best results for tri-x

Discussion in 'The Darkroom' started by thebeginning, Oct 19, 2005.

  1. thebeginning

    thebeginning TPF Noob!

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    i read a guy say that he gets the best results with his tri-x shot at ISO 320, not 400. have yall heard of that before? If you do that, do you still develop the same as if it was 400?
     
  2. BadRotation

    BadRotation TPF Noob!

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    I dont know, but tri-x is pretty fool proof... First few rolls I did, I didnt realise I had ALL the chemicals mixed completely wrong, and they still came out really good.
     
  3. AbsenceOfColor

    AbsenceOfColor TPF Noob!

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    While I was in college, at the Univ of Southern Miss, my photo instructor had told us about shooting Tri-X Pro at the 320 ISO. He told us that he had used this setting for years and it yielded the best grain results with that setting. His prints were always fantastic. Towards the end of my studies there, I helped him with a lot of his printing. It always came down to the same formula: 11x14 prints, No. 3 filter, 36 seconds of exposure time. Now if all of my printing could have been so consistantÂ… lol! What can you do?:er:
     
  4. Hertz van Rental

    Hertz van Rental TPF Noob!

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    Pro Tri-X used to be rated at 320ISO.
    The results you get depend entirely upon subject conditions, though, so you'll be OK shooting it at 400. Trixie is very forgiving.
     
  5. santino

    santino TPF Noob!

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    at normal contrast I rate it at 200 and develop 1:1 in D76 for 10 mimnutes.
     
  6. thebeginning

    thebeginning TPF Noob!

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    i'll agree that 'trixie' is quite forgiving. I'll mostly use tri-x for a 1600 film, now that i've discovered fine grain film :) thanks for the suggestions!
     
  7. nealjpage

    nealjpage multi format master in a film geek package

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    But IF it were shot at 320, are the development times changed accordingly or do I develop it the same time/temp as 400?
     
  8. Hertz van Rental

    Hertz van Rental TPF Noob!

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    If you change exposure and development what you are doing is playing with the characteristic curve of the film.
    The published ISO and dev time is designed in principle to give 'normal' negs with 'normal' contrast - that is to handle a 7 stop exposure range and print 'normally' on to Grade 2.
    In reality there are quite a few factors within the whole process that affect the outcome. These can be compensated for with exposure/development. But if you do not understand what is going on it is best to follow the manufacturers instructions or you could experience problems.
    That aside, by down-rating the ISO you are under-exposing the film. This has to be compensated for by increasing development. The general result is to increase the contrast of the neg which means that if your subject lighting is normal then your negs may come out too contrasty.

    *I have all the sensitometric data for Tri-X and Plus-X with adjustment tables and graphs to compensate for subject contrast changes - and to adjust for other variables in the system.
    I will be posting them up once I can get the graphs to work. At the moment they are coming out fuzzy and are useless.
    Be patient.
     

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