14 questions needed answered

BruceLee

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Hi, I'm new to Photography, was wondering if any experts out there could help me out on these questions.

1. How do you check to see if the film is actually going through the camera after you put in a new roll?

2. Which step(of the ten) in developing film is critical?

3. And what are the (three) critical measures?

4. How do changes in these (above) effect the film?

5. List the F-Stops normally found on the average lens, in order (but not for a Zoom lens).

6. Which F-Stop lets in the most light?

7. What shutter speeds can you use for hand-held camera use?

8. What shutter speeds can you use with an electronic flash? How do you determine that for your camera?

9. What determines how much light reaches the film?(I think there are three things)

10. What should you avoid metering?(at least two examples)

11. What sort of thing would be best to meter in a subject?

12. If your camera's meter suggests F-16 at 1/500th of a second, what additional f-stop and shutter-speed combinations wiill let in the same amount of light?

13. If you want the background out of focus (example, for a portrait), what f-stop(s) might you select?

14. (For Above) What else could be done to keep the background out of focus?
 
sounds like somebody's taking a school test and looking for the answers...lol
 
If you could please help me out, I've read the book but I can't figure these out.
 
BruceLee said:
If you could please help me out, I've read the book but I can't figure these out.

this is photography 101 stuff. if you can't find the answers in the book that you have, you'll have much difficulty going beyond this.
 
Thanks, so I'm guessing you can effortlessly answer these questions? Please help me out?
 
sure; i'll help you if you help me.

what effects does the philosophy of Camus have on the dynamic cognitive processes of humans? i've been toiling over that all day.
 
dynamic cognitive processes of humans

Not sure if you applied that correctly, nevertheless I'll attempt to help you.

Camus insisted that man is too far apart from his life, an alien to his own existence. The effect on "dynamic cognitive processes of humans" is simple, man is in pursuit to free himself from God, to declare true independence.

Now please, take a minute of your philosophicaly burdened time and help a fellow student out. I need these answers by tonight.
 
BruceLee said:
dynamic cognitive processes of humans

Not sure if you applied that correctly, nevertheless I'll attempt to help you.

Camus insisted that man is too far apart from his life, an alien to his own existence. The effect on "dynamic cognitive processes of humans" is simple, man is in pursuit to free himself from God, to declare true independence.

Now please, take a minute of your philosophicaly burdened time and help a fellow student out. I need these answers by tonight.


:lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: :lmao:

md
 
Md means? :?

I was under the impression looking for help on a photography forum site would be most pertinent, not quite sure why I'm having difficulties obtaining diligent responses. From what I've gathered from the responses I did receive, this stuff is like ABCs to you guys, why the lack of help?
 
1. With an older style mechanical 35mm SLR the rewind knob should rotate as the film is advanced. Modern electronic auto-focus 35mm SLRs and medium format SLRs normally won't function if the film is not advancing properly.

2. Developer, if I have to pick one.

3. Temperature, concentration, time, and agitation.

4. More temp, more concentration, more time, more agitation usually results in more contrast and a denser neg. Less of these things results in the opposite.

5. f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22

6. f/2

7. the rule of thumb is to use a shutter speed that is the reciprocal of the focal length or faster

8. For a focal plane shutter you need to be at the flash sync speed or slower. This is usually moreked on the shutter speed dial, and it's in the manual. Leaf shutters sync at all shutter speeds.

9. Shutter speed = time and aperture (f/stop) = intensity

10. Things that are very light or very dark, unless you understand how your meter works, and then you'd have no problem.

11. The most important thing. Hopefully it's middle gray. :wink:

12. f/4@1/8000 = f/5.6@1/4000 = f/8@1/2000 = f/11@1/1000 = f/16@1/500 = f/22@1/250

13. f/2

14. Use a longer focal length or decrease subject to camera distance.
 
BruceLee said:
I am very greatful to you Matt, you are a true Human 8)

You still need to know and understand at least some of this stuff if you are an aspiring photog.
 
I can answer some of these. However, some can have different answers depending on how you learn photography, and the answer you need will only be in the book or your notes or whatever your information source is. But here are the answers to the ones I can give you fairly definite answers for.

1) (assuming you're using an SLR), you can tell that the film is in properly if the rewind wheel rotates when you advance your film.

5) I'll tell you that this does vary from lens to lens, mostly varying by the highest and lowest f-stops that will be on there. But, some common f-stops that you should find on most lenses are f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, and f/22. The question says "in order," but it does not specify what order. These are listed from most open to least open

6) Whatever the lowest f/stop number on your lens is will let in the most light. Yes, it's counterintuitive. The lower the number, the more light. So in the list above, it would be f/2.

9) The first thing is the aperture size. The aperture size basically determines how much light can reach the film. It's like the iris in your eye. This is controlled by the f-stop.
Second is the shutter speed. This is controlled by the shutter speed dial. It controls the amount of time that the film is exposed to light.
Third is the ISO (a.k.a the ASA) rating of your film. This determines how sensitive the film is to light. A more sensitive piece of film can expose the same if it is exposed for less time or with a smaller aperture than with a less sensitive piece of film.

12) All of these will expose the film the same amount:
f/22 at 1/250th, 1/16 at 1/500th, f/11 at 1/1000th, f/8 at 1/2000th (if your camera can do anything above 1/1000th), f/5.6 at 1/4000th (1/4000th is getting pretty fast though), and you should be able to get the pattern by now. Open the aperture one stop (lower the f/stop), and halve the shutter speed.

13) Anything from f/2 to f/4 or f/5.6, or maybe even up to f/8, depending on how far away the background is.
 

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