Aperture priority question

puyjapin

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Hi, could someone please explain while im trying to get to grips with all this stuff !!:blushing:
When in Aperture priority this allows the f stop to be changed to alter DOF hence i tend to use this for landscapes. But as the exposure can be altered by 1/3 stop incriments this obviously has an effect on the shutter speed. So effectively what is the difference in using A mode opposed to full Manual where both can be altered?:blushing:
thanks
 
In Aperture-Priority mode, you just set the aperture and the camera sets the shutter speed accordingly. In full manual, you have to set it all. I use Aperture and Shutter-Priority when I want to specifically change either the DOF or how motion appears (SS). Its just another way to be creative and take control of your photography without going full manual.

Hope this helps.
 
In manual mode you are controlling everything. Anything not set by you is left to the camera based on default settings.

In AP mode, the same generally applies EXCEPT for the Shutter Speed which is controlled by the camera. The problem with this is, for a beginner - and some "pros" - the camera can easily be fooled by what it is "seeing", so - especially with landscape photography - it might be better to work in full manual, so that you can adjust your settings without worrying about your subject going anywhere.
 
The difference is that in aperture priority mode the camera will automatically adjust your shutter speed to attain correct exposure whilst leaving your aperture and ISO fixed - its good when your wanting to shoot at a set aperture in changing lighting conditions.
Of course you can use exposure compensation to tell the camera to under or overexpose a shot which will affect its selection of a shutter speed to attain the "correct" over/under exosure.

In the end no matter what mode you are in the settings (if the same) will have the same effect.
 
As the others have already said...set the aperture when DOF is your prority, and shutter speed is of lesser importance.

In normal light you may see little difference, but in lower light any movement may become blurred. This is rarely a problem in landscape and still-life shots.

Pay attention to what in the scene may cause the exposure to become less than optimal...use the compensation or switch to manual to manage this. Pay attention to the camera monitor result and especially when you have a chance to upload and examine your results on a computer. You´ll work this out better with time and practice...just learn from the theory and the practice!
 
ok think i get it, if in aperture mode the shutter is selected automatically but can technically be manually overridden by adjusting the exposure?
 
ok think i get it, if in aperture mode the shutter is selected automatically but can technically be manually overridden by adjusting the exposure?
Huh? Exposure is the combination of aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Are you speaking of adjusting the Exposure Compensation?
 
ok think i get it, if in aperture mode the shutter is selected automatically but can technically be manually overridden by adjusting the exposure?

Yep.... use the dial that gives you the + or - effect.
Use the + if the scene has a high brightness or whiteness value
and the - if it´s effect is to be dark

Just try a few tests...for example: photograph a dark-skinned person against a black background...try the whole range and note the exposures and correct them...eventually you will see how to do that while you shoot. Some scenes will change so fast you will have no time to think...it has to become intuitive!
 
yes the exposure compensation, when i set an apeture and adjust the exp comp it has an effect on the shutter speed in aperture mode so in effect its affectiong the shutter as well?
 
You set (actually FIX) aperture when in aperture priority.

Using the compensating dial changes ONLY the shutter speed.
 
but its possible to fix the apeture and shutter in manual so if shooting in aperture but overriding the exp comp , thus changing the shutter speed you are effectively using manual anyway?? the a mode chooses a shutterspeed in accordance with your selected aperture...to allow for the meter reading i assume so anthing other than average will require a manual exp compensation hence the shutter speed is not being selected automatically so may as well be in manual???
 
But the difference is in the speed. Shooting in full manual where you have to set the settings is slower than letting the camera do it for you.
Lets say your after a certain depth of field - so you aperture is fix - and you only want a max level of noise, so your ISO is fixed - leaving shutter speed as the variable factor. Now if your shooting something fast, like a car, wildlife, birds the subject could go through a range of different lighting conditions very quickly requiring you to adjust the shutter speed to get the "correct" exposure as shown by your camera meter - that might miss you the shot.
Aperture priority mode has the camera set the shutter speed for you as soon as the lighting changes conditions - thus meaning you can concentrate on the subject.

For landscapes its probably not a mode you will use too much since your lighting won't change too fast and your subject is static - ergo you have time to set the settings to what you want them to be..
 
ok, so im looking out the front of my house today, thick frost & fog, mostly trees and fields but the sun is behind the fog making the sky very white....how would i set up for this as it seems whatever i do im getting blown highlights in the sky and the foreground is too dark, thx
 
ok, so im looking out the front of my house today, thick frost & fog, mostly trees and fields but the sun is behind the fog making the sky very white....how would i set up for this as it seems whatever i do im getting blown highlights in the sky and the foreground is too dark, thx

Exposure is a topic of brightness, while this topic is talking about contrast.

Your problem is, the sky is too bright while the foreground is too dark. If you're using a DSLR, you could try choosing a low contrast tone from menu. You can also use something like Photoshop to adjust the curve or level. Just make an exposure to show highlight as you like, then use Photoshop to keep highlight as it is and lighten the dark.

If you're using film SLR, it's something complex. You can use low contrast film such as Fuji Reala negative film (do not use high contrast reversal film). If you do film/photo development by yourself, you can make a little longer exposure and shorten a little time in developing. This helps lower the contrast.

However, no matter you're using DSLR or FSLR, if the contrast is too high, there's no way to record both highlight and dark details on one piece of film or CCD/CMOS.
 
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