Any Underwater Photographers Here On TPF?

[Raj_55555]

I have been saving for my underwater kit for a while, and was about to go for the D7000+ikelite housing for my scuba diving needs, budget for the housing around 1800 US$.

Amazon Link

And along comes a fellow diver who highlighted that for about 130 US$ I can get a housing for a Sony A6000/6300. Mind blown, and now I'm wondering whether that will be a good idea. Looking for some opinion, even if the chances are less.

Amazon Link

 

[dxqcanada]

Not sure if there are any active people here that do serious underwater photography.

That Neewer housing I think is made by Meikon 40M Waterproof Underwater Camera Housing Case Bag for Sony A6000 Camera compatibale with 16-50mm lens | www.meikestore.com
I had a Meikon housing for my NEX-5 and now my NEX-6 ... but I have not taken either down to any depth (as I have not dived in years ... maybe one day again). I read over many reviews from UW forums about this manufacturer and it was favourable ... I think they even have a wet wide angle dome port for it.

 

[dxqcanada]

Sony A6000 / A6300 meikon housing review

 

[Raj_55555]

Wonderful.. that link really answered a lot of questions for me. Thank you Dennis!
I think I will go with this option, also now the A6500 is to be announce, 6300 will be available for cheap soon. Will grab that deal.

 

[petrochemist]

I'd be very cautious of using a budget hosing with a good camera. Any leaks & you need a new camera...
One of my friends is seriously into scuba photography, jetting off several times a year with ~45lbs of camera gear!
Preparing for a dive is not a quick exercise, and the right lens has to be picked before anything else - macro, UWA or fisheye all have different ports. Often even the macro lens needs an auxiliary, but at least these are wet mounted so can be switched during the dive. the assembled camera/housing/port etc. is always given a pressure test prior to going into the water.

On one of his trips someone had a seal fail at the start of the week on an expensive DSLR housing. Leaving them on a dive boat for the rest of the week without a working camera - even the cost of the replacement camera may have paled in comparison to that!

IMO if funds are limited a rugged P&S type camera is a better bet. I grabbed a camera sold with a dedicated housing when I saw it for sale end of line (£35 for camera & housing) it's adequate for snorkeling, but even so the seals need careful maintenance.

 

[Braineack]

I had a coworker who is a diver -- in the 5 years I worked with him I saw his photography really take off once he mastered flash underwater. I literally JUST took his card out of my wallet this morning else I'd add the link.

 

[pixmedic]

cant you just zip tie a plastic bag around the camera?

 

[davholla]

Whatever you do, do a test dive with some tissue paper in the housing first to see if it leaks.

 

[Nwcid]

I know I am behind the curve here, but I am a fairly active unwatered photographer.

Like with anything else in photography, what are you wanting to shoot, how are you wanting it to turn out, how much are you willing to spend and last but not least how much effort do you want it to be.

A P&S camera in a basic housing will be relatively inexpensive, quick and easy to use, minimal weight, but is limited in the kind of images it can capture. Even the GoPro is a popular option and it can do some nice things.

Going to a DSLR gets expensive fast. I see you linked a housing, but that does not include the port also needed, strobe(s), strobe arms, cables to fire strobe(s), focus light. Then you have many seals that need to be properly maintained, because a leak likely means damaging your camera and lens which equals $$$. They are large and heavy to travel with, mine is 22.5 lbs.

With that said, I love my DSLR underwater. Our last dive trip our luggage did not make it to us until the 4th night. I had my camera with me and had packed all my batteries in my carry on. I am able to get by on rental dive gear (not preferred), but I can not rent a DSLR in most places.

When I first started diving I thought I was going to get a UW housing for my Nikon D90, then like you I priced things and found out I was not What I ended up doing was finding a used D70 in a UW housing with strobes and a 10.5 mm fisheye for a great deal. I shot it for almost 2 years. Then I found a deal on better strobes, so I added those and sold the old ones. About a year later I found a used D90 housing and sold the old housing. I am still using the same port after about 6 years now.
I shoot mostly with a 60 mm macro but also still have the 10.5 mm fisheye and use it some.

Here is a link to my albums, feel free to look around. I have lots of diving stuff on there.
John Nokes

 

[Raj_55555]

Awesome.. thank you everyone. About 6 months late I know, but I decided to take all your advice into consideration, and went for a point and shoot, but among the best one I could get since IQ was a big deal for me. I also got a strobe (basic TTL for now) to go with it as @Braineack suggested.

I got a sony rx100V+ fantasea housing and sea&sea ys-03 strobe + a macro wet lens.
I'm still tinkering with the results, and will be able to test it in July on my trip to Bali. Thanks all for your help!

 

[Braineack]

this is how he told me he lights underwater:

otherwise, youre going to light up all the sedament and junk in front of the subject.

 

[JoeW]

Not sure what you're interested in shooting underwater. But here are a couple of links I've saved as references:

Underwater Photography Tips

Underwater Model Photography

https://petapixel.com/2014/03/26/eight-essential-underwater-photography-tips-sarah-lee/

https://www.nationalgeographic.com/photography/photo-tips/underwater-photography-tips/

Split Photography Tips: A View Of Two Worlds - Underwater Photography - Backscatter

 

[Raj_55555]

this is how he told me he lights underwater:

View attachment 159311

otherwise, youre going to light up all the sedament and junk in front of the subject.

Yes, backscatter is an issue. I've done tons of research by now and I think I'm prepared. But will really know once I'm down in the water. Theoretically sounds easy enough, just ensure light doesn't hit the particles between the subject and the lens port.

Not sure what you're interested in shooting underwater. But here are a couple of links I've saved as references:

Underwater Photography Tips

Underwater Model Photography

https://petapixel.com/2014/03/26/eight-essential-underwater-photography-tips-sarah-lee/

Underwater Photography – Photo Tips – National Geographic

Split Photography Tips: A View Of Two Worlds - Underwater Photography - Backscatter

Thanks Joe, I'll have a look at all of them

 

[Nwcid]

Backscatter can usually be controlled, with practice. Also depend on your dive location and conditions, will effect the amount of backscatter.

The #1 easiest way to get ride of backscatter, is get closer to you subject. The closer you are, the less stuff in-between you and the subject, equals less backscatter. #2 if you have lots of sediment in the water, not firing your strobes straight at your subject. Think about headlights into a snow storm. Often your strobe firing from above or from the side will give you better results.

Also going with dual strobes, especially ones that you can adjust the power on, will help reduce backscatter.

I am in Maui right now and will get posting pics again starting tomorrow.

 

[Raj_55555]

Thanks @Nwcid ! I will keep that in mind.

There's something that I'm not able to find an answer to though. My YS03 works on TTL via an optical fiber. I understand that means my internal flash has to fire for my strobe to work.
Here's the question, does the power of the internal flash decide the power of the strobe?

Or is it that I can just keep the internal flash as a fill flash to save battery consumption, and my strobe will work with the same power in each shot?