Depends on many variables, including your reproduction ratio (magnification), the aperture you're using and the depth of the subject. And what aperture you use not only depends on the amount of light you're working under, but certain lenses perform best at a given aperture and suck little green eggs at anything else. Other set-ups perform quite well at smaller apertures (f/22 or f/16), while others will need to basically shoot 'wide open'.
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    As I mentioned in a previous post, I need to take images like these:

    I realize I originally said my budget was about $300, but I have to be able to take photos like those above, so forget that proposed budget..

    I'm way out of my league here, so I'm just going to ask point blank: What would you guys recommend I purchase, as far as the lens and other equipment goes (e.g. lights/flash), to be able to take shots like the above? I really cannot go over $1k, but anything less than that, I may be able to do. If I didn't mention it before, I am using a Nikon D3000.

    Appreciate your advice
    Last edited by phnoob; 07-24-2012 at 06:31 PM.

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    A 105mm Nikkor D lens can be had on the used market for $300-500. Add a couple 200ws strobes on stands, a couple modifiers (light boxes or umbrellas) for another $200-300. A good, solid tripod for another $100-150. And you've still got funds available for a set of macro tubes if you end up needing them.
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    These were probably shot in a lightbox...

    a lightbox http://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-2...words=lightbox El cheapo... I would get a better one.

    3 or 4 Yongnuo 560 flashes http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560...ds=yongnuo+560 You might need some cheap light stands also..

    a used macro lens of your choice $300-$400

    a tripod (if you don't already have one)

    an inexpensive focus rail (if you decide you need to focus stack) http://www.amazon.com/Adorama-Budget...rds=focus+rail

    LOTS OF PRACTICE! lol!
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    cgipson1 - thanks for all of the info. I would love to ask you a few questions about those things if you don't mind.

    Quote Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post
    3 or 4 Yongnuo 560 flashes http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-560...ds=yongnuo+560 You might need some cheap light stands also..
    1. If I purchase a light box, how should the 3 or 4 flashes be positioned?
    2. If I have more than one flash, they can't all be connected to my camera, so how will they know when to go off?
    3. How would I power the flashes if they are not connected to the camera?
    4. Are flashes better than constant lighting, such as natural daylight bulbs?

    Quote Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post
    a used macro lens of your choice $300-$400
    Is is really safe to buy a used lens? Although I have very little experience with photography, it seems like buying a used lens would be a very risky thing. Isn't it likely that it might be scratched?

    Do you think an off-brand lens, such as the Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8, might work as well as a Nikon lens? (that lens new is about the price of the Nikon lenses used..)

    Quote Originally Posted by cgipson1 View Post
    a tripod (if you don't already have one)
    I do have one, but it's pretty terrible. Do you have an inexpensive one that you could recommend?

    Anyone else who feels like chiming in on this stuff is welcome to as well!

    Thanks everyone!

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    2. If I have more than one flash, they can't all be connected to my camera, so how will they know when to go off?
    They will optically trigger each other.

    3. How would I power the flashes if they are not connected to the camera?
    AA Batteries

    4. Are flashes better than constant lighting, such as natural daylight bulbs?
    Depends what you want, but considering you want to take photos with 100% white everywhere, a normal light won't be powerful enough to illuminate the foreground and the background for you

    Is is really safe to buy a used lens? Although I have very little experience with photography, it seems like buying a used lens would be a very risky thing. Isn't it likely that it might be scratched?
    It's relatively safe, just make sure you know the glass isn't scratched before you buy the lens.

    Do you think an off-brand lens, such as the Tamron AF 90mm f/2.8, might work as well as a Nikon lens? (that lens new is about the price of the Nikon lenses used..)
    Yes, that lens is great.
    5D Mark III | EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM | EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS II USM | 180mm f/2.8 APO Macro EX DG OS HSM | 600EX-RT | 190CXPRO3 + 468MGRC2

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    ^^ Exactly!! What he said.

    On the light box and flash placement.. it can vary depending on what you are trying to do... usually right, left and top is enough.. you can do the back to if you are shooting something larger, and want a totally white background.
    Last edited by cgipson1; 07-22-2012 at 03:49 PM.
    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    I'm Charlie! Who are you?

    Nikon D800 / D7000, R1C1 Macro Flash, SB-900 x2, 14-24 2.8, 24-70 2.8, 70-200 2.8, 85 1.4, 50 1.4, 105 2.8 macro, TC20E 2x TC / TC14E 1.4x TC, Monolights, Pocket Wizards, etc.....

    Flickr Images

    500px Images

 

 
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