Capturing the moon....

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I still can't get it. How do I capture the moon with its texture without under exposing? What ISO of film should I use. Do I use small aparture long shutter or vice versa?
 
Here is one of my best moon shot, http://www.pbase.com/image/28356112/original, the camera settings where 1/250s f/4.0 at 600.0mm iso100.

What I do is set the camera to manual and get a camera meter reading for the moon itself. Since the moon is bright and close to white the camera's meter while be incorrect since it will try to meter to make the moon look 18% gray, which would be underexposed. You will need to dial in anywhere from +1 to +2 stops compensation.
 
The moon reflects direct sunlight to us here. Since it is in effect being lit by direct sunlight you need to use the "Sunny 16" rule. Set your aperture at f/16 and set the shutterspeed at 1/film ISO. So if you're using ISO 100, set your camera to f/16 and either 1/90 or 1/125. You might want to use both, just to be sure.
 
Wow 600mm...


Anyway, I am more concerned about full moon at night. You get so much light from the moon but the rest is dark. So either you over expose the moon trying to get enough exposure on the sky, or under expose the sky while trying to get the moon.
 
If you want detail in the sky and the moon correctly exposed, you'll just about have to use double exposure. A fairly long exposure of a section of sky that doesn't contain the moon in the frame, and then frame the moon and expose for it. Or make two separate exposures and combine in Photoshop.

I don't know of another way. No film I've ever seen, and no digital sensor has enough dynamic range to cover that large an exposure range.
 
Slowboat said:
Here is one of my best moon shot, http://www.pbase.com/image/28356112/original, the camera settings where 1/250s f/4.0 at 600.0mm iso100.<snip>

I am assuming you did a crop of this picture. Did you do any other digital editing of it? I ask because I took this one at 800mm (80-400mm w/2x teleconverter) ISO100, 1/50s, f8
e6b66c77.jpg
 
Nothing fancy done for the photo, just some slight curves adjustment to bring up the contrast and a little USM.

The effective 35mm focal length for the shot is 960mm(10D focal length multiplier of 1.6 x 600), benefit of a non full frame DSLR is the telephoto end. The displayed image is about a 1/3 crop of the original, wish I had a teleconverter with me that day :)

Following the rules of recipricocity f/8 @ 1/50s = f/4 @ 1/200s, so your exposure is not that much different that mine of f/4 @ 1/250s.
 
Thanks for the reply, I figured our exposures were similar but you had to have done something else to yours. That is one advantage of the DSLR cameras that it enhances the telephoto end. I've got to get some photo editing software although 99% of my picts are 35mm format.

Anyway, very nice shot!
 
Slowboat said:
Here is one of my best moon shot, http://www.pbase.com/image/28356112/original, the camera settings where 1/250s f/4.0 at 600.0mm iso100.

What I do is set the camera to manual and get a camera meter reading for the moon itself. Since the moon is bright and close to white the camera's meter while be incorrect since it will try to meter to make the moon look 18% gray, which would be underexposed. You will need to dial in anywhere from +1 to +2 stops compensation.

That is an Awesome image, with great detail. I have taken images of the moon with a film SLR, a 300mm telephoto lens and 2x converter using ISO 400 film and an aperture of f/8. this combo yields only an average image, and is devoid of such detail. I Have some ISO 200 'High Definition' Kodak film I wish to try with again to attempt to achieve better results.

Firstly, I would like to know whether my set-up is capable of better results. The camera is a 19 Year old Nikon SLR, the lens is a 70-300mm Tamron Macro/ Telephoto lens, And im uncertain of the 2x converters brand. Would this lens/ converter combination be able to produce such a decent image, or is the optical resolution of the setup incapapable of producing an improved image with the High definition Film?

Later this year I am to buy my own equipment (Im currently using my dads gear). The plan is to buy the following:
*Nikon D-70 with 18-70mm DX lens
*Tamron 70-300mm macro/ telephoto lens
*SB 600 Speedlight
*256 Mb Compact Flash card.

Given the fact that the Digital Camera's Sensor 'crops' the image with the result of an apperent 1.5x Focal length increase, the 70-300mm lens becomes a 105mm to 450mm Telephoto lens, therefor I wont bother with a teleconverter yet.

I'm hoping to get the above system (Minus the memory card) for approximately $3000 Aus. I should hopefully be able to achieve better results all round with that set-up.

And while Im at it I may as well post my favorite moon image yet again!
ES2.jpg
 
Firstly, I would like to know whether my set-up is capable of better results. The camera is a 19 Year old Nikon SLR, the lens is a 70-300mm Tamron Macro/ Telephoto lens, And im uncertain of the 2x converters brand. Would this lens/ converter combination be able to produce such a decent image, or is the optical resolution of the setup incapapable of producing an improved image with the High definition Film?

Later this year I am to buy my own equipment (Im currently using my dads gear). The plan is to buy the following:
*Nikon D-70 with 18-70mm DX lens
*Tamron 70-300mm macro/ telephoto lens
*SB 600 Speedlight
*256 Mb Compact Flash card.
[/quote]

From looking at your images of the moon, they are pretty good shots. I dont think you will be able to bring in as much in detail without a longer lens. Although I used a 600mm, the effective was 960mm because of the digital censor size. That extra 360mm at the long end makes a world of difference.

I would first focus efforts on technique and make sure that your camera/lens is supported by a solid tripod system to reduce all the vibrtation you can. Also use mirror lockup if possible, this will reduce vibration from mirror slap.

After technique and supporting gear is solid I would to try and find a large photography store in your area and see if they have rentals and rent a big telephoto prime for a day or two.
 
I live in a 'city' with a population of arund 20,000. Not enough to warrant such a store.

As I mentioned in my previous message, when I get the new set-up the 300mm will effectively become a 450mm Telephoto. I still have the option of using my dads 2x Converter wich will yield a focal length of 900mm.

Perhaps this will help. Technique and tripod are fairly sturdy, so dont need to worry about that too much. have a shutter release cord to minimize vibration, however the camera I am currently using lack's Mirror lock up ability.
 
I may be able to offer some help… I’ve had experience photographing the Moon as my main interest is in Astronoomy and Astophotography, which is basically taking pictures of celestial objects like the moon.

One of my faviourite shots of the moon is this one..

http://212.19.67.7/pics/site/gallery/moon/jan04/large/img_0191lrg.jpg

It was taken using a Pentax Optio 450 (4MP) camera looking through my Telescope with the moon filling the frame. My Scope has a focal length of 1540mm so If I connect my SLR to my scope and use it as a telephoto lens I basically get 1540mm telephoto lens.

however the above shot was not taken in this way, instead my digital camera looks through the scopes's eyepiece. I do know that if I use my SLR on the moon it’s a similar size in the viewfinder (perhaps a little smaller) so maybe the apparent focal lenghth is about 2000mm

Using my scope provides a very stable platform to shoot from and also the moon stays put in the view finder, because the tripods’s mount is motorised and set to compensate for the movement of the stars and moon

If anyone has any questions about this technique I’m only too happy to help :D

Synergy
 
Can I come over?

LOL :lol: Jadin, I notice on your site you have a lot of evening/night time shots so I guess you enjoy taking those sort of pictures.

Sometimes people go WOW, but the reality is that more often than not, the weather is terrible, your equipment goes wrong or you don’t have enough ability. None of this matters if you have perseverance and patience, but for example on a shot like the above I can spend over a hour just focusing the shot!

After that I just leave the camera to take as many pictures as possible and then choose whichever one is least affected but atmospheric turbulence. In the shot of Saturn below this is picture is a composite of about 30 with each picture adding to the overall detail..

http://212.19.67.7/pics/site/gallery/planets/Saturn/Feb04/IMGP1774.jpg


Anyway if you’re curious this is my SLR mounted on my telescope’s mount and is what I take wide field long exposures with …

http://212.19.67.7/pics/site/equip/gear.jpg

I’ve been doing this for 2 years and am only just starting to learn the techniques but it’s really really rewarding

Cheers

Synergy
 

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