DSLR for sports photography?

Discussion in 'Photography Equipment & Products' started by Rekd, Aug 13, 2009.

  1. Rekd

    Rekd TPF Noob!

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    For the last several years I've made due as an amateur photographer with a Sony Cyber-shot. I'm doing a lot more motorsports now and the old clunker just isn't cutting it any more.

    I want to be able to shoot more than, what...? 2.5 SPF (Seconds Per Frame... :grumpy: )? I've managed to get good shots but I have to work my butt off, and I've obviously lost way more than I've got.

    I've looked around and it seems the Nikon D90 might work well. It looks like one of the better lower-end DSLRs. I'm not interested in spending more than a grand for a body and I want the ability to use an MF lens, something I miss with my EOS 750 and 500.

    Of course I've considered a Cannon, but the people I've talked to in the business mostly use Nikon. So I'm not sure what the comparable Cannon DSLR would be to something like the D90.

    I haven't put my hands on either yet, and I'd like to play touchie-feelie with them both at the same time.

    So price being a factor and everything else considered, what is a comparable Cannon to the Nikon D90?

    TYIA.
     
  2. usayit

    usayit No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Just have to ask... have you already planned out your purchase in terms of glass? The glass itself is more important than the choice of DSLR body.
     
  3. gryphonslair99

    gryphonslair99 Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    For sports photography the 50D and the 1D MkIII are the bodies that can do the job. The 40D/30D are also good bodies. You want to stay away from entry level bodies. I have yet to find one that has an AF system that is fast enough to keep up with sports. The 1D MkIII is out of your price range. A XXD body either used or new would be good. I have a 40D & a 30D as my second and third bodies.

    With that being said, good/fast glass is more important in sports photography. It is where you will spend a lot of money. Sports is my main focus. If you look at my gear list you will see what I am talking about in terms of glass. I own nothing that is slower than f2.8. That does not come cheap. But it allows me to shoot in the worst of venues.

    If you are only shooting daytime events with plenty of light, f2.8 glass is not as important, however having that fast of glass, even in good daylight allows for shutter speeds that will not only freeze the action but action you would not expect with slower shutter speeds.

    Fast frames per second can be useful, but the Spray & Pray method is not ideal for sports photography. Knowing the sport,the participants and what they do best allows you to anticipate that exact shot that you want and get it where spray and pray may or may not get that exact moment.
     
  4. PhotoXopher

    PhotoXopher TPF Noob!

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    Nikon D3 or D3X with 70-200 f/2.8 lens :D
     
  5. Rekd

    Rekd TPF Noob!

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    Is the glass that much different between Nikon and Canon (in terms of $$)?

    I don't plan on spending more for the lens' than I am for the body right now. I have heard that some Canon DSLRs will work with my lenses that I run on the EOS' which is part of the reason I'm considering the Canon, but that's a topic for another thread. I also know the D90 can be had with a set of lenses for just a few hundred more.

    Considering my still relative newbieness I'm Ok with an inferior lens for now and am more interested in the camera's function and reliability.

    I'm sure I can buy very good glass for either camera once I'm ready to move on to that level of expertise. ;)
     
  6. usayit

    usayit No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Personally, I would save for the best glass you can afford and then consider used options for the DSLR to go with the glass. It will net you better results than a good camera with inferior glass.
     
  7. PhotoXopher

    PhotoXopher TPF Noob!

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    D90 does 4.5 frames per second, I've shot little league games with it and my Sigma 18-250 with some good results.
     
  8. Rekd

    Rekd TPF Noob!

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    Lots of good info to consider, thanks! What is the price range of the cheaper upper-end bodies? If it's close to a grand and I can get a lens(es) for just a little more I might consider it.

    Imma go make a pot of spaghetti for me and the boys and do some more research.
     
  9. Rekd

    Rekd TPF Noob!

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    +1

    I don't want to say this out loud, but I've found that when I'm working corners or jumps, I find a spot on the track where I want a good shot and focus on that, then move the FOV to where the vehicle will pass through and I take the shot.

    This is part of the reason I wanted something I could put an MF lens on. Maybe I just need to rent something with a better AF motor and see the difference.
     
  10. robbie_vlad

    robbie_vlad TPF Noob!

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    I got my 50D for under a grand. I got my 70-200 2.8 for under a grand. I would say that the lens is more important that they body, so in your case I would spend around $1000 on a good, fast lens, then a bit more ($400ish) on a decen body (30D).
     
  11. KmH

    KmH Helping photographers learn to fish Supporting Member

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    The D3X is a studio camera. It has neither the ISO nor the fps of the D3.
     
  12. PhotoXopher

    PhotoXopher TPF Noob!

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    Learn something new every day!
     

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