Debating New Lens for D7100

Should I get a 35mm f/1.8 DX Lens or the 50mm f/1.8 FX Lens?

I hope to upgrade to FX in the future so the FX would be great, but I would prefer the 35 focal length. Advice?
Never buy DX if you have a choice, even for a DX camera, always go FX.

While I know what you're getting at, I would have to disagree. There are focal lengths that just aren't as attractive on dx bodies, which leads manufacturers to create their DX equivalents. The 24-70 was not an attractive option when I had a D7000, but the 17-50 was perfect. One FX, one DX.
But the OP hopes to upgrade to FX. That said how do DX lenses pair with FX cameras? I do not have one, but have heard that they are senseless, I do know that my FX lenses are wonderful on DX. As for view of the lens on the camera, I do not understand the importance of this, as I strive to take a larger field of view image whenever possible, not too much but a little, this way cropping in the computer makes perfect. I probably do not crop less than 1 in 100 images as there is always something better gone, or enlarged.
 
For indoors always go wider. The 35mm f/1.8DX will work good on both your cameras. For the price, if you don't have a prime lens, just pick one up and later on you can think about other lenses. Unless your planning to upgrade both bodies to FX, you will probably keep one as a backup and can keep using this lens for some time.

The 50mm f/1.8 is also certainly cheap enough and I would put this on one camera and the 35mm on the other.
 
Should I get a 35mm f/1.8 DX Lens or the 50mm f/1.8 FX Lens?

I hope to upgrade to FX in the future so the FX would be great, but I would prefer the 35 focal length. Advice?
Never buy DX if you have a choice, even for a DX camera, always go FX.

While I know what you're getting at, I would have to disagree. There are focal lengths that just aren't as attractive on dx bodies, which leads manufacturers to create their DX equivalents. The 24-70 was not an attractive option when I had a D7000, but the 17-50 was perfect. One FX, one DX.
But the OP hopes to upgrade to FX. That said how do DX lenses pair with FX cameras? I do not have one, but have heard that they are senseless, I do know that my FX lenses are wonderful on DX. As for view of the lens on the camera, I do not understand the importance of this, as I strive to take a larger field of view image whenever possible, not too much but a little, this way cropping in the computer makes perfect. I probably do not crop less than 1 in 100 images as there is always something better gone, or enlarged.

The thing to keep in mind though is the OP wants a lens that will prove useful for tight indoor weddings. That 50mm will be more like an 80mm on his Dx camera, and probably pretty useless for indoor receptions. While it would prove excellent for portraits and other uses, it would be the last lens in my arsenal for a cramped indoor wedding and reception. There's no need to buy a lens "because its Fx", if it isn't going give you what you're looking for in terms of range. And at the end of the day, we're talking about two lens that can be purchased for around $150 each. Buy the 35 for now, and sell it later if you decide it is no longer needed when you make the jump to Fx.

As well, it truly depends on your needs and style. I shoot Fx, and my 50 1.4 is nearly always mounted to one of my two bodies. I personally love the love the focal length, and it plays directly into my style. I think the 35 would fulfill your needs.

But then again, thats just my 2 cents ;)
 
But the OP hopes to upgrade to FX. That said how do DX lenses pair with FX cameras? I do not have one, but have heard that they are senseless, I do know that my FX lenses are wonderful on DX. As for view of the lens on the camera, I do not understand the importance of this, as I strive to take a larger field of view image whenever possible, not too much but a little, this way cropping in the computer makes perfect. I probably do not crop less than 1 in 100 images as there is always something better gone, or enlarged.

DX lenses simply mean that they have a smaller image circle (rear lens element is smaller) than a typical lens made for 35mm (FX). This has the effect of causing extreme vignetting in the corners of an image if the lens is used on a full frame body.

However, all of Nikon's FX bodies can use DX lenses in "crop mode" which essentially turns off pixels around the outer edge of the sensor making it mimic the size of a crop sensor. This feature is automatic and can detect when a DX lens is attached.

While DX lenses aren't built to be used directly on a full frame camera, depending on focal length some lenses will produce somewhat acceptable results. The 35mm 1.8G for instance can be shot on a full frame 35mm body. You will see noticeable vignetting in the corners, but it's not so bad that the image is unusable, and if so desired can be cropped off in post yielding a slightly higher resolution image than you would get using the camera's built in "crop mode".

An FX or (35mm) format lens for obvious reasons works fine on a crop sensor body as it has a much larger rear element projecting light on to the sensor. Some older Nikon lenses that were noticeably soft in the corners actually are very sharp across the frame on a crop body camera as the camera's sensor is only taking the image from the center portion of the lens.
 
But the OP hopes to upgrade to FX. That said how do DX lenses pair with FX cameras? I do not have one, but have heard that they are senseless, I do know that my FX lenses are wonderful on DX. As for view of the lens on the camera, I do not understand the importance of this, as I strive to take a larger field of view image whenever possible, not too much but a little, this way cropping in the computer makes perfect. I probably do not crop less than 1 in 100 images as there is always something better gone, or enlarged.

DX lenses simply mean that they have a smaller image circle (rear lens element is smaller) than a typical lens made for 35mm (FX). This has the effect of causing extreme vignetting in the corners of an image if the lens is used on a full frame body.

However, all of Nikon's FX bodies can use DX lenses in "crop mode" which essentially turns off pixels around the outer edge of the sensor making it mimic the size of a crop sensor. This feature is automatic and can detect when a DX lens is attached.

While DX lenses aren't built to be used directly on a full frame camera, depending on focal length some lenses will produce somewhat acceptable results. The 35mm 1.8G for instance can be shot on a full frame 35mm body. You will see noticeable vignetting in the corners, but it's not so bad that the image is unusable, and if so desired can be cropped off in post yielding a slightly higher resolution image than you would get using the camera's built in "crop mode".

An FX or (35mm) format lens for obvious reasons works fine on a crop sensor body as it has a much larger rear element projecting light on to the sensor. Some older Nikon lenses that were noticeably soft in the corners actually are very sharp across the frame on a crop body camera as the camera's sensor is only taking the image from the center portion of the lens.

When you finally take the perfect image, and the edges are blurry, life sucks....................

DX lenses are senseless garbage, I have a DX camera and it's great, since most of my work is tele of some sort, not having edges means nothing, as I typically computer zoom anyway. However, I also want to keep my options for an FX camera open.
 
When you finally take the perfect image, and the edges are blurry, life sucks....................

DX lenses are senseless garbage, I have a DX camera and it's great, since most of my work is tele of some sort, not having edges means nothing, as I typically computer zoom anyway. However, I also want to keep my options for an FX camera open.

:biglaugh:
 
When you finally take the perfect image, and the edges are blurry, life sucks....................

DX lenses are senseless garbage, I have a DX camera and it's great, since most of my work is tele of some sort, not having edges means nothing, as I typically computer zoom anyway. However, I also want to keep my options for an FX camera open.

:biglaugh:
My dog can run 50 miles a day on one of my photo hikes, and she is never on a leash. In fact just last Sunday morning she took off and would not come back, when she did respond she just looked at me then turned around and ran away again. Thus I followed not knowing what the dog was doing. Seems she had found a ten point buck by the riverside and was chasing away the turkey vultures. I imagine that this buck was shot on Saturday night, and made it far enough away from the hunter that it was not found. So my dog scored a ten point buck this year. No leash needed, ever, otherwise I could not shoot my Nikon. DSC_9744b
 
Thanks for all the feedback and healthy debates. I went with the 35mm f/1.8 DX for budget reasons and the fact I needed it for a low light indoor wedding.

Next on the list, Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8
 
Thanks for all the feedback and healthy debates. I went with the 35mm f/1.8 DX for budget reasons and the fact I needed it for a low light indoor wedding.

Next on the list, Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8
Just be aware of Depth of Field with f/1.8 which can look like missed focus, blurry etc especially if doing an indoor wedding.
If you don't know already learn about distance in relation to depth of field.
Learn to push the ISO to maintain a good Shutter and Aperture for the situation.
 
Thanks for all the feedback and healthy debates. I went with the 35mm f/1.8 DX for budget reasons and the fact I needed it for a low light indoor wedding.

Next on the list, Nikkor 70-200mm f/2.8
Just be aware of Depth of Field with f/1.8 which can look like missed focus, blurry etc especially if doing an indoor wedding.
If you don't know already learn about distance in relation to depth of field.
Learn to push the ISO to maintain a good Shutter and Aperture for the situation.

Thanks for the advice; though, I already shot the wedding this weekend and was well prepared and knowledgeable with the effects of depth of field with a wide aperture. The photos turned out great!

The client was very pleased, so thank you for all the advice!
 
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