This is a discussion on Manual vs Auto Focus within the Photography Beginners' Forum & Photo Gallery forums, part of the Foundations of Photography category; Manual focus is not that difficult for me using lenses from 50mm on up to 400mm, especially on a body with a pro-level viewfinder, like ...
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#16 |
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Manual focus is not that difficult for me using lenses from 50mm on up to 400mm, especially on a body with a pro-level viewfinder, like the single-digit Nikons, which have exceptionally clear, crisp viewfinders. I have pretty good results shooting baseball or track and field using the 400/3.5 ED-IF Nikkor, which was designed for action shooting and has a specially designed internal focusing system with two-level,adjustable focus tensioning. The 85/1.4 AF-D, 105mm f/2 AF-D , 135 AF f/2, 180/2.8 ED-AF--all those lenses focus manually quite well. I have difficulty with slow, wide-angle lenses like 24/2.8 or 20mm/2.8.
Modern d-slr camera bodies have viewfinder screens that are optimized for autofocusing; the best way to improve manual focus ascertainment is to install a third party viewfinder screen that has a wider "scatter angle", which will be slightly dimmer than a screen designed to maximize the brightness of slow, kit lenses, but MUCH more-contrasty and better able to show the more-limited depth of field of faster f/2.8 to f/1.4 lenses. Last week I did a pretty extensive search on viewfinder focusing screens. Here's a very simple, basic primer on why factory-stock screens are not optimal for manual focusing. OptiBrite Brightness Enhancement - Katz Eye Optics |
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#17 |
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I spend too much of my life on TPF!
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#18 |
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I gotta make more TPF time!
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-Pugs Nikon D300: - Nikkor 18-55mm AF-S f/3.5-5.6 DX GII - ProMaster 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 - Nikkor 50mm AF f/1.8 D - ProMaster 55-200mm AF f/4-5.6 LD Macro - Nikkor 70-300mm AF f/4-5.6 G - Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DL Macro Super Konica Autoreflex T2 & nT3 - Hexanon 50mm AF f/1.7 - Hexanon 52mm AF f/1.8 - Hexanon 100mm AF f/2.8 - Spiratone 135mm Auto Spira-Tel YS f/2.8 |
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#19 |
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I spend too much of my life on TPF!
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Equipment: Canon Rebel XTi 70-300 IS USM Canon Lens 15-55mm Canon, 70-300mm APO DG Sigma BG-E3 Battery Grip, 430 Ex II Cheap Tripod/Cheap Monopod Too many rechargable batteries
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#20 |
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I gotta make more TPF time!
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Blech... That's what I get for getting distracted in the middle of composing a reply...
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-Pugs Nikon D300: - Nikkor 18-55mm AF-S f/3.5-5.6 DX GII - ProMaster 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 - Nikkor 50mm AF f/1.8 D - ProMaster 55-200mm AF f/4-5.6 LD Macro - Nikkor 70-300mm AF f/4-5.6 G - Sigma 70-300mm f/4-5.6 DL Macro Super Konica Autoreflex T2 & nT3 - Hexanon 50mm AF f/1.7 - Hexanon 52mm AF f/1.8 - Hexanon 100mm AF f/2.8 - Spiratone 135mm Auto Spira-Tel YS f/2.8 |
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#21 |
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Without a split-image screen, manual focusing is very difficult for everyone, regardless of how good your eyes are. That's because your eyes can easily focus in front of or behind the screen and you never really know where your image is focused. Manual focus is a fun change if you enjoy tinkering, but only with the split-image. For anything action related, forget it. Manual focusing is extremely difficult.
Also, using the green lamp focusing aid is foolish as you get the same results as auto-focus. The only difference is that your hand, instead of a motor, moves the lens focus mechanism.
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