Can't get really sharp images on EOS 40D

[MDesigner]

I have the highly touted Tamron SP 17-50mm f/2.8 lens with an EOS 40D. I was taking some shots and when I zoom in 1:1 at the part of the photo where the camera was focused, I expect it to be pretty sharp.. but it's a bit fuzzy to be honest. I tried different f-stops.. 2.8, 8, 10, tried ISO 200, ISO 400. What else would contribute to this? Am I just expecting too much, maybe? I'll see if I can post photos later.

 

[BoblyBill]

I don't think it's the camera that would give you soft images but possibly the lens. I would like to see some of these pics if you could please. what shudder speed you shooting at?

 

[icassell]

I have the Tamron 17-50mm with my 30D and haven't had soft issues once I learned about AI and AI servo. I had been a manual-focus 35mm person for years, so the whole AF thing was new to me. I still don't trust it entirely and frequently will manual focus (have been thinking of buying a Katzeye split-screen viewing screen). I don't think you're having a camera problem -- I think you're getting into situations where the AF just isn't doing it for you.

Another thought -- what shutter speed are you using? Are you sure it isn't camera shake?

I love the lens -- it has become my standard walkabout glass.

 

[MDesigner]

Any shutter speed mostly. 1/60, 1/800. I'll see if I can take some more shots later and post 1:1 cropped sections to illustrate this.

 

[sultan]

How fuzzy? If a sharp edge is about 5 or less pixels wide, that's normal. Just turn up the sharpening and the 5 pixel edge becomes a 2 pixel edge.

If it's a great blur, check the focus and if that's not the problem, you have a defective lens. Return it.

The shutter speed sounds fine, it's not camera shake.

 

[julie32]

Are you using a tripod?? Can you post some of your images?

 

[Mav]

Yeah post some photo samples. A good number of these third party lenses appear to have front or back-focusing issues, which could cause softness issues as well so keep that in mind.

 

[RyanLilly]

But also, a picture will not really look "sharp" at 100% on a computer screen.

 

[MDesigner]

Well, I was zooming in to 1:1 on my 40D's LCD display, which I was just told is not a good idea. On the computer, it looks better at 1:1 for sure. But then again, I was looking at night shots (shot on a tripod, ISO 800), so that's not a great test either.

I think I'm obsessing. I expected 1:1 to be razor sharp, that's all. Not on this Tamron.. but maybe on my future lens.. Canon 50mm f/1.4!

 

[passerby]

But also, a picture will not really look "sharp" at 100% on a computer screen.

Good idea if you have go to the store you purchased from and try it with different cameras. Hopefully you have a reciept for that lens and still under warranty.

 

[Mav]

Well, I was zooming in to 1:1 on my 40D's LCD display, which I was just told is not a good idea. On the computer, it looks better at 1:1 for sure. But then again, I was looking at night shots (shot on a tripod, ISO 800), so that's not a great test either.

I think I'm obsessing. I expected 1:1 to be razor sharp, that's all. Not on this Tamron.. but maybe on my future lens.. Canon 50mm f/1.4!

Err, okay, well I think you just answered your own question. ISO 800 shots aren't going to look sharp at 100% because they'll have either more noise, or more noise reduction, both of which muddy up images. And there's no reason to be at ISO 800 on a tripod at night either. What you want to do is shoot a long exposure at base ISO and use the camera's self timer or a remote release to minimize any vibration in your setup. So I doubt there's anything wrong with your camera or lens. You'd need to post a sample along with the EXIF data (shot data, shutter speed, aperture, iso, etc) for anybody here to know for sure. You may be obsessing, but it's probably technique related too.

 

[BoblyBill]

I have a 40D as well and one of my complaints is that the LCD DOES NOT do a good job of seeing sharpness... I have learned what to look for on the LCD that will give me a sharp shot at 100% and then I'm satisfied after that.

Here's an example of what I'm talking about:

Here's the file.

Here's what the 40D would give you on the LCD if you zoomed in all the way on the eyes (approx.)

Here's what the image file actually is at 100% (minus a little sharpness due to upload to flickr).

note: I shot this with a 17-40m L, but it does give you an idea of what to look for in the "sharpness" of the LCD.

 

[MDesigner]

17mm, ISO 800, 0.8/sec @ f/2.8

Image showing which points i'll be showing 1:1 crops of:

 

[MDesigner]

And there's no reason to be at ISO 800 on a tripod at night either. What you want to do is shoot a long exposure at base ISO and use the camera's self timer or a remote release to minimize any vibration in your setup.

What exactly is base ISO? 100? 200?

 

[Senor Hound]

What exactly is base ISO? 100? 200?

As low as possible. Since shutter speed isn't a big factor in shooting tripod shots, you wanna go with the least amount of noise possible.

I see the problem you have to be with the back LCD, right? Its not that the camera itself isn't taking good photos, its just they look blurry on the back when you try to look at them?