Capturing Welding Arcs/Sparks; Safe for Camera Sensor?

NoFX

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I have a few friends who do welding/fabrication/blacksmithing work restoring gates/fences/railings for historical mansions and other buildings, and Id like to do a series on them working. Id be capturing things like red/white-hot glowing metal, sparks flying, cutting torches, and welding. Aside from the obvious of avoiding sparks and such, I'm concerned about the lense and/or camera sensor being damaged by the welding arc.

Supposedly looking at the arc is way worse than staring at the sun. He said 15-20 feet back is fine, you won't risk getting "flashburn" (where the surface of your eye blisters from the intensity of the arc) if you happen to look at it. Would this apply to the camera as well? My plan for capturing the welding, and the grinding, was to setup with a tripod further back and zoom it to be far enough away from sparks (good way to destroy a glass lense, have a piece of molten metal land on it), but if I zoom in on the arc, is this the same as standing up close to it in terms of intensity the lense/sensor absorbs? These wouldn't be long exposure shots, I'd want fast shutter speed to capture the actual arc. Grinding pictures may be both because they'd look cool either frozen or blurred.

Should I be using any filters for this type of work? Also any tips/tricks for cool captures would be appreciated as well.

I'm using a Nikon d5500 and have a 18-140 and a Tamron 70-300 macro lense. I have UV filters for both but that's it in my filter repertoire haha. Also they're both different filter sizes, 62 and 67 respectively. Are "universal" filters a thing? Other lenses I'm looking into investing in are also different sizes than those and each other, so having 4+ different filter sizes for each filter type could get pretty expensive/annoying. Comes with the territory I guess, but still, a universal solution would be cool haha.

Thanks.
 
I have a few friends who do welding/fabrication/blacksmithing work restoring gates/fences/railings for historical mansions and other buildings, and Id like to do a series on them working. Id be capturing things like red/white-hot glowing metal, sparks flying, cutting torches, and welding. Aside from the obvious of avoiding sparks and such, I'm concerned about the lense and/or camera sensor being damaged by the welding arc.

Supposedly looking at the arc is way worse than staring at the sun. He said 15-20 feet back is fine, you won't risk getting "flashburn" (where the surface of your eye blisters from the intensity of the arc) if you happen to look at it. Would this apply to the camera as well? My plan for capturing the welding, and the grinding, was to setup with a tripod further back and zoom it to be far enough away from sparks (good way to destroy a glass lense, have a piece of molten metal land on it), but if I zoom in on the arc, is this the same as standing up close to it in terms of intensity the lense/sensor absorbs? These wouldn't be long exposure shots, I'd want fast shutter speed to capture the actual arc. Grinding pictures may be both because they'd look cool either frozen or blurred.

Should I be using any filters for this type of work? Also any tips/tricks for cool captures would be appreciated as well.

I'm using a Nikon d5500 and have a 18-140 and a Tamron 70-300 macro lense. I have UV filters for both but that's it in my filter repertoire haha. Also they're both different filter sizes, 62 and 67 respectively. Are "universal" filters a thing? Other lenses I'm looking into investing in are also different sizes than those and each other, so having 4+ different filter sizes for each filter type could get pretty expensive/annoying. Comes with the territory I guess, but still, a universal solution would be cool haha.

Thanks.

You'll want to use a neutral density filter for taking pictures of the welding.
 
I like to learn by doing . . . borrow somebody's camera (somebody you're not overly fond of is best) and take a bunch of photos with that. Let us know how they turn out, and if the camera still works afterwards.
 
Light from welding arcs can't hurt the image sensor.
Sparks can (indirectly), but only if you don't have a lens on the camera AND you have the shutter curtains open so sparks can get to and burn themselves into the filter array that is in front of the image sensor.
A dense ND filter is needed to reduce the amount of light getting in so there is a short enough shutter speed to make a usable, not seriously overexposed, photo.
 
Light from welding arcs can't hurt the image sensor.
Sparks can (indirectly), but only if you don't have a lens on the camera AND you have the shutter curtains open so sparks can get to and burn themselves into the filter array that is in front of the image sensor.
A dense ND filter is needed to reduce the amount of light getting in so there is a short enough shutter speed to make a usable, not seriously overexposed, photo.

ND filter isn't needed. I do it all the time and just expose for the not welding parts. It's actually easier than it seems.
 
Light from welding arcs can't hurt the image sensor.
Sparks can (indirectly), but only if you don't have a lens on the camera AND you have the shutter curtains open so sparks can get to and burn themselves into the filter array that is in front of the image sensor.
A dense ND filter is needed to reduce the amount of light getting in so there is a short enough shutter speed to make a usable, not seriously overexposed, photo.

ND filter isn't needed. I do it all the time and just expose for the not welding parts. It's actually easier than it seems.

Really? What settings do you usually end up at? Do you shoot mig or tig welding?
 
It would seem reasonable that you do not want to be looking at the welding arc through the camera. I would either set up the shot before any welding takes place and then take shots and adjust or hold a piece of the glass the arc welder uses in front of the lens to frame. If you just have falling sparks then they are not a bright as the arc itself. As you will probably be checking out what you want to shoot I also advise not to look at the arc even if you are not the welder.
 
I'm guessing the ND won't really help. This is from across a street from a welder and the arc is blown out - expected, really.

cmw3_d40_1484.jpg by cmwrenn3, on Flickr
 
Light from welding arcs can't hurt the image sensor.
Sparks can (indirectly), but only if you don't have a lens on the camera AND you have the shutter curtains open so sparks can get to and burn themselves into the filter array that is in front of the image sensor.
A dense ND filter is needed to reduce the amount of light getting in so there is a short enough shutter speed to make a usable, not seriously overexposed, photo.

ND filter isn't needed. I do it all the time and just expose for the not welding parts. It's actually easier than it seems.

Really? What settings do you usually end up at? Do you shoot mig or tig welding?


All kinds really.

The settings vary really. I tend to either shoot fast to freeze the Sparks or slow to make the flow. But really since it's such a localized light source it's not hard to expose for it.

As for looking at the arc, don't. It can damage your eyes big time. Using live view is fine but even through the view finder is dangerous.

The Sparks aren't super dangerous as the burn out very quickly and would have a hard time doing damage to you or your camera. Welding slag is more dangerous as it has a longer burn time, but you'd have to be super close to get any on you.
 
image.jpg
 
Ok, I thought the op wanted to see the actual weld like the way the welder would see it through his hood. In those examples the weld is just blown out.
 
That's a great shot, runnah!
 
Ok, I thought the op wanted to see the actual weld like the way the welder would see it through his hood. In those examples the weld is just blown out.

Oh yeah, frankly that is boring.
image.jpg
 
That's a great shot, runnah!

Thanks! It's what I do at work so I have tons of practice. Sadly I can only post a few a shots, legal concerns.
 
Also any tips/tricks for cool captures would be appreciated as well.
Position yourself and the camera opposite the arc, with the arc somewhat hidden behind the work, and focus on the welder's hood. Try to get the upper half of his body in the frame. With a stick welder you'll see some smoke.
 

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