Camera angles and lenses for this type of shot?

[zoned03]

I want to create some photos with the subject at the bottom of the frame and lots of space above them but without pointing the camera upwards. What lens would work best for this and how do people get this look? Or are they just shooting with subject in the center and cropping?

Some examples:
http://mmm.electricpulp.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/bad-weather-wedding-photos-5.jpg
http://hensethename.com/site_uploads/work_images/_thumb/HENSE_BeltLine_Mural_2014.jpg

 

[Derrel]

The BEST way to do that is to look at a Field of View Calculator, on-line, and plug in the area you need, say 30 x 20 feet or 40 x 30 feet, or whatever, and then plug in some lenses and distances.

The man looks like a 28mm lens from 50 feet; ther wedding coupe, on the hillock could be an 85mm lens from 80 feet.

There are MANY,many,MANY ways to get this kind of a shot. 28mm lens, 35mm lens, 50mm, 85mm, and at different distances, and tall versus wide camera angles as well.

 

[table1349]

I must respectfully disagree with Derrel on this. The second best way is the use of a Field of view calculator.
The best way would be to learn the basic concepts of photography: Digital Photography Tutorials
By doing so you would have known to use a field of view calculator. By learning the basics of photography you will understand the equipment, its abilities, and how to apply the various basics to achieve the look you want.

 

[Vtec44]

I want to create some photos with the subject at the bottom of the frame and lots of space above them but without pointing the camera upwards. What lens would work best for this and how do people get this look? Or are they just shooting with subject in the center and cropping?

Some examples:
http://mmm.electricpulp.com/wp/wp-content/uploads/2016/11/bad-weather-wedding-photos-5.jpg
http://hensethename.com/site_uploads/work_images/_thumb/HENSE_BeltLine_Mural_2014.jpg

I shoot almost the same way with mostly my with my 24-70 (at 24mm) and my 50mm. The distortion is much more noticeable at 24mm, so it's not only the camera angle but also the level and distance from your subject.

This was shot using my 24-70 at 24mm

24-70 at 24mm

24-70 at 40mm

50mm

 

[zoned03]

Well my main concern is distortion... I tried to take a few shots like this today and they just felt different. I noticed I was tilting the camera upwards to get the higher angle so I had vertical distortion, and because I was using wide angle lenses with the subject near the edge of the frame that also caused some more distortion.

So I'm trying to work out... Are they cropping the bottom of a larger photo, using a long focal length from really far away, standing on a huge ladder, or using some kind of photoshop method? There are so many potential ways to do this, but what is the "best" way?

 

[Derrel]

The BEST way "might be" considered be to use a camera that has movements....like a 4x5 film view camera, with a rising front. That would be great! You could also use a tilt/shift lens, and shift the lens upwardly, and get a somewhat similar image, but not exactly the same.

You're right...with extreme wide-angle lenses, the corners WILL show some distortion, so...stick with 28mm or 35mm or 45mm or 50mm lens focal lengths on 24x36 digital. OR--do multi-shot panoramas or multi-shot "stitches", where 3 or 4 or 5 images, TALLS, are shot and stitched together in post processing software; that will minimimize distortion from tilting the camera upoward, as compared with shooting with a horizontal camera orientation.

And YES...moving farther away, or using a ladder: BOTH are easy ways to keeop the camera back more or less parallel with the "back wall", for example. That's why I specifically mentioned an 85mm lens from 80 feet away. using a ladder makes sense: it gets the back of the camera higher, so the back of the camera in tall orientation can be kept in basically the same alignment as the back "wall" is. And you are correct: using too wide-angle of a lens causes distortion at the edges of the frame.

Elevating the camera helps avoid what is called keystoning. A camera with movements, or a tilt/shift lens can also help avoid keystoning. SO can shooting from far away, or with an elevated camera position, and the proper camera orientation.

 

[astroNikon]

If you don't like distortion and cannot correct it in post processing to your liking,
then remember *distance* is your friend. Get further back and use a longer focal lens.

or a shift or tilt/shift lens but you really have to know what you are doing at that point. older Nikon shift lenses are inexpensive (have one) but are great for images that have lots of lines (architecture, realty, etc).

 

[fmw]

If I'm not mistaken the OP asked how to get a lot of sky in an image without pointing the camera upward. He has two choices. He can change his elevation relative to the subject or use a tilt lens. Either will allow a level camera with the framing he seeks.

 

[Gary A.]

If I'm not mistaken the OP asked how to get a lot of sky in an image without pointing the camera upward. He has two choices. He can change his elevation relative to the subject or use a tilt lens. Either will allow a level camera with the framing he seeks.

Yes, if you don't have a lens/camera with movements, then get a ladder. Then it's all about distance to subject. The wider the lens the higher on the ladder ... the longer the lens the lower ... (you may have to move the ladder for the extremes of wide and long).

 

[fmw]

If I'm not mistaken the OP asked how to get a lot of sky in an image without pointing the camera upward. He has two choices. He can change his elevation relative to the subject or use a tilt lens. Either will allow a level camera with the framing he seeks.

Yes, if you don't have a lens/camera with movements, then get a ladder. Then it's all about distance to subject. The wider the lens the higher on the ladder ... the longer the lens the lower ... (you may have to move the ladder for the extremes of wide and long).

Yup. The stepladder is a basic and important piece of gear for the professional photographer.

 

[vintagesnaps]

Move back. Look thru the viewfinder, is that what you want? If not keep moving back and looking til you get what you want. If you have to aim up you probably don't have the right (or a usable) vantage point yet. Just stop before you fall down a hill or something. (I probably shouldn't joke since people have gone down a cliff etc.)

Maybe rent a lens and try a 50mm or portrait length or short telephoto - depends on where you are in relation to the scene what would work best.

 

[table1349]

If I'm not mistaken the OP asked how to get a lot of sky in an image without pointing the camera upward. He has two choices. He can change his elevation relative to the subject or use a tilt lens. Either will allow a level camera with the framing he seeks.

Yes, if you don't have a lens/camera with movements, then get a ladder. Then it's all about distance to subject. The wider the lens the higher on the ladder ... the longer the lens the lower ... (you may have to move the ladder for the extremes of wide and long).

Yup. The stepladder is a basic and important piece of gear for the professional photographer.

Awwwww Crap............ Does that mean I have to come out of retirement??? I kept my stepladder.

 

[greybeard]

If using a stepladder is not a usable solution then there are perspective control lenses that will do what you need. They are pricey to say the least.
Amazon.com : Nikon PC-E FX NIKKOR 24mm f/3.5D ED Fixed Zoom Lens for Nikon DSLR Cameras : Camera Lenses : Camera & Photo

The easiest solution is to do it with post processing. Both Lightroom and Photoshop have vertical and horizontal correction adjustments. Lightroom even has an auto function that works most of the time. You can point the camera up creating the keystone effect and then make things parallel again with the distortion controls.

 

[Gary A.]

If I'm not mistaken the OP asked how to get a lot of sky in an image without pointing the camera upward. He has two choices. He can change his elevation relative to the subject or use a tilt lens. Either will allow a level camera with the framing he seeks.

Yes, if you don't have a lens/camera with movements, then get a ladder. Then it's all about distance to subject. The wider the lens the higher on the ladder ... the longer the lens the lower ... (you may have to move the ladder for the extremes of wide and long).

Yup. The stepladder is a basic and important piece of gear for the professional photographer.

Awwwww Crap............ Does that mean I have to come out of retirement??? I kept my stepladder.

Yes.