Amateur Night Club Photography (60D+430ex II)

Valeriy

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Hi folks!

I'm a huge fan of night photography of landscapes, I now also want to start out with night club photography (since I already spend so much time at clubs, bars, and discos).

But since night shots of landscapes need a tripod an long exposure, I'm unsure about the settings for night club photography because it has to be much quicker.

My current setup includes:
Canon EOS 60D
Canon EF 50mm f/1.4
Canon EF-S 18-135mm
Canon Speedlite 430ex II

Since I obviously need a wide angle lens, the Kit 18-135mm has to do it for now. Later on (when $ comes in again), I want to get either a Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L or Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8, what do you think and suggest?

Back to the original question, will the 18-135mm cut it for right now? It's all about lighting and less about sharpness.On which setting should I shoot? And which flash settings?

Thanks,

-Val
 
You'll have better luck in nightclubs with the 50 f1.4 than the 18-135. In general, the dimmer the lighting, the faster lens you'll need. Although you can crank up the ISO speed to help compensate for a slow lens, I've found that higher than 1600 gets noiser than I like on my 60D.

I used to have the 18-135 myself and found it was a great lens, until I got indoors with it. It was then flash for everything. I was using a 550 EX at the time, so I had more than enough light for what I wanted. I just had to learn to control the glare, etc. However, in a dimly lit and/or multi-color lit nightclub/stage, a flash might wash-out the lighting effects thus losing some of the ambiance of the scene.

But since you have what you have, it costs nothing (other than club related costs) to try it out and look at the results. So go and try it out. One note, though - you'll have to take it out of "Auto" and "Program" and start with Av and Tv shooting to get the results you're looking for.

Edit: One more thing...if you can take a monopod with you, great! If not, practice leaning against walls/posts/tables to steady the camera. IS is good to have, but at slower shutter speeds, you need camera stability even more!
 
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For nightclubs, you'd be better off with Canon's 28mm f/1.8 or, if you really want to spend some bucks, their 24mm f/1.4.
 
I have to politely disagree with both the above posters, you do not need a fast prime for nightclub photography. The most important thing is a good external flash which you already have. The next most important thing will be an off camera TTL cord so you can shoot one handed and aim the flash at people with the other, so you can get images like this:
http://www.asecretaffair.org/nightclub-photography-1.jpg

The crucial skill you will have to master, apart from being able to interact with wasted people, is how to balance ambient and strobed lighting. It's actually not that hard, you just use a long shutter speed (~1s) and let the lights in the background blur and move with your camera shake to create a sense of craziness, while the subjects are lit sharply and in one burst by the flash. Like this:
http://nightlifextion.com/Photos/ForumPix/February02a.jpg
When doing this I usually just put the camera in Av mode, something like f/4 and ISO400 usually works and just shoot, making minor adjustments as I go to lengthen or shorten the shutter speed as desired.
 
Also, when you drag the shutter (as explained above) you can create interesting effects by moving the camera in a certain way during the exposure, for example rotating it: (1s, ISO400, f/4.5, 18mm, 430EX in hotshoe)
1200776828_ajwKs-M.jpg



Or moving it in a wave pattern: (2s, ISO800, f/10, 17mm)

1200777764_K52WE-M.jpg


Zooming in from wide to telephoto: (1/3s, f/6.3, ISO800 17-15mm)
1200777834_piQME-M.jpg
 
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Shooting night club with flash on would be a hassle so it's better to shoot with your 50mm 1.4 as it's absolutely brilliant for indoors & low light. If you're planning to shoot landscape at night then get a tripod and try shooting long exposures with your EFS 18-135.

The gadgets you got in your backpack are enough at the moment. Later if you're willing to spend some serious bucks then go for wide angle "L" series primes (i.e: 24mm, 35mm) instead of third party manufacturers.
 
I guess its all down to the club. If they allow flash (rear curtain sync is your friend) great, you can use a slower lens and flash. If they don't allow flash you will have to use a faster lens. Either way you seem to have the kit to at least get you out there trying some ideas out.
 
Fokker's advice is spot on. In this case, don't worry about a new lens.... just worry about light. Rear curtain sync and finding the sweet spot between ambient and off camera flash exposure will give excellent results with a nice combination of crispness and movement.
 

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