Cross-processing Fomapan R100 (B&W slide film) in standard developers

PilafDM · Apr 19, 2013

Hello, all!

Currently I have access to a darkroom with Fomadon Excel and Arista Premium developers. It sounds like Excel works somewhat like Xtol, and Arista Premium isn't terribly different from stock D-76 (at least in terms of development times on the Massive Dev Chart).

Now, I bought myself some Fomapan R100 (100iso black and white REVERSAL film), knowing that it has a special process for development. That said, Freestylephoto's write-up of the stuff said it CAN be developed in standard B&W chemicals -- and that's what I'd like to do. I'm sure my logic's off here, but I like the look of cross-processed _color_ slide film. I'm hoping cross-processed B&W film will also have a unique look to it.

OK, so, my question:
Massive Dev Chart doesn't even list Fomapan R100 -- it only lists Fomapan 100 (without the "R!"), which is a different film.
Has anyone developed Fomapan R100 reversal film in standard chemicals? I'm just looking for a good basis on which to start when using Arista Premium 1:9 or Fomadon Excel 1:1.

Thank you!

Cheers!

timor · Apr 20, 2013

I am sure R100 will work fine as regular negative film, but I don't think you can expect any answer to your question. You need to do own testing, but then I am afraid you have only one roll of this film. Well, I tell you what, both developers you have have the capability to over develop and Foma doesn't like it (high contrast). The best thing it would be to develop this in Rodinal (1+100) stand or in two bath developer, where time doesn't have such a critical importance. If you cannot do that, the only choice is to go with Foma 100 times for Excel plus some extra time (.5-1 min.) for insurance.

gsgary · Apr 20, 2013

1 hour stand developement in Rodinal would work, i have developed xp2 in Rodinal came out great. I have got a roll of Kodachrome 64 im going to develope in Rodinal

timor · Apr 20, 2013

O, one more thing,

, R100 developed in normal b&w chemistry won't have any "special" look. It will look like a normal b&w negative. Variation in contrast (only possible thing) I wouldn't consider "unique".

PilafDM · Apr 20, 2013

Rats!

gsgary · Apr 23, 2013

PilafDM said:
Rats!

Buy the proper chemicals for it Processing Set for FOMAPAN R100

studiocarter · Feb 21, 2017

Log into Facebook | Facebook

Fomapan R100 will not develop to a negative. The antihalation layer is inside the film and is removed during reversal, somehow.
I have successfully used the kit sold to reverse it on two rolls of Fomapan R 100 regular 8mm movie film. The kit was used up doing that. Now I want to mix my own kit, using the data sheet from the film. Fomadon LQR is indicated.
I have a Facebook page about it.

Alexr25 · Feb 21, 2017

studiocarter said:
Log into Facebook | Facebook

Fomapan R100 will not develop to a negative. The antihalation layer is inside the film and is removed during reversal, somehow.
I have successfully used the kit sold to reverse it on two rolls of Fomapan R 100 regular 8mm movie film. The kit was used up doing that. Now I want to mix my own kit, using the data sheet from the film. Fomadon LQR is indicated.
I have a Facebook page about it.

Would bleaching the film before you develop it remove the silver antihalation layer without affecting the latent image?

studiocarter · Feb 22, 2017

I tried that on a tiny clip and got totally clear film. Maybe different times could be tried. The black layer is gone after bleaching, not before. It should work because reexposure occurs after bleaching, so it may be a timing thing.

john.margetts · Feb 22, 2017

What did you bleach with? I would try first the stand development with Rodinol first and see just what defects, if any, appear.

Foma say that the anti-halation layer will be removed during processing, they do not say it will be bleached. I suspect it will just wash out as that is the case with Fomapan.

studiocarter · Feb 22, 2017

Try it. The layer is inside the film and I think made of silver. It is not on the back like Kodachrome.

john.margetts · Feb 22, 2017

Why would the anti-halation layer be silver? That would a very expensive way of doing what a simple dye does very well.

studiocarter · Feb 22, 2017

Good point. Why is it inside the layers of the film?
I looked again at the Foma tech sheet. It says that the anti halo layer will decolonize during processing.
I will test to see if water does it or if the developer does. When does it happen? It is gone after the bleach and before the clearing.

studiocarter · Feb 22, 2017

If developing and or washing were enough remove the anti halo layer no one would have a problem making negatives. Bleach removes it, not washing, not developing, not clear.

studiocarter · Feb 22, 2017

Cut a strip of film and expose it, then lower it into bleach one inch at a time eight times, see if and when the anti halo layer goes away. If so, develop the negative, clear and fix.