Anyone have this lens?

I think i saw someone asking for help on this before. Ill do some research and see if i can find it for you.
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I have the 105mm f/2.8 and it's a blast to use.

I think 60mm would be okay for static subjects, but a bit on the short end for working distance with live critters. Apparently the new 85mm f/3.5 is supposed to be good. I've only seen hit and miss chatter about it and I'm not interested since I'm set with my macro. I think both of these are DX lenses. The 105mm is FX.
 
Nope, 60 is FX, all depends on what you want to use it for. Live, go for atleast the 105, otherwise, the 60 is fine.
 
I bought the version before this one, the 60mm f/2.8 AF-D, which has a bunch of different features, like a deeply-recessed front element instead of one that is perched right out front, plus the older lens has a mechanical aperture ring on it. The deeply recessed front element on the older 60mm Micro~Nikkor acts almost like a lens hood, both protecting the front element from accidental impacts and also shielding it from light coming in at grazing angles, which is what causes most lens flare and ghosting problems.

The 60mm as a close-up lens is best for flat-field work on things like copying documents or artwork, or doing close-up work of specimens of one type of another. The working distance on a 60mm is awfully close if the subject is "alive",and is not a flower or plant! I prefer a longer macro lens, 90,105,or 180mm, for most uses, but I got a too-good-to-pass-up offer on a new 60mm from custom knife maker Darrel Ralph Untitled Document
some years ago, when I was giving him lessons on how to photograph the beautiful knives he designs and makes.
 
I bought the version before this one, the 60mm f/2.8 AF-D, which has a bunch of different features, like a deeply-recessed front element instead of one that is perched right out front, plus the older lens has a mechanical aperture ring on it. The deeply recessed front element on the older 60mm Micro~Nikkor acts almost like a lens hood, both protecting the front element from accidental impacts and also shielding it from light coming in at grazing angles, which is what causes most lens flare and ghosting problems.

The 60mm as a close-up lens is best for flat-field work on things like copying documents or artwork, or doing close-up work of specimens of one type of another. The working distance on a 60mm is awfully close if the subject is "alive",and is not a flower or plant! I prefer a longer macro lens, 90,105,or 180mm, for most uses, but I got a too-good-to-pass-up offer on a new 60mm from custom knife maker Darrel Ralph Untitled Document
some years ago, when I was giving him lessons on how to photograph the beautiful knives he designs and makes.

Thanks! I was planning be be able to use it on my snake and 90mm 105mm and 180mm just seem really far away. I free handle snakes so range is not a problem lol.
 
If you're working inside with a holdable snake (and most snakes are quite large by macro standards) then the 60mm might be a better bet than a longer lens. I know myself that I prefer my 70mm over 150mm when working with more constrained indoors situations. That said nothing beats the 150mm for range when hunting after bugs outside.
 

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