Clear photos and lens choice for the Nikon D5000

[Designer]

I believe that it says I can use it off the camera too.

You can use any flash off camera, you just have to be able to trigger whichever flash you use.

So there are some options:

A cable that goes from the camera to the flash. (the ends have to be compatible and both the camera and the flash need to connection ports.) This is usually limited by the length of the cable and the frustration of having a cable trailing along for someone to trip over.

Light-sensing flash. Some flashes have this built in, or they make a sensor add-on accessory. Nikon has taken this to the next level so the camera (if equipped) can control the flash power (in the proprietary system - CLS). Most studio flashes have a sensor built in, and some speedlights do as well. Naturally, the sensor has to "see" the flash emanating from some other flash to work.

Radio-Frequency (RF) transceivers. These have the advantage of not needing a direct line of sight nor a physical connection to the flash. You just need a transmitter on the camera and a receiver on the flash. Some of these have a longer range than others, and possibly more reliability and flexibility.

 

[Designer]

A local photographer suggested this to me, ..

I'm from out of state, so obviously I'm more of an expert than your local photographer.

Also, I love it when I'm right.

 

[astroNikon]

A local photographer suggested this to me, ..

I'm from out of state, so obviously I'm more of an expert than your local photographer.

Also, I love it when I'm right.

Of course we don't know the experience of the local photographer.

A few years ago when I bought my d7000 at BestBuy they recommended a UV filter for it. I did one of those facial expressions like "did you just recommend a $5 UV piece of junk for my lens" look to the sales person who was *not* a photographer. I asked if they were a photographer. They were just pushing more high profit accessories as part of their duties.

When I bought my d750 body a few months ago they also asked about cheap junk accessories too.

 

[Tbehl1214]

A local photographer suggested this to me, ..

I'm from out of state, so obviously I'm more of an expert than your local photographer.

Also, I love it when I'm right.

Of course we don't know the experience of the local photographer.

A few years ago when I bought my d7000 at BestBuy they recommended a UV filter for it. I did one of those facial expressions like "did you just recommend a $5 UV piece of junk for my lens" look to the sales person who was *not* a photographer. I asked if they were a photographer. They were just pushing more high profit accessories as part of their duties.

When I bought my d750 body a few months ago they also asked about cheap junk accessories too.

 

[Tbehl1214]

Thank you all!! I tried to figure all of these things out. I think I'll post one of my recent photos, as I had more light and tried to not have any movement. I'm still not sure why when I zoom in close the photos are not clear or detailed as I would like them to be.

 

[astroNikon]

Thank you all!! I tried to figure all of these things out. I think I'll post one of my recent photos, as I had more light and tried to not have any movement. I'm still not sure why when I zoom in close the photos are not clear or detailed as I would like them to be.

here's another recent thread about sharp pictures and ideas/concepts. But once again without example photographs we're just guessing ==> Taking Sharp Pictures

 

[robbins.photo]

Ok, so a couple of thoughts on sharp photos...

First, take control of the camera's AF system. For portraits reduce the number of AF points your camera is using to one, and put that on the subjects eye. That is where most people will look first when viewing a photograph, so if it doesn't look sharp the whole picture will appear some what out of focus.

Second. Shutter speed. A good fast shutter speed eliminates things like camera shake, motion blur, etc. For human beings who aren't moving around much, start at 1/120 or 1/200 when possible. For faster moving targets, increase shutter speed.

Aperture - Most lenses are not at their sharpest when shot wide open. When possible start with an aperture setting of say 5.6 or 8. This will also increase your DOF which means you'll have less focus fall off due to distance.

Zoom - if I remember correctly you mentioned your zoom lens was a 28-300 or something similar. Lenses like this are nice from the standpoint that they give you a wide variety of focal lengths in just one lens. The downside is they are not as sharp in general as zooms with a more limited focal length, and they are usually at there worst when fully zoomed out or shot wide open. So if your going to use these for portraits try to stay closer to the "sweet spot" of the lens, where it operates best. Try to avoid shooting fully zoomed out or fully zoomed in when you can, and always try to stop down the lens by at least one stop or more when possible.

Also when zooming out to longer focal lengths, increase your shutter speed. Try to stay above whatever the focal length your shooting at, or even double that when possible. So if your shooting at say 300mm, try staying at 1/300 or higher for shutter speed.

 

[robbins.photo]

Oh, one other quick thought occurs. When your starting out especially, try shooting in RAW + JPG mode whenever possible. The cameras processed JPG will give you a good basis for comparison. Process the RAW file, then compare it to the cameras JPG. If the camera is doing a better job processing those images, and they are sharper, etc.. it can give you a good indication of what areas you need to start thinking about when processing your RAW files.

 

[Designer]

I'm still not sure why when I zoom in close the photos are not clear or detailed as I would like them to be.

This is fairly common. In order to analyze your photographs, someone will need to find out EVERYTHING about your gear and your technique. For us to start asking questions at random is the long, slow, tedious method. The more information you can provide, the faster someone can come up with the probable cause. Also, there might be more than one factor at play here as well.

Post an example, include the EXIF, name everything that is on your camera, and be frank about how you take a photo.

 

[Tbehl1214]

Thank you, all! I currently shoot with both jpeg and raw so that I am able to edit. I have my lens set to A and VR is on. I removed my UV filter. I typically try to use S or A mode while shooting. WB is set to Auto and ISO is at 200, although I do change as needed. I try to keep the meter on the screen in the middle so I am not over/under exposing. I change my focus (single or landscape) when needed and I also move the focal point if I have a subject. I switch between my two lenses 18-55mm and 55-200 mm, although I prefer the 55-200 because it creates a background blur. I do typically use my 18-55 inside with my on camera flash (shanny). As for other settings....my release mode is set to S and I'm on AF-A. I am unsure of what "metering" or "active D lighting" is and if I should be setting it to something in particular. I am attaching some photos that I have taken in case that helps to see what I may be doing wrong. Again, I've been playing around as much as I can, but the clarity when zooming in is just awful so I'm hoping to improve it.

 

[Tbehl1214]

Here is one more...

 

[astroNikon]

Thank you, all! I currently shoot with both jpeg and raw so that I am able to edit. I have my lens set to A and VR is on. I removed my UV filter. I typically try to use S or A mode while shooting. WB is set to Auto and ISO is at 200, although I do change as needed. I try to keep the meter on the screen in the middle so I am not over/under exposing. I change my focus (single or landscape) when needed and I also move the focal point if I have a subject. I switch between my two lenses 18-55mm and 55-200 mm, although I prefer the 55-200 because it creates a background blur. I do typically use my 18-55 inside with my on camera flash (shanny). As for other settings....my release mode is set to S and I'm on AF-A. I am unsure of what "metering" or "active D lighting" is and if I should be setting it to something in particular. I am attaching some photos that I have taken in case that helps to see what I may be doing wrong. Again, I've been playing around as much as I can, but the clarity when zooming in is just awful so I'm hoping to improve it.

Change from AF-A
and try AF-S
and then select a Single Focus Point
and then point that single focus point to the place you want to focus and test again.

You have essentially told the camera to focus on however and whatever it pleases. Whether that is the subject you *want* it to focus on is possibly totally irrelevant to the camera. Thus AF-S Single for you to be responsible on the focus spot and not the camera.

Then test and respond back again.

below .. kinda ignore what the lady states. use AF-S. Her recommendation would have been AF-A.

 

[Advanced Photo]

There was a lot of noise in the first image.

 

[Tbehl1214]

Okay, here are two photos I took after I changed to AF-S. Unfortunately it was raining so I had to take some inside. I did use my flash, which I'm still working on too.

 

[Tbehl1214]

And here is one I did outside today. I basically played around with the settings, but kept it on AF-S. When I focus in on the subjects, they are still blurry. Ugh.