Canon EF-S 55-250mm f/4-5.6 IS STM --Or--EF 70-300mm F/4-5.6 IS USM Lens

[Distracto]

So basically i just bought my new canon 700D and have an 18-55mm lens. i am looking for a telephoto lens and came across these two lenses. The EF-s55-250mm costs around 200 Euros from Ebay while the 70-300mm Ef lens costs around 280 Euros.

My main concern about these two lenses is the F/ aperture value. They both have the same large f value of f/4 but how do i know until how much i can increase the f value(which means if i can go up to lets say f32)

Also which one would you recommend and why?(im also open to any other suggestion in lenses.)

Thanks !

 

[TCampbell]

You should read...

This: Canon EF-S 55-250mm f 4-5.6 IS STM Lens Review
And: Canon EF 70-300mm f 4-5.6 IS USM Lens Review

Also weighing quite heavily in this is what you intend to do with such a lens.

If you told us you like to go birding... you might get responses that nudge you more up into the range of a 400mm (or even perhaps a bit more) and that neither lens would be ideal. If you planned to shoot sports at night (under artificial lighting) then you might get responses that suggest you should be looking at f/2.8 zooms (very expensive) because gaining 2 full stops at the long end of the lens really is a big deal (4 times the light means you can set the shutter speed to shoot 4 times faster to help freeze action and/or reduce the ISO for lower noise.)

That's why "what" you want to do with a lens will play a big role in helping to decide which one is more optimal.

 

[Distracto]

You should read...

This: Canon EF-S 55-250mm f 4-5.6 IS STM Lens Review
And: Canon EF 70-300mm f 4-5.6 IS USM Lens Review

Also weighing quite heavily in this is what you intend to do with such a lens.

If you told us you like to go birding... you might get responses that nudge you more up into the range of a 400mm (or even perhaps a bit more) and that neither lens would be ideal. If you planned to shoot sports at night (under artificial lighting) then you might get responses that suggest you should be looking at f/2.8 zooms (very expensive) because gaining 2 full stops at the long end of the lens really is a big deal (4 times the light means you can set the shutter speed to shoot 4 times faster to help freeze action and/or reduce the ISO for lower noise.)

That's why "what" you want to do with a lens will play a big role in helping to decide which one is more optimal.

Im in love with this forum, immediate detailed response, thank you so much ! Last question before i hit the buy now button is.. How do i know till wjat f value i can go up to?( the 18-55m i can have an f value of f32. How can i know the 55-250 till how much the f value can increase?

 

[raventepes]

I'll just be realistic here. If you're shooting at f/32, your pictures are in for a world of IQ problems. Personally, I try not to go past f/16, but generally shoot at f/8, depending on what I'm photographing. If I need to get some good isolation going, I'll shoot a bit more open (wide open on something like the 70-300 with the widest aperture (lower f/ number) that I can get for the focal length).

But on that note, generally speaking, I'd go with the 70-300, rather than the 55-250. It's just an all round better lens in my opinion. Also, if you ever go to full frame, you'd be able to use it. The 55-250 is designed for APS-C.

 

[TCampbell]

For that you actually have to download the manual and check the specs (it's online at Canon's website).

It turns out that for the 55-250mm the smallest possible aperture is *also* a variable value... f/22 at the 55mm end and f/32 at the 250mm end.

I don't ever recall seeing a lens that could not at least go down to f/22 -- and some do f/32. But there's very little reason to shoot beyond f/16. The only exception to that is when I want to force points of light to throw diffraction spikes for a more "star-like" appearance. As the aperture gets tinier, the size of the diffraction spikes gets bigger. So I will sometimes deliberately shoot at f/22 if I want to do that to the points of light. The number of diffraction spikes you get is based on the number of aperture blades you have an ALSO if it's an odd vs. even number. If you have an even number of blades then two of the blades will have parallel edges -- so their diffraction spikes overlap. If you have an odd number then they're all just a bit off-set from each other and you see more spikes.

You can also do that buy using an effects filter and if you use a filter you get a bit more control and you aren't forced to shoot at a high focal ratio. e.g. here's an example: B W 77mm Cross Screen 4X 684 Filter 65-064379 B H Photo Video (they make these in 4 point, 6 point, and 8 point star versions.

 

[spiralout462]

I own the 55-250 IS STM and a 700d. It suits my needs very well. It stays on the camera for the most part. I can't compare it to more expensive glass but like I said it performs very well for me.

 

[Austin Greene]

Back in the day when I was shooting on a crop sensor, a Rebel T3i, I absolutely loved the 55-250. Truly a great lens for the price, and wonderful on a crop for wildlife shooting. Portraits too.

 

[shipshooter]

Back in the day when I was shooting on a crop sensor, a Rebel T3i, I absolutely loved the 55-250. Truly a great lens for the price, and wonderful on a crop for wildlife shooting. Portraits too.

that's funny "back in the day"....like it was 15-20 years ago instead of 2-3.