Camera Shake

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by TheLogan, Jul 20, 2009.

  1. TheLogan

    TheLogan TPF Noob!

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    I've been having bad camera shake problems and can't get a solid focus on almost any pictures. I mean, they're close but it makes me bad that they're not. Is there any technique that might help me? I can't just carry a tripod everywhere, thats not convenient at all.

    Or is there a lens that has better stabilization?

    Help please :p

    -Logan
     
  2. icassell

    icassell TPF Noob!

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    ok ... 1st thought is that you are shooting with too slow a shutter speed. Remember, the typical handheld safe shutter speed is 1/ (lens focal length) -- meaning that you should be at least 1/100 sec for a 100mm lens, 1/50 sec for a 50mm lens, etc. These are averages and many people (myself included) have trouble keeping still even at these speeds. You didn't mention what camera/lens you are using.

    Here are some ideas from another site:

    http://www.digital-photo-secrets.com/tip/11/avoiding-shake-how-to-hold-a-digital-camera/

    http://digital-photography-school.com/how-to-hold-a-digital-camera

    Using Your Body As A Tripod For Hand-Holding Camera Shots - AudioKarma.org Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums
     
    Last edited: Jul 20, 2009
  3. Samanax

    Samanax TPF Noob!

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    Which camera are you using now?

    Got any sample pictures that show the camera shake?
     
  4. Bravotwofive

    Bravotwofive TPF Noob!

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    Use monopod with a ball head.
     
  5. TheLogan

    TheLogan TPF Noob!

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    I'm shooting a canon XS with the 50mm 1.8 lens.

    here are some examples:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  6. Samanax

    Samanax TPF Noob!

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    What shutter speed did you use for these images? Sorry, my work computer doesn't have a exif reader.

    The EF 50mm f/1.8 II lens doesn't have Image Stabilization so the slowest shutter speed you'll want to use is 1/50 of a second. There are all kind of tricks you can try to hold the camera steady without a tripod. Try not to tense up when you shoot...keep loose and breath normally. Try to hit the shutter release during the natural pause between breaths. Keep your elbows tucked in.
     
  7. TheLogan

    TheLogan TPF Noob!

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    oh okay, that make sense I believe these were taken at 1/20 or 1/30 so that might be the problem. Do Image stabilization lenses drastically help? If so is there one you would recommend in the $500 range?
     
  8. benhasajeep

    benhasajeep TPF Noob!

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    Get a tripod and a head. Will allow the slower shutter speeds and no shake.
     
  9. willma88

    willma88 TPF Noob!

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    Image stabalisation, at least for Nikon only helps at a max of 3 stops. Its great.. but not really worth 500bucks. Try getting a monopod. Its cheaper and a little more friendly to use than the fullsize tripod.
     
  10. Samanax

    Samanax TPF Noob!

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    I can only think of two IS lenses for under $500...the EF-S 17-85mm f/4.0-5.6 IS USM and the EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM but I really wouldn't recommend either since they're not very fast lenses.

    What ISO did you shoot these images at? It looks like you like to shoot in low light without flash so you'll have to use a wide open aperture, high ISO setting and try to keep the shutter speed up to keep camera shake to a minimum...or bring a tripod with you...or try these shots with flash.
     
  11. TheLogan

    TheLogan TPF Noob!

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    so would buying an external flash be my best bet? would I be able to get the same natural look that most of these have while using a flash? I hate the internal flash on the camera
     
  12. musicaleCA

    musicaleCA TPF Noob!

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    You hate it because it's direct. Whether or not you use it to help freeze motion, flash in an invaluable tool at one's disposal that opens a whole new world of lighting possibilities. If you know what you're doing, it's entirely possible to get a natural, or nice and purdy soft light with external, off-camera flash.

    What f-stop are you shooting at in these images? Wide-open, the EF 50mm f/1.8 is a little soft, and DoF becomes razor thin when you're focusing in close.

    Also, an addendum to the 1/(focal length) rule of thumb: You need to account for the fact that you have a crop sensor as well. This rule of thumb is thus: 1/((focal length)*1.6) .
     

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