development help

[lane]

i always try to get an exposure thats in between and isnt over or under exposed. With a standard development time like 6.5 min, if I kept it pretty much in between are the photos I got normal result? I just feel like if I expose correctly or near correctly, and develop for a standard time and then use a enlarger for high contrast printing I should get something different. Btw, I use ILFORD MGIV RC DELUXE paper if that helps...

 

[ann]

correctly or near correct or not the same thing.

You need to test your camera equipment to discover how to adjust the metering system.

For example, in one of my classes i had everyone take a meter reading off a spot on the wall in the class room. 18 people, 2 had the same reading.
Does that mean everyone else was wrong. Not necessarily so, as one adjust developing times and determine specific EI for the camera.

That is why it is hard to just throw out a number on the internet and say this is going to be the best combination for an individual.

Meters these days are much better, however, when ever i get a new camera I also test them to discover just what changes I need to make to get the results I want.

 

[timor]

Those pictures you did show us are scans from negs or paper prints ?

 

[amolitor]

Those photos look like you might have some light leaks or a lens with massive amounts of flare (damaged, possibly?) or both.

 

[lane]

correctly or near correct or not the same thing.

You need to test your camera equipment to discover how to adjust the metering system.

For example, in one of my classes i had everyone take a meter reading off a spot on the wall in the class room. 18 people, 2 had the same reading.
Does that mean everyone else was wrong. Not necessarily so, as one adjust developing times and determine specific EI for the camera.

That is why it is hard to just throw out a number on the internet and say this is going to be the best combination for an individual.

Meters these days are much better, however, when ever i get a new camera I also test them to discover just what changes I need to make to get the results I want.

So, youre saying im not choosing the right settings for my aperture/shutter? I always go by the blinking red light which tells me if I need to increase or decrease shutter speed, and I tend to think that 1/250 of a second is gonna work in diffused lighting conditions and in brighter conditions 1/500 1/1000 works (shutter priority)


as far as condition of the item, it was bought from KEH used, it was described as 90% close to new so I'd expect no issues, dunno bout lens flare..might be it. I am using a different film camera soon hopefully it was just the camera, but I dunno. it probably will end up being so and I dont think thats me trying to find an easy excuse cuz it makes no sense I follow the same process and when I used a different camera this never happened.

 

[ann]

When I suggested testing, it is not to see if it is working. but is the information correct for YOUR needs.

For example; when I use Tri X i rate it at 160 in one camera body and 200 in another and the box speed is 400. The recommended development time is 7.5 minutes. With my equipment I have to develop at 6 minutes or my negatives are bullet proof.
Both of these bodies are high end cameras, but they read differently.

I make all of my negatives to print on grade 3 paper, and to do this I have to test them and adjust for my working conditions etc.

 

[lane]

what do you mean by bullet proof?


Also, thanks I think this is probably the problem. So, should I just test rolls until I get the desired results im looking for? How would you suggest I test them adequately? Especially since I got like 6 undeveloped rolls, some at 400, some at 800, and 2 rated at 1600 iso lol.

im gonna use d-76 from now on, any suggestions to start?

 

[ann]

bullet proof, over developed, the negatives are very dense and beyond printing (at least for my work)

There are a variety of methods of testing, the easiest and simplest would be to take a roll of film. Let's say one with an ISO of 400, shoot the same subject matter at the box speed 400 about half of the roll, then change the ISO to 200 and shoot the same subject matter again. Developed at the recommended times for the specific developer you using.

Make a contact print of the results and check the shadows for detail. there should be a difference. If 400 is showing you detail in both shadow and highlights, then that is your EI, if not then changes are 200 will.

We use HC110 solution B for my classes. It can be used as a one shot developer and will last a long time.

If you know someone with a densitometer you can do a more in depth film test.

 

[lane]

bullet proof, over developed, the negatives are very dense and beyond printing (at least for my work)

There are a variety of methods of testing, the easiest and simplest would be to take a roll of film. Let's say one with an ISO of 400, shoot the same subject matter at the box speed 400 about half of the roll, then change the ISO to 200 and shoot the same subject matter again. Developed at the recommended times for the specific developer you using.

Make a contact print of the results and check the shadows for detail. there should be a difference. If 400 is showing you detail in both shadow and highlights, then that is your EI, if not then changes are 200 will.

We use HC110 solution B for my classes. It can be used as a one shot developer and will last a long time.

If you know someone with a densitometer you can do a more in depth film test.

so lets say 200 is my EI. If I shot most of my rolls at 400, 800, and 1600. Is there a way I can develop them so they come out satisfactory?

 

[ann]

Each would have to be developed using different types, and to get the best results you would test at each EI and figure out what is giving you the best results. There isn't a best answer here.

Rule of thumb for extending development when changing ISO, 25% for each pushed stopped.

However , just don't blindly assume your EI is 200, you need to test to be sure, it could be 400. However, those images you posted look underexposed which is one clue.

 

[lane]

Each would have to be developed using different types, and to get the best results you would test at each EI and figure out what is giving you the best results. There isn't a best answer here.

Rule of thumb for extending development when changing ISO, 25% for each pushed stopped.

However , just don't blindly assume your EI is 200, you need to test to be sure, it could be 400. However, those images you posted look underexposed which is one clue.

ok, so ill first develop the one roll at 200 and 400 so i can check and if not exposed well, I'll increase development for the following rolls at 800, 1600. Did you mean different times? I dont get what you mean different types. I figure you mean adjust time based upon how underexposed the first roll is.

 

[ann]

sorry can't type, i did mean different times.

If these rolls have already been exposed you aren't going to be able to shoot at 200/400. that is for the test roll.

If these are already shot , then i would start with the one at 400 and check it out and go from there, increasing the development types

Since i am guessing your new at this it may take some time to learn to "read" the negative to see just what the contrast level and detail level is being captured. Just keep at it, keep some good notes so you can remember just what you have done. (folks think they will remember, but you just don't !)

 

[bsinmich]

forget the presoak. That has the effect of dilutinig the developer that comes in contact with the film right at the start.

 

[photozs]

Actually presoaking works well for short develop times like those for T-max or for pull processing using another proprietary brand.

 

[photozs]

yes, the negative, so should I just develop for less time? I plan to use D-76 from now on. I'm kinda confused as to how overdevelopment would achieve this if developing more is suppose to bring out contrast.

More development = less contrast. The longer the development the more the silver is activated.

Pushing film (ie shooting 400 as 1600) will give you more contrast but require more development as the film has been exposed to less light.