An Imam, a Rabbi and a Priest

[JimmyAtlantis]

How often do you see the 3 together? C&C welcome and appreciated.

EXIF: 1/320, f8, 33mm, ISO 200. Equipment: Canon 350D, 18-55mm kit.

I ran it through Photoshop because the faces were a little underexposed. I masked the sky and left it as is. I copied the original to a new layer and changed the new layer to screen mode. I am pleased with the final product, but it's hard to judge your own work. I need to hear what others think. Thanks for looking!

 

[mysteryscribe]

First of all let me say, I was waiting for the 'walked into a bar....'

about the picture. This is a personal thing but I always like to see more light on the faces. It is after all what the picture is about... Im sure you used a fill flash, if not you should consider it in almost all cases. Especially when you shoot people out doors for the shot, not the effect of the light. Ie most wedding and portraits even photo snaps. If you are shooting for the light that is a different story.

If I don't have a flash, as in my case with retro these days, I always expose for the darkest part of the face and pretty scenery be damned. People usually want good shots of themselves, not the garden, though the ideal to have both. If I must choose I go for the people everytime.

This is just my opinion. Probably worth less than a single piece of film

 

[Jeff Canes]

I don’t like the crop being so tight under the rabbi’s chin

 

[JimmyAtlantis]

I don’t like the crop being so tight under the rabbi’s chin

He's short. I wanted a 900x300. The right side is the actual edge of the photo. The left side had a gap between the Imam's arm and the edge and I thought cropping at full width made it look uneven due to said gap on the left side. Suggestions?

 

[Jeff Canes]

--Suggestions?

Other that platform shoes, No

 

[JimmyAtlantis]

First of all let me say, I was waiting for the 'walked into a bar....'

about the picture. This is a personal thing but I always like to see more light on the faces. It is after all what the picture is about... Im sure you used a fill flash, if not you should consider it in almost all cases. Especially when you shoot people out doors for the shot, not the effect of the light. Ie most wedding and portraits even photo snaps. If you are shooting for the light that is a different story.

If I don't have a flash, as in my case with retro these days, I always expose for the darkest part of the face and pretty scenery be damned. People usually want good shots of themselves, not the garden, though the ideal to have both. If I must choose I go for the people everytime.

This is just my opinion. Probably worth less than a single piece of film

I didn't use the flash and all I have is the built-in. I'm not yet familiar enough with my camera to adjust the exposure properly for a flash. I've only had it for about a week and it's my first SLR. I also haven't read much of the book. I've pretty much been figuring out everything as I go.

Also an explanation on how to set the exposure for - as we're talking about - the faces. I'm thinking fill the frame with the face and set exposure? Any help I can get is needed and much appreciated.

 

[mysteryscribe]

Okay here is how us old timers did it then a quick how to with modern camera that are equiped for it.

Old school. I used this sunday so it still works lol... take a hand held meter and read the light about three inches from the darkest spot on the face then if the exposure is close to the rest of the frame use it.. If it is much different average it between the two.

On a modern camera with exposure lock just fill the frame with the darkest part of the face lock the exposure then reframe and shoot.

I'm not all that familier with how the fill flash works on modern cameras so you should consult your camera info manual... however on a old school camera you checked the exposure without considering the flash, then checked the flash guide number and set the camera for the strongest light. At least thats how I was taught. Sometimes your flash over rides the natural light and sometimes the natural light is stronger. You want to go with the best exposure. That's old school..... Im told a lot of people these days just set for fill flash and ignore it. The camera will compensate I guess.

Mark and some of the others will know better than me. Take a look at the retros I shot to see how exposing for the darkest part works out in my stuff. It is not how people shoot picture today but it will prevent the shadows on faces usually. But with digital you can't correct for the burnout it can also cause on the bright side. Its a toss up and probably harder now.

Now if I explained this wrong trust what the real guys tell you I'm pretty far out of date...

I took a dodging brush IE spot lightening tool to the faces and they can be repaired very well that way on this particular print. You were close enough to the right exposure that the details are just hidden under the shadows.

It also makes them look about ten years younger and less sinister...

 

[JimmyAtlantis]

I took a dodging brush IE spot lightening tool to the faces and they can be repaired very well that way on this particular print. You were close enough to the right exposure that the details are just hidden under the shadows.

It also makes them look about ten years younger and less sinister...

Feel free to post it :thumbup: I've decided I'm going to get an 18% grey card and soon enough a decent light meter.

 

[mysteryscribe]

I spent less than five minutes on this so it could be better. Some of the other people here can do a lot better im sure. This was just a quick look at it.

 

[mysteryscribe]

I also did a freehand gamma change

YOu can be as subtle as you want of course... I tend to be a little drastic.

 

[JimmyAtlantis]

In a case such as this whos face would I want to use to set my exposure/who holds the gray card?

 

[mysteryscribe]

if you use a grey card you are reading the card and not anyones face. It really wouldn't matter whose face you read if you just read the face. You are acutally reading hte shadow area not the face. The shadow area should be about the same on all of them.

 

[mysteryscribe]

If your camera has exposure lock, the easiest thing to do would be to just zoom in on the shadow area, then lock the exposure back out and shoot it.

If not set it on manual, if you have that, zoom in meter the shadow set the camera then zoom out and compose it. Thats really about as easy as it gets. I don't discourage grey cards but I never used one for my own work. I did once, but I was shooting for the police department and they needed it for color corrections. They processed and printed their own film and it was 1970ish..

If not that then in heavy situations use your + - exposure compensation. One to two stops more exposure should do it.

Fill flash is an easier option when you have it though.