Correct lens for the best portaiture

The FoV on a 50mm will be closer to 85mm. It will still will be a 50mm lens, and perform like one. The 28mm you speak of will have a narrower FoV, close to a 50mm on a full frame, but it will have the distortion associated with the 28mm focal length. Not ideal for portraiture, as a matter of fact, it wouldn't be great at all.

I think you are incorrect. As I understand, the distortion is inherent to the camera-to-subject distance, not the focal length of the lens.

Normally for a standard portrait... you would have to be much closer to the subject with a 28mm... and that would cause distortion. If you are at the same distance you would be with a 50.. obviously your subject will be much smaller in the frame. I believe that is what Tyler was pointing out.

Wide angles / UWA's are more prone to distortion than a telephoto for instance, because of the way light travels into the lens from the sides. Otherwise a fisheye (which is just an extreme wide angle) would not produce the effect it does. A telephoto sees light in a much smaller view.. and doesn't have to attempt to "bend" the light as much as a wide angle does (this is what gives distortion), just to get it on the sensor. (Difficult to explain simply.. lol!)
 
Thanks all. This has really been a very informative thread for me, unfortunately, I still didn't get an answer as to whether my 100mm macro lens is good for portraiture as well, and if there is any fundamental difference between my 100mm EF Macro lens and a "standard" (not really sure what that means :), other than non-macro specific) 100mm lens.

I guess that I can always try a couple of shots with my 50mm and then using the same aperture and the same camera-to-subject distance on my 100mm and see what happens. Once I get the opportunity, I will post the results (although I will blow up the 50mm photo to fill the frame the same as the 100mm shot)

Creating great portraits will be more about how you light your subject and how you pose them in relation to your camera/background/foreground.
 
Thanks all. This has really been a very informative thread for me, unfortunately, I still didn't get an answer as to whether my 100mm macro lens is good for portraiture as well, and if there is any fundamental difference between my 100mm EF Macro lens and a "standard" (not really sure what that means :), other than non-macro specific) 100mm lens.

I guess that I can always try a couple of shots with my 50mm and then using the same aperture and the same camera-to-subject distance on my 100mm and see what happens. Once I get the opportunity, I will post the results (although I will blow up the 50mm photo to fill the frame the same as the 100mm shot)


Creating great portraits will be more about how you light your subject and how you pose them in relation to your camera/background/foreground.

Thanks Jake337,
That much I know, LOL, but it still doesn't answer my question. I am looking for a technical answer to my question from someone who knows the different specs and lenses.
 
OP, yes the 100mm macro is a good lens for portrait. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of the 100mm macro vs 100 standard:

100mm macro Advantages (aperture probably 2.8):
1. the minimum focusing distance is smaller. That means you can get closer and get more magnified view (macro)
2. Cant think of anything else lol

100mm standard:
1. More than likely it is a faster lens (aperture 1.8, 1.4 or 1.2).
2. It can focus faster
3. If shot at f/2.8, this one is sharper
 
That much I know, LOL, but it still doesn't answer my question. I am looking for a technical answer to my question from someone who knows the different specs and lenses.

I have used a Tokina 100mm macro, a Sigma 150mm macro, and a Nikon 105mm macro for portraits. They will all produce sharp, well proportioned images.. if you do your part. The main hindrances are that sometimes the AF is slow, and they tend to hunt a bit, if the subject lacks contrast. Sometimes if they have a focus limit switch.. that can help.

Are they optimal.. maybe not. Can they produce beautiful images.. yes! Bokeh can vary from lens to lens.. since they are not "designed" for beautiful bokeh.. but they can do well at also.
 
This is a shot from the Sigma 150mm macro

6480149827_61a9892991_b.jpg

Kara C by CGipson Photography, on Flickr
 
That much I know, LOL, but it still doesn't answer my question. I am looking for a technical answer to my question from someone who knows the different specs and lenses.

I have used a Tokina 100mm macro, a Sigma 150mm macro, and a Nikon 105mm macro for portraits. They will all produce sharp, well proportioned images.. if you do your part. The main hindrances are that sometimes the AF is slow, and they tend to hunt a bit, if the subject lacks contrast. Sometimes if they have a focus limit switch.. that can help.

Are they optimal.. maybe not. Can they produce beautiful images.. yes! Bokeh can vary from lens to lens.. since they are not "designed" for beautiful bokeh.. but they can do well at also.

Thanks cgipson1. Sounds good. What is the difference though between a macro lens and a standard lens?
 
That much I know, LOL, but it still doesn't answer my question. I am looking for a technical answer to my question from someone who knows the different specs and lenses.

I have used a Tokina 100mm macro, a Sigma 150mm macro, and a Nikon 105mm macro for portraits. They will all produce sharp, well proportioned images.. if you do your part. The main hindrances are that sometimes the AF is slow, and they tend to hunt a bit, if the subject lacks contrast. Sometimes if they have a focus limit switch.. that can help.

Are they optimal.. maybe not. Can they produce beautiful images.. yes! Bokeh can vary from lens to lens.. since they are not "designed" for beautiful bokeh.. but they can do well at also.

Most have 9 aperture blades which helps out the bokeh. I love the tokina 100mm f2.8!
 
OP, yes the 100mm macro is a good lens for portrait. Here are the advantages and disadvantages of the 100mm macro vs 100 standard:

100mm macro Advantages (aperture probably 2.8):
1. the minimum focusing distance is smaller. That means you can get closer and get more magnified view (macro)
2. Cant think of anything else lol

100mm standard:
1. More than likely it is a faster lens (aperture 1.8, 1.4 or 1.2).
2. It can focus faster
3. If shot at f/2.8, this one is sharper

Just what I was looking for schwettylens, thanks for the detailed answer.
 
That much I know, LOL, but it still doesn't answer my question. I am looking for a technical answer to my question from someone who knows the different specs and lenses.

I have used a Tokina 100mm macro, a Sigma 150mm macro, and a Nikon 105mm macro for portraits. They will all produce sharp, well proportioned images.. if you do your part. The main hindrances are that sometimes the AF is slow, and they tend to hunt a bit, if the subject lacks contrast. Sometimes if they have a focus limit switch.. that can help.

Are they optimal.. maybe not. Can they produce beautiful images.. yes! Bokeh can vary from lens to lens.. since they are not "designed" for beautiful bokeh.. but they can do well at also.

Thanks cgipson1. Sounds good. What is the difference though between a macro lens and a standard lens?

A true macro lens will usually allow very close focusing on small subjects for true 1:1 magnification... lifesize in other words. The focusing element is designed to allow very precise focusing (very small focus movements) when used in this mode. So it has a much wider focusing capability than most standard lenses... which is why a focus limit switch is handy. You can typically put the switch in position to allow only Macro focusing.. or to allow all focusing. Some will also lock it down to just normal (non-macro) focusing... that way it doesn't take as much time (or movement) for it to "find" correct focus.. since it only attempts to focus in the range you set it to.

Does that help?
 
I have used a Tokina 100mm macro, a Sigma 150mm macro, and a Nikon 105mm macro for portraits. They will all produce sharp, well proportioned images.. if you do your part. The main hindrances are that sometimes the AF is slow, and they tend to hunt a bit, if the subject lacks contrast. Sometimes if they have a focus limit switch.. that can help.

Are they optimal.. maybe not. Can they produce beautiful images.. yes! Bokeh can vary from lens to lens.. since they are not "designed" for beautiful bokeh.. but they can do well at also.

Thanks cgipson1. Sounds good. What is the difference though between a macro lens and a standard lens?

A true macro lens will usually allow very close focusing on small subjects for true 1:1 magnification... lifesize in other words. The focusing element is designed to allow very precise focusing (very small focus movements) when used in this mode. So it has a much wider focusing capability than most standard lenses... which is why a focus limit switch is handy. You can typically put the switch in position to allow only Macro focusing.. or to allow all focusing. Some will also lock it down to just normal (non-macro) focusing... that way it doesn't take as much time (or movement) for it to "find" correct focus.. since it only attempts to focus in the range you set it to.

Does that help?

Yup, it sure does. Thanks.
My 100mm EF 2.8 Canon macro, just has a switch that allows the closest focusing point to change from +- 0.31m to 0.48m, plus of course AF or MF. I have used it very successfully with macro shots (which is what I purchased it for) especially when used in conjunction with my extenders, but wasn't sure how it would do for portraiture. I'm definitely going to try it out.
 
Personally for portraiture I'd never go below 85mm. 85-135 is pretty much perfect.

"the longer the better" doesnt qork for poirtrats because if you start going over 135mm you'll get significant barrel distorton.

Technically if you want no distortion at all, 85 mil is going to be the best. I juts like to go up to 135 because I can get a bigger closeup but sometimes you dont need it.

85mm f/1.2L is the best portrait lens for a reason.

Sorry, I don't agree with the past 135mm part...

Shot at 800mm...


http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5048/5295355552_f9b6a0f238_z.jpg

Yes, but I was thinking of half-body portraits or face closeups. I don't really call this type of shot "portrait"

Plus good luck shooting with 800mil indoors in a studio
 
Thanks all. This has really been a very informative thread for me, unfortunately, I still didn't get an answer as to whether my 100mm macro lens is good for portraiture as well, and if there is any fundamental difference between my 100mm EF Macro lens and a "standard" (not really sure what that means :), other than non-macro specific) 100mm lens.

I guess that I can always try a couple of shots with my 50mm and then using the same aperture and the same camera-to-subject distance on my 100mm and see what happens. Once I get the opportunity, I will post the results (although I will blow up the 50mm photo to fill the frame the same as the 100mm shot)

It will be great for portraits where you have some room to move or for head and shoulders shots. Being a macro, it is probably sharper than most standard primes, so there's no problems with portraits. I'd use my 100L for portraits if I didn't have the crazy 135L.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201
 
Thanks all. This has really been a very informative thread for me, unfortunately, I still didn't get an answer as to whether my 100mm macro lens is good for portraiture as well, and if there is any fundamental difference between my 100mm EF Macro lens and a "standard" (not really sure what that means :), other than non-macro specific) 100mm lens.

I guess that I can always try a couple of shots with my 50mm and then using the same aperture and the same camera-to-subject distance on my 100mm and see what happens. Once I get the opportunity, I will post the results (although I will blow up the 50mm photo to fill the frame the same as the 100mm shot)

It will be great for portraits where you have some room to move or for head and shoulders shots. Being a macro, it is probably sharper than most standard primes, so there's no problems with portraits. I'd use my 100L for portraits if I didn't have the crazy 135L.

Sent from my Transformer Prime TF201

I also simply loved my 135L for portrait work also.


The Signorelli's by BX | PHOTO by BX | PHOTO, on Flickr


The Signorelli's by BX | PHOTO by BX | PHOTO, on Flickr
 

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