DSLR shutter curtains/shutter speed

[KmH]

Understanding how your camera works can help you make better photos:

 

[Rick50]

I saw this video yesterday on Priolite, a new flash that can sync to 1/8000 second. Looks promising.

 

[photo1x1.com]

I saw this video yesterday on Priolite, a new flash that can sync to 1/8000 second. Looks promising.

More and more units can do that lately.
Sometimes you only have to change your transmitter and and it will work. Years ago I bought very, very old generators with flashlights that hand long flash durations. Whith my new transmitter from Elinchrom I can use them at 1/8000sec easily.
And for example with the elinchrom Quadras and the right flashhead you can do that too. Same from Profoto and others.

 

[petrochemist]

There are three ways to get flash sync at high shutter speeds.
1/ use a leaf shutter rather than a focal plane shutter. This is the original way, and IMO still the best, but limited to the slower speeds that leaf shutters can manage.

2/ Strobe the flash so it lights each section of the sensor as the gap between curtains passes over it. Getting strobe rate right here must be critical but this is apparently the way my HSS flash, available since 2007, works (I suspect the pulses actually run into each other which effectively makes it into option 3/). Effects similar to rolling shutter might be seen.

3/ Increase the time of the light output of the flash dramatically so it lights the subject (to a similar extent) all the time the curtains are moving (roughly the cameras standard sync speed) This will prevent the flash stopping movement as usual. Rolling shutter effects might again be noticeable.

The documentation on my HSS flash doesn't mention any restriction on the fastest shutter speeds it works with so it should be fine at the cameras maximum of 1/8000. If a ten year old flash (and not even the top of the range model) can manage it there's nothing new in that.

 

[photo1x1.com]

There are three ways to get flash sync at high shutter speeds.
1/ use a leaf shutter rather than a focal plane shutter. This is the original way, and IMO still the best, but limited to the slower speeds that leaf shutters can manage.

2/ Strobe the flash so it lights each section of the sensor as the gap between curtains passes over it. Getting strobe rate right here must be critical but this is apparently the way my HSS flash, available since 2007, works (I suspect the pulses actually run into each other which effectively makes it into option 3/). Effects similar to rolling shutter might be seen.

3/ Increase the time of the light output of the flash dramatically so it lights the subject (to a similar extent) all the time the curtains are moving (roughly the cameras standard sync speed) This will prevent the flash stopping movement as usual. Rolling shutter effects might again be noticeable.

The documentation on my HSS flash doesn't mention any restriction on the fastest shutter speeds it works with so it should be fine at the cameras maximum of 1/8000. If a ten year old flash (and not even the top of the range model) can manage it there's nothing new in that.

Hey there. The "new" thing is, that it has become more easy to use, more portable (well, not in regard to HSS speedlites) and most of all more powerful. My old 6.000WS generator doesn´t output much more light than my 400WS HS-Sync enabled battery powered flash.

 

[petrochemist]

Hey there. The "new" thing is, that it has become more easy to use, more portable (well, not in regard to HSS speedlites) and most of all more powerful. My old 6.000WS generator doesn´t output much more light than my 400WS HS-Sync enabled battery powered flash.

Guess I should have waited till after I could watch the video (No good at work)
Seems they mentioned all my major points early on