6-month exposure

I think the OP understands the difference between a sensor and film.

Anyways, I think it is quite marvelous. I wonder how many times he went past it hoping that nothing had gone out of place - imagine if a bird built a nest in front of it, or a wasp nest or something. Ack!
 
I think the OP understands the difference between a sensor and film.

Anyways, I think it is quite marvelous. I wonder how many times he went past it hoping that nothing had gone out of place - imagine if a bird built a nest in front of it, or a wasp nest or something. Ack!


I read an article about this photographer, i think he placed about 10 or more
 
what? seriously, no one has C&C of this? j/k

we did pinhole cameras when i studied architecture. it was one of the most exciting thing we ever did. It seems like its really hard to screw up a photo when done with a pinhole camera.

Apparently a student a few years before us had done a 8-12 hour exposure overnight of one of the prettier buildings on our campus. Never got to see it, but heard it was amazing.
 
clifton_solargraph_1118714c.jpg


That's pretty amazing. Image quality is weak, as to be expected... but a cool experiment.
 
so how does one do long exposures during the day without the picture being completely blown out? I tried to do like a 15 second exposure on something and it was completely white. Given it was during the day and I should've figured it would...

so what do i need to do?
 
I think this picture is excellent for teaching astronomy and how the Earth and Sun move..
 
so how does one do long exposures during the day without the picture being completely blown out? I tried to do like a 15 second exposure on something and it was completely white. Given it was during the day and I should've figured it would...

so what do i need to do?
Its all about aperture
 
I'm doing it at f1.8. But it's still blown out.

I think you have it backwards. Me thinks you should be about f/32..... f/1.8 is for dark scenes.. You want to set it at a higher stop so that the light soaks into the sensor slowly. I think... Higher numbers for longer shutter times.
 
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You should be about f/32..... f/1.8 is for dark scenes.. You want to set it for dark scenes so that the light soaks into the sensor slowly. I think...

im an idiot. you're good. i thought that you would want the aperture to be faster so it closes up faster. but then that contradicts getting a fast lens for better shots in low light. i have a lot to learn...so someone explain to me why the bigger the f-stop the less light comes through?
 
im an idiot. you're good. i thought that you would want the aperture to be faster so it closes up faster. but then that contradicts getting a fast lens for better shots in low light. i have a lot to learn...so someone explain to me why the bigger the f-stop the less light comes through?

The number can be remembered as how much of the lens is covered by the aperture blades-of course that's not what it means, but it's true. At f/22 there's only a tiny hole for light to come through (bigger number, more coverage of the lens-22 of it is covered), hence "slow" aperture.. It would take a long time for light to fill the sensor through a small hole.. At f/1/8, only a small portion of the lens is covered by the aperture blades (only 1.8 of it is covered), resulting in a very large hole for light to come through, hence "fast". Think of filling a bucket of water through your aperture hole-at f/22, very small hole, very slow filling of the bucket, but at f/1.8, very large hole and "fast" filling of the bucket..

Of course this is not what the numbers mean, but it holds true for remembering the inverse of the numbers compared to the hole size.


Watch this video.

The video starts out with the lens at a low aperture, say, 1.4, and he closes it down to, say, f/22 and then opens it back up again..
 
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The number can be remembered as how much of the lens is covered by the aperture blades-of course that's not what it means, but it's true. At f/22 there's only a tiny hole for light to come through, hence "slow" aperture.. It would take a long time for light to fill the sensor through a small hole.. At f/1/8, only a small portion of the lens is covered by the aperture blades, resulting in a very large hole for light to come through, hence "fast". Think of filling a bucket of water through your aperture hole-at f/22, very small hole, very slow filling of the bucket, but at f/1.8, very large hole and "fast" filling of the bucket..

Nice, so how does that relate to depth of field then? you would think that a deep DOF would require more of the lens exposed (which means low F number), right? but that's not the case...
 
Nice, so how does that relate to depth of field then? you would think that a deep DOF would require more of the lens exposed (which means low F number), right? but that's not the case...

Think of it like this:

Everything in a shot wants to send its details to the camera once the shutter opens..

Depth of field relies on how close or far away something is to the subject that your are focusing on, right? And light does travel at a speed.. So with a 1.8 lens, you will use very fast shutter speeds, so you focus on something close to your camera, right? Then you snap the shutter.. It's FAST-the sensor gets all the light it needs very quickly, so the things that are further away, or not optimally focused on don't have time to get their details to the sensor before the shutter closes, so they appear blurry.. With a higher aperture (slower, maybe f/22), you keep the shutter open longer because you're filling the sensor with light very slowly through a small hole, so everything in view has time to get its details to the sensor before the shutter closes.. Make sense?

I like to think simply.

Here's another helper:

aperture.gif
 
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