can you share some of your best custom simulation for Fuji X-T2?

[d_animality]

Hi... im very new to this and im really looking forward to try a series of combination of custom simulations that i can use for my camera... since im travelling soon

im gonna need your expertise for:

1) taking photos of building.. obviously i want the color to be nice and sharp
2) nature.. i love taking greens and blues places
3) for portrait.. like the classic chrome but a lil but of touch up with the settings would help

i think thats all i need for now, i already have setting for B&W so thats fine... oh do i also need setting for astrophotography? if there is please suggest me, im so noob with these settings

Thank you very much dear fellows

Regards

 

[Gary A.]

You may want to contact jcdeboever. He is a big contributor to TPF and he's been experimenting with all the various simulations. I use Fuji, but only shoot in RAW.

 

[d_animality]

You may want to contact jcdeboever. He is a big contributor to TPF and he's been experimenting with all the various simulations. I use Fuji, but only shoot in RAW.

Oh i have been in contact with him, hes very helpful but i dint get the chance to ask these settings, i really hope hes reading this and also i would like to welcome others to contribute as well

 

[jcdeboever]

One mans simulation may not be anothers. You really need to experiment as I did. Look at all the available settings and test, using small tweaks. Here is a good link...

Fuji X-Photographer Bert Stephani Shares His Fujifilm Film Simulation Settings + Vote Your Favorite Film Simulation - Fuji Rumors



Sent from my SM-T377V using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app

 

[d_animality]

One mans simulation may not be anothers. You really need to experiment as I did. Look at all the available settings and test, using small tweaks. Here is a good link...

Fuji X-Photographer Bert Stephani Shares His Fujifilm Film Simulation Settings + Vote Your Favorite Film Simulation - Fuji Rumors



Sent from my SM-T377V using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app

Thank you ill watch the youtube later and give it a try

 

[jcdeboever]

One mans simulation may not be anothers. You really need to experiment as I did. Look at all the available settings and test, using small tweaks. Here is a good link...

Fuji X-Photographer Bert Stephani Shares His Fujifilm Film Simulation Settings + Vote Your Favorite Film Simulation - Fuji Rumors



Sent from my SM-T377V using ThePhotoForum.com mobile app

Thank you ill watch the youtube later and give it a try

You will notice he does this to give it the look he wants and at the same time eliminate time in post. Once you get familiar with camera, you may notice your tweaking things in post consistently that could addressed by the way of a custom setting, why not make a custom pre set. I shot everything in raw in the beginning and when converting it in camera, I remembered tweaking that type of scene in post, so I just tweaked it and converted it. Now I can make a custom preset simulation for it and just shoot it in JPEG for a SOOC jpeg. Example, shooting a street scene on a sunny day, Acros with yellow filter would seem to fit but when converting it in camera, I noticed the tone of the sky may not line up with my pre visual image. So I bump the contrast, lower the highlights, and BAM, no editing in post.

 

[smoke665]

you may notice your tweaking things in post consistently that could addressed by the way of a custom setting, w

In the beginning, I turned off all the menu items that would alter the raw file on my K3II, chosing to add the tweaks as a custom preset in LR or ACR/PS, because frankly it was driving me crazy trying to out think the camera. Now as I've studied and learned more about how the camera works, I've started trying to utilizing some of those tweaks in camera, to see if it's advantageous. So far unless I'm going for an in camera conversion I haven't found any time savings, over letting LR apply the presets on import, and the advantage is I have the unaltered raw files that I can adjust the preset if need be.

You've been hitting them out of the park with your SOOC images. Do you ever see yourself going back to raw files and converting post?

 

[jcdeboever]

you may notice your tweaking things in post consistently that could addressed by the way of a custom setting, w

In the beginning, I turned off all the menu items that would alter the raw file on my K3II, chosing to add the tweaks as a custom preset in LR or ACR/PS, because frankly it was driving me crazy trying to out think the camera. Now as I've studied and learned more about how the camera works, I've started trying to utilizing some of those tweaks in camera, to see if it's advantageous. So far unless I'm going for an in camera conversion I haven't found any time savings, over letting LR apply the presets on import, and the advantage is I have the unaltered raw files that I can adjust the preset if need be.

You've been hitting them out of the park with your SOOC images. Do you ever see yourself going back to raw files and converting post?

Good question. I would shoot in raw for like senior pictures or something like that. That way I could fine tune individual pics in the camera and have a backup in the second card slot. Other than that, JPEGs are so good SOOC, for my personal stuff, I have the presets pretty much set. If I am not sure, I just go in quick menu and choose raw for that image(s).

 

[smoke665]

@jcdeboever you reminded me of a valid point, with two card slots available, I've always meant to do both Raw+ but never remember to do it. There's a lag time to consider but unless you need to shoot rapid fire, it's not that bad. Need to try that and compare camera to post.

 

[jcdeboever]

The XT2 supports fast US2 cards, works great.

 

[smoke665]

The XT2 supports fast US2 cards, works great.

On the K3II the response time on a single shot Raw or JPEG vs a Raw+ is like >.3 of a second. So it's not a killer. When you go to continuous, is where you notice the slow down, as the buffer fills up.

 

[Ysarex]

@jcdeboever you reminded me of a valid point, with two card slots available, I've always meant to do both Raw+ but never remember to do it. There's a lag time to consider but unless you need to shoot rapid fire, it's not that bad. Need to try that and compare camera to post.

There's another consideration to the raw+JPEG option that doesn't get much mention. They really are two different exposures. If you take the photo to produce a well exposed JPEG you get a compromised underexposed raw file. Begs the question why. If you expose to get a best possible raw file then the JPEG is typically worthless and so why bother saving it. Depending on the specific camera make/model the difference can range from minor (.5 stop) to fairly substantial (1.5 stop). I'm shooting the same camera as JC and I keep the EC on the camera set to +1 by default and frequently wind up taking the photo at +1.67 and even +2.

In other words our cameras are designed such that you can't expose to get an ideal JPEG and raw file -- you got to pick one and compromise the other.

Joe

 

[smoke665]

They really are two different exposures. If you take the photo to produce a well exposed JPEG you get a compromised underexposed raw file.

I tend to shoot manual a lot now, so it's my understanding that the only modification to the Raw file would be if I selected a camera menu option that did in fact change the exposure of the raw file, otherwise for those things that only affected a JPEG I assumed that I could have the best of both worlds.

 

[Ysarex]

They really are two different exposures. If you take the photo to produce a well exposed JPEG you get a compromised underexposed raw file.

I tend to shoot manual a lot now, so it's my understanding that the only modification to the Raw file would be if I selected a camera menu option that did in fact change the exposure of the raw file, otherwise for those things that only affected a JPEG I assumed that I could have the best of both worlds.

I'm afraid not. You still have to chose one or the other. How much of a difference depends on your specific camera. The camera makers all build a hedge into their JPEG processors and metering systems. You can't take two exposures simultaneously. An exposure that's ideal for the camera JPEG processor will typically be an underexposure for the raw file. Or with an ideal raw exposure the camera JEPG software will typically generate an overexposed JPEG. We all have to pick one or the other. People who shoot raw+JPEG of course adjust exposure to get a good looking JPEG -- their raw files as such aren't as good as they could be. They're still usable but they typically only utilize 60% even 50% of the sensor's recording capacity.

Joe

 

[smoke665]

I'm afraid not

Even on manual?? You've never steered me wrong but I find that hard to believe, unless it's one of the menu adjustments that specifically affects the raw file