PinPong
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wow photographers know what they doing hey.. love it 
Developing with coffee
- Thread starter rom4n301
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ChasK
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Nice job, your pictures look great!
webmaster705
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MMm something new to me, well really nice and excellent work
Antonio Bunt
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How about ISO? The processing time has to be proportional to the ISO when using caffenol?
nemopaice
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here are some scanned shots from it, i overdeveloped it.. i developed for 30 min. next time ill try 20
Don't care much for the second image there, but over all I actually love the way these came out. They looked aged. I've always heard of these weird concoctions for developing, but never had the guts to waste a roll and attempt any of them.
GoonjoshGoon
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The 1st one is really good, I actually want to try this now
Boogeyman
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that is crazy! i looked at some of the examples at the end of that tutorial and while some had that aged look others looked amazingly clear. i might have to try this when i have a finished roll i dont care too much about. thanks.
Douwe Egberts' instant decaf is ok.
unpopular
Been spending a lot of time on here!
If you add some potassium bromide, you'll get better results. If anyone is interested, I can haul out my old books and try to guess how much to use. Also back in college I started looking into tobacco-based developers. If anyone wants to continue this research, send me a PM for details.
And AFAIK it's not the caffeine doing the developing, I believe it's another chemical found it coffee (and tea for that matter and blackberries and a lot of other stuff) called gallic acid, which is related to the historic developer pyrogallol, which is related to the modern developer pyrocatechol. Coffee also contain Catechin, which may act as another phenolic developer.
ETA:
Looking back on the first page there seems to be a lot of confusion about what these materials are doing. The 'washing soda' I am pretty sure is just increasing the pH, making it more basic. I need to take out the garbage and take the kiddo for a walk, when I get back I'll pull my textbooks out of storage (i.e. the car) and get back with some technical details.
And AFAIK it's not the caffeine doing the developing, I believe it's another chemical found it coffee (and tea for that matter and blackberries and a lot of other stuff) called gallic acid, which is related to the historic developer pyrogallol, which is related to the modern developer pyrocatechol. Coffee also contain Catechin, which may act as another phenolic developer.
ETA:
Looking back on the first page there seems to be a lot of confusion about what these materials are doing. The 'washing soda' I am pretty sure is just increasing the pH, making it more basic. I need to take out the garbage and take the kiddo for a walk, when I get back I'll pull my textbooks out of storage (i.e. the car) and get back with some technical details.
Last edited:
unpopular
Been spending a lot of time on here!
DISCLAIMER: I am not a trained chemist, pharmacist or laboratory technician. The following is provided as conjecture, and not for educational or instructional purposes. It is the reader's responsibility to confirm any information herein. The author may not be held liable for any damages resulting from the actions inspired by this publication.
Ok. I did some looking around.
All commercial developers consist of a few basic ingredients. Of the most basic, is the developer and the accelerant. The developer is doing the actual reduction while the accelerant is reducing the pH such that it can be done is a matter of minutes, and not hours.
The pH of most developers is around pH 10-12. Catechol is the closest commercial developer to coffee and needs a pretty high pH to work, according to a thread I read over at photo.net. To get this pH, you'll need a strong buffer, such as sodium carbonate: washing soda.
But their isn't anything really special about washing soda either. You can use any sufficient buffer to lower the pH of the developer. You might want to stay away from ammonium hydroxide (cleaning ammonia) just because I've never heard of it being used this way. Commonly they use sodium or potassium hydroxide, which is just hardware store lye and you can find as the Red Devil brand used for cleaning pipes.
Lye is pretty nasty. If you don't respect it, you'll get burned - literally. Always wear gloves, the moment hydroxide touches moisture, it will get hot. It is extremely caustic and will irritate your skin on contact, will blind you if in contact with eyes, and ruin your gut - if not kill you outright in a slow and torturously painful death - if swallowed. It will leave a chemical burns if your hands are wet. Never EVER wash lye off exposed skin with water, instead use distilled white vinegar to neutralize it. Always have a bottle of vinegar, or perhaps better, some acid stop around you when working with lye as a precaution to clean up any spills, stop burns or if it comes into skin contact.
Always add lye to the solution slowly, and NEVER add the solution to the lye. Doing so will result in excess heat which can result in cracked glassware or melted plasticware and spills.
You won't need much lye at all to bring it to pH 10+, we're talking a matter of grams not ounces.
Less effective but probably better than carbonate is borax (sodium borate) which you can find in the laundry department at Wal Mart and some better stocked grocery stores. Borax won't burn you, and can be handled with the same level of precaution as any other laundry soap.
You'll need a bit more borax than you would lye.
The last and less desirable solution would be to make calcium carbonate from baking soda by placing dry baking soda in a pan on high, while stirring. You might want to turn of your carbon monoxide detector, because this is going to emit a lot of carbon that will build on your oven's hood and will make a giant mess, make sure the fan is on and the windows are open, and don't come to me if you asphyxiate yourself. I don't recommend this, and certainly not in large quantities, but people have done it successfully.
Honestly, I think borax is a better option all around, provided you aren't prepared to work with hydroxide. If you're really set on this recipe, or you don't want to bother with pH measurements (which I really, really recomend if you're planning on playing with chemicals) you should consider purchasing sodium carbonate from ebay or photographer's formulary.
You'll want some pH paper, or an inexpensive pH meter (I have a Hanna handheld pH/temp meter which you can find at a good pet store), you want the solution to be around pH 10-12, for this, I'd think closer to 12 than 10.
Now, the Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is in itself a very weak developer (in part because it is very acidic). But, in this case I think it's working as the "preservative". I don't know much about preservatives in developers, this is kind of going beyond my scope of understanding. It has something to do with oxygen, and usually the preservative is a sulfite.
In Fundamentals of Photography, 2nd ed. by P.E. Boucher (1947) the preservative is discussed on page114:
The only reason I am assuming this is because ascorbic acid is a strong anti-oxidant. IDK really, it might be a developer, too, since developers tend to synergize.
According to Boucher, even the best developers will leave some unexposed regions will develop out. He goes on to explain that even a totally unexposed film will develop if left in the developer long enough and the longer a film is required to develop, the stronger the fog (p. 114). To address this, a restrainer of potassium bromide is added. Looking through the formulary section of this book, most developers call for between 0.5g and 2g potassium bromide per liter of prepared working solution. If I were to add bromide to a Cafenol-C prep, I'd add 1.5g per liter and go from there.
Be aware, that with proper pH adjustment, the film will develop out much MUCH more rapidly than if it were at a lower pH. Even slight adjustments to pH have enormous consequences on time.
Above all, when getting information on forums double check with others. I'm not immune from providing inaccurate advice by mistake. ALWAYS do research before proceeding, and ask others for their opinions.
Ok. I did some looking around.
All commercial developers consist of a few basic ingredients. Of the most basic, is the developer and the accelerant. The developer is doing the actual reduction while the accelerant is reducing the pH such that it can be done is a matter of minutes, and not hours.
The pH of most developers is around pH 10-12. Catechol is the closest commercial developer to coffee and needs a pretty high pH to work, according to a thread I read over at photo.net. To get this pH, you'll need a strong buffer, such as sodium carbonate: washing soda.
But their isn't anything really special about washing soda either. You can use any sufficient buffer to lower the pH of the developer. You might want to stay away from ammonium hydroxide (cleaning ammonia) just because I've never heard of it being used this way. Commonly they use sodium or potassium hydroxide, which is just hardware store lye and you can find as the Red Devil brand used for cleaning pipes.
Lye is pretty nasty. If you don't respect it, you'll get burned - literally. Always wear gloves, the moment hydroxide touches moisture, it will get hot. It is extremely caustic and will irritate your skin on contact, will blind you if in contact with eyes, and ruin your gut - if not kill you outright in a slow and torturously painful death - if swallowed. It will leave a chemical burns if your hands are wet. Never EVER wash lye off exposed skin with water, instead use distilled white vinegar to neutralize it. Always have a bottle of vinegar, or perhaps better, some acid stop around you when working with lye as a precaution to clean up any spills, stop burns or if it comes into skin contact.
Always add lye to the solution slowly, and NEVER add the solution to the lye. Doing so will result in excess heat which can result in cracked glassware or melted plasticware and spills.
You won't need much lye at all to bring it to pH 10+, we're talking a matter of grams not ounces.
Less effective but probably better than carbonate is borax (sodium borate) which you can find in the laundry department at Wal Mart and some better stocked grocery stores. Borax won't burn you, and can be handled with the same level of precaution as any other laundry soap.
You'll need a bit more borax than you would lye.
The last and less desirable solution would be to make calcium carbonate from baking soda by placing dry baking soda in a pan on high, while stirring. You might want to turn of your carbon monoxide detector, because this is going to emit a lot of carbon that will build on your oven's hood and will make a giant mess, make sure the fan is on and the windows are open, and don't come to me if you asphyxiate yourself. I don't recommend this, and certainly not in large quantities, but people have done it successfully.
Honestly, I think borax is a better option all around, provided you aren't prepared to work with hydroxide. If you're really set on this recipe, or you don't want to bother with pH measurements (which I really, really recomend if you're planning on playing with chemicals) you should consider purchasing sodium carbonate from ebay or photographer's formulary.
You'll want some pH paper, or an inexpensive pH meter (I have a Hanna handheld pH/temp meter which you can find at a good pet store), you want the solution to be around pH 10-12, for this, I'd think closer to 12 than 10.
Now, the Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid is in itself a very weak developer (in part because it is very acidic). But, in this case I think it's working as the "preservative". I don't know much about preservatives in developers, this is kind of going beyond my scope of understanding. It has something to do with oxygen, and usually the preservative is a sulfite.
In Fundamentals of Photography, 2nd ed. by P.E. Boucher (1947) the preservative is discussed on page114:
The only reason I am assuming this is because ascorbic acid is a strong anti-oxidant. IDK really, it might be a developer, too, since developers tend to synergize.
According to Boucher, even the best developers will leave some unexposed regions will develop out. He goes on to explain that even a totally unexposed film will develop if left in the developer long enough and the longer a film is required to develop, the stronger the fog (p. 114). To address this, a restrainer of potassium bromide is added. Looking through the formulary section of this book, most developers call for between 0.5g and 2g potassium bromide per liter of prepared working solution. If I were to add bromide to a Cafenol-C prep, I'd add 1.5g per liter and go from there.
Be aware, that with proper pH adjustment, the film will develop out much MUCH more rapidly than if it were at a lower pH. Even slight adjustments to pH have enormous consequences on time.
Above all, when getting information on forums double check with others. I'm not immune from providing inaccurate advice by mistake. ALWAYS do research before proceeding, and ask others for their opinions.
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