D5000 and off camera flash

[edouble]

I am searching for the cheapest method to use off camera flash with my D5000. I know that I can buy a su-800 commander and then buy Nikon speedlights. Is there a cheaper method than this and still use the ttl metering system and Nikon's cls?

This setup will be used at home for creative lighting. Obviously I am very new to off camera flash and do not need expensive pro gear.

Thanks

 

[Big Mike]

Unfortunately, no. I don't think that there is a cheaper way to get a wireless TTL/CLS system set up. Unless you camera has the ability to use it's built in flash as a master, but I'm guessing that it doesn't.

However, you can set up a wireless, manual, off-camera flash system for much less. All you would need is a cheap manual flash and a way to trigger it. It could be a long cord or a cheap radio trigger system.

You would, of course, have to learn to shoot with manually controlled flash, but it's not that hard, once you understand the basics of how it works.

 

[KmH]

Your D5000's CLS doesn't have Commander mode.

Like Mike said, the least expensive way to accomplish off-camera-flash is by using eBay radio triggers and 3rd party speedlights, but there will be no TTL.

eBay radio trigger set - One transmitter, 3 receivers and if desired, 2 speedlights can be mounted on each receiver doubleing the amount of light:

PT-04 C Radio Wireless Remote Double-Flash Trigger?3Rx - eBay (item 280402884186 end time Jul-25-10 01:50:11 PDT)

Some speedlights (there are others):

Vivitar DF 383 Series 1 Digital TTL Shoe Mount DF-383-NIK - B&H

Vivitar 285HV Flash 233965 - B&H Photo Video

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/515451-REG/Bower_SFD728N_SFD728N_TTL_Flash_for.html

 

[Rosshole]

If it is off camera, you are in a geat position to figure out manual control of your strobes... so do just that, set it to manual and go.

Get some $35 cactus triggers and a $160 lumapro speedlight and have some fun.

 

[edouble]

Thanks for the information. I like the Vivitar 383 flash.

 

[edouble]

After doing some research it looks like the best option and cheapest for a hobbyist photag is the LumoPro PL160 flashes and Cactus V4 trigger Set.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

the su-800 doesn't work really as well as it should IMO. It really needs 360 degree coverage. If your anywhere but inside a tight room, and your lights aren't in direct line of sight in front of the SU800, than forget about it. I ran a test against my pop up flash with an SU800 and the pop up flash was more reliable outside. Go figure.

 

[edouble]

the su-800 doesn't work really as well as it should IMO. It really needs 360 degree coverage. If your anywhere but inside a tight room, and your lights aren't in direct line of sight in front of the SU800, than forget about it. I ran a test against my pop up flash with an SU800 and the pop up flash was more reliable outside. Go figure.

I am not fiddling with a line of sight infrared system! For less than the su-800 you can buy pocket wizards. I am also not concerned with through the lens flash metering. I will do it the old fashion way - manaul.

The cheap radio triggers have issues as well with miss fires but that seems to be solved by adding a 433mhz antenna. The V4's come with an antenna and seem to be fairly reliable. The V4's reciever use a more standard size battery as opposed to the cr02's in the V2, another plus. Seems like a win to me.

 

[Big Mike]

I gave up on the cheap radio triggers. They work, but just weren't reliable enough when shooting people. That's why I went with the Cyber Sync system. A good deal cheaper than Pocket Wizards (but still a good deal more than the cheap ones)...but they work really well.

 

[Sw1tchFX]

the su-800 doesn't work really as well as it should IMO. It really needs 360 degree coverage. If your anywhere but inside a tight room, and your lights aren't in direct line of sight in front of the SU800, than forget about it. I ran a test against my pop up flash with an SU800 and the pop up flash was more reliable outside. Go figure.

I am not fiddling with a line of sight infrared system! For less than the su-800 you can buy pocket wizards. I am also not concerned with through the lens flash metering. I will do it the old fashion way - manaul.

The cheap radio triggers have issues as well with miss fires but that seems to be solved by adding a 433mhz antenna. The V4's come with an antenna and seem to be fairly reliable. The V4's reciever use a more standard size battery as opposed to the cr02's in the V2, another plus. Seems like a win to me.

The appeal isn't necessarily TTL, but you can control the output of your lights from the camera. when i'm shooting cycling and have lights on the other side of the track and need to change my flash power, this feature is indispensable.

 

[edouble]

the su-800 doesn't work really as well as it should IMO. It really needs 360 degree coverage. If your anywhere but inside a tight room, and your lights aren't in direct line of sight in front of the SU800, than forget about it. I ran a test against my pop up flash with an SU800 and the pop up flash was more reliable outside. Go figure.

I am not fiddling with a line of sight infrared system! For less than the su-800 you can buy pocket wizards. I am also not concerned with through the lens flash metering. I will do it the old fashion way - manaul.

The cheap radio triggers have issues as well with miss fires but that seems to be solved by adding a 433mhz antenna. The V4's come with an antenna and seem to be fairly reliable. The V4's reciever use a more standard size battery as opposed to the cr02's in the V2, another plus. Seems like a win to me.

The appeal isn't necessarily TTL, but you can control the output of your lights from the camera. when i'm shooting cycling and have lights on the other side of the track and need to change my flash power, this feature is indispensable.

Both manufacturers of Pocket Wizard and Cactus triggers make triggers that use many of the factory features such as ttl. They even go a couple steps further in improving some factory flash metering modes. This maybe appealing for you.

When will camera manufacturers use radio transmitters instead of IR?

 

[Sw1tchFX]

I am not fiddling with a line of sight infrared system! For less than the su-800 you can buy pocket wizards. I am also not concerned with through the lens flash metering. I will do it the old fashion way - manaul.

The cheap radio triggers have issues as well with miss fires but that seems to be solved by adding a 433mhz antenna. The V4's come with an antenna and seem to be fairly reliable. The V4's reciever use a more standard size battery as opposed to the cr02's in the V2, another plus. Seems like a win to me.

The appeal isn't necessarily TTL, but you can control the output of your lights from the camera. when i'm shooting cycling and have lights on the other side of the track and need to change my flash power, this feature is indispensable.

Both manufacturers of Pocket Wizard and Cactus triggers make triggers that use many of the factory features such as ttl. They even go a couple steps further in improving some factory flash metering modes. This maybe appealing for you.

When will camera manufacturers use radio transmitters instead of IR?

Oh sure, nowadays, but why spend $500 on radio triggers when my pop up flash will do the same thing, for free?

 

[edouble]

So educate me. When you use your pop of flash and IR as communicating methods for slave flashes does the pop up (on board camera flash) still fire when the exposure is being taken?

 

[Sw1tchFX]

So educate me. When you use your pop of flash and IR as communicating methods for slave flashes does the pop up (on board camera flash) still fire when the exposure is being taken?

Yes, but it's at such a low power, you have to be INCHES from the subject for it to even remotely get close to affecting the exposure.

 

[edouble]

So educate me. When you use your pop of flash and IR as communicating methods for slave flashes does the pop up (on board camera flash) still fire when the exposure is being taken?

Yes, but it's at such a low power, you have to be INCHES from the subject for it to even remotely get close to affecting the exposure.

Oh ok, I was wondering about that :er: