Enduro again...

[deja vu]

 

[JimmyO]

Love emm

But i would rather not see the light/light stand in number 2

 

[Shibby!]

Looks great!! That first shot was right before you got really dirty? haha.

It was worth it. Love the off camera flash. Really nice work with these. Keep it up.

The only thing I can offer is maybe considering to turn down the flash a bit. Just to highlight, then add shadows.

The next hare scramble around here I'll get out and take some pics too! I'll make sure to post so you guys can view.

 

[deja vu]

Looks great!! That first shot was right before you got really dirty? haha.

that's right lol

yeah the flash, I wanted to use the flash as main light, but ur right, it's slightly too bright...

did you use a flash for your mx-pics? they're fu... awesome btw :thumbup:

 

[Shibby!]

that's right lol

yeah the flash, I wanted to use the flash as main light, but ur right, it's slightly too bright...

did you use a flash for your mx-pics? they're fu... awesome btw :thumbup:

Thanks.

Yup, for my second posting I was using one off camera flash. I broke my mount on my other cheap trigger so I couldn't use my second. I'm waiting for the radiopoppers.

Not sure if it's possibly but because you are using two flashes could you use one for fill light behind or around you somewhere and then use the second one for rim light? This way it would isolate the rider & bike from the background.

How close was that front tire to you? lol. Looks good but depending on how fast that guy was moving, it must have been close!

Finally, what triggers are you using and how reliable to do you find them? I find my e-bay triggers are decent, but the range is poor.

 

[deja vu]

Thanks.

Yup, for my second posting I was using one off camera flash. I broke my mount on my other cheap trigger so I couldn't use my second. I'm waiting for the radiopoppers.

Not sure if it's possibly but because you are using two flashes could you use one for fill light behind or around you somewhere and then use the second one for rim light? This way it would isolate the rider & bike from the background.

How close was that front tire to you? lol. Looks good but depending on how fast that guy was moving, it must have been close!

Finally, what triggers are you using and how reliable to do you find them? I find my e-bay triggers are decent, but the range is poor.

now thats pretty cool, but how did you do it with almost no shadows?

thats a good idea with the rim and fill light... will try next time.

well, it was about 20cm, but he was not so fast. hehe

well, i have one elinchrome flashhead and a speedlite. the elinchrome i trigger with skyport and the speedlight with infrared. skyport works alway, but with infrared, if u have strong sun or difficult light, it doesent work and if u r more then 10m away u can also forget it...

 

[Shibby!]

now thats pretty cool, but how did you do it with almost no shadows?

thats a good idea with the rim and fill light... will try next time.

well, it was about 20cm, but he was not so fast. hehe

well, i have one elinchrome flashhead and a speedlite. the elinchrome i trigger with skyport and the speedlight with infrared. skyport works alway, but with infrared, if u have strong sun or difficult light, it doesent work and if u r more then 10m away u can also forget it...

Ahh.. Yea, that's why I don't want a 430EX, because I've heard complaints of the IR triggering. Most of my lighting is outside and often in sunny areas. I remember the days of using the t.v remote when the sun was on the t.v. Didn't work worth a damn!

I have a 580EX, an old Canon flash, and the *shock* Nikon SB-28 which are cheap on e-bay as compared to the 430's, 580's, 550's and 420's. I like the Nikon because it goes out of sleep with the trigger, unlike my Canon. I have to figure that out yet. . .

I was reading into the skyports. They seem to be a viable, and slightly cheaper option the pocket wizards. I'd love either of them to be honest, but I'm hoping the radio poppers which are still slated to come out this summer to be around the $80-175 range for 2 receivers and transmitter. That would be ideal! I like the idea of the P1's, but I don't have much use for on camera flashes.

There are no shadows on those pictures because of the flash. Basically I was only using it to fill in the shadows of the sun which was on the opposite side of the subject, shooting into the sun and using it to do highlighting. I metered for the picture so the sky wasn't blown out, but the ground wasn't too dark, then I used the flash behind and a bit higher at wide angle to fill in the shadow. I try to shoot when the sun is setting or lower in the sky so it's at a low angle and not as harsh at mid day. I beleive my flash was only at 1/4 power.

You have to think about the power. I'm by no means good, but experiment and look at your results to judge. The more I do this, the better I get. I always think I have to start at 3/4 power, but always meter down. Almost always end around 1/8-1/2 power. Just have to think it's the same as shooting at night, but you aren't overpowering the sun, you're simply matching it, or almost matching, to remove the shadows. In close range with bare flashes, you don't need a lot of power to do this. Also, zoom on the flash affects power a lot too. If you are shooting at 24mm at 1/2 power, choking the down to 50mm really focuses the light.

And one last thing I have learnt from reading which is different from what I first thought. Higher power does not "freeze" the action. Lower power has a shorter "burn" time so it's actually better. Getting away with 1/4 power can freeze the subject better at 1/200 (or 1/250), and you have faster recycle time to catch the next rider!

Keep it up. I'm by no means an expert, but just fool around and try to improve my results. I also really liked your posting of Zurich. I thought those were great pictures! Very powerful and even though I didn't know what they were protesting, I still felt they represented the action well.

 

[Snyder]

Flash can be a great tool to help create amazing photos. However to be effectively using the flash you want to give the effect like you not even using flash at all. All of these photos are way to hot from the flash. Exactly like the last series you posted. Tone down the flash alot your result should be better.

 

[250Gimp]

I like #1 the best, as it has very nice, almost natural lighting.

#4 would be my second fav, as it is only a little hot on the flash for me, but really well captured.

The others are a bit strong on the flash for my liking.

Cheers

 

[deja vu]

Ahh.. Yea, that's why I don't want a 430EX, because I've heard complaints of the IR triggering. Most of my lighting is outside and often in sunny areas. I remember the days of using the t.v remote when the sun was on the t.v. Didn't work worth a damn!

I have a 580EX, an old Canon flash, and the *shock* Nikon SB-28 which are cheap on e-bay as compared to the 430's, 580's, 550's and 420's. I like the Nikon because it goes out of sleep with the trigger, unlike my Canon. I have to figure that out yet. . .

I was reading into the skyports. They seem to be a viable, and slightly cheaper option the pocket wizards. I'd love either of them to be honest, but I'm hoping the radio poppers which are still slated to come out this summer to be around the $80-175 range for 2 receivers and transmitter. That would be ideal! I like the idea of the P1's, but I don't have much use for on camera flashes.

There are no shadows on those pictures because of the flash. Basically I was only using it to fill in the shadows of the sun which was on the opposite side of the subject, shooting into the sun and using it to do highlighting. I metered for the picture so the sky wasn't blown out, but the ground wasn't too dark, then I used the flash behind and a bit higher at wide angle to fill in the shadow. I try to shoot when the sun is setting or lower in the sky so it's at a low angle and not as harsh at mid day. I beleive my flash was only at 1/4 power.

You have to think about the power. I'm by no means good, but experiment and look at your results to judge. The more I do this, the better I get. I always think I have to start at 3/4 power, but always meter down. Almost always end around 1/8-1/2 power. Just have to think it's the same as shooting at night, but you aren't overpowering the sun, you're simply matching it, or almost matching, to remove the shadows. In close range with bare flashes, you don't need a lot of power to do this. Also, zoom on the flash affects power a lot too. If you are shooting at 24mm at 1/2 power, choking the down to 50mm really focuses the light.

And one last thing I have learnt from reading which is different from what I first thought. Higher power does not "freeze" the action. Lower power has a shorter "burn" time so it's actually better. Getting away with 1/4 power can freeze the subject better at 1/200 (or 1/250), and you have faster recycle time to catch the next rider!

Keep it up. I'm by no means an expert, but just fool around and try to improve my results. I also really liked your posting of Zurich. I thought those were great pictures! Very powerful and even though I didn't know what they were protesting, I still felt they represented the action well.

Ir-triggering is awesome, when it works lol I sometimes also use a offcamera shoe.

what exactly does out of sleep means? do canon and nikon speedlites work togheter?

I'm not shure if the skyport work wither other flashes then elinchrome btw. but they r a lot cheaper then pocket wizards an works over a distance of about 60m.

well, i understand, but did u just use sofbox or just the naked flash? and which exposure time did u use? I don't understand why this rider on the first picture in ur motocross thread is frozen. i always have problems with that...

well, thanks for ur answers, i think this will help me a lot for the next time, if u r an expert or not

 

[Doug]

Hey Deja Vu, Great photos, especially #1

 

[Shibby!]

Ir-triggering is awesome, when it works lol I sometimes also use a offcamera shoe.

what exactly does out of sleep means? do canon and nikon speedlites work togheter?

I'm not shure if the skyport work wither other flashes then elinchrome btw. but they r a lot cheaper then pocket wizards an works over a distance of about 60m.

well, i understand, but did u just use sofbox or just the naked flash? and which exposure time did u use? I don't understand why this rider on the first picture in ur motocross thread is frozen. i always have problems with that...

well, thanks for ur answers, i think this will help me a lot for the next time, if u r an expert or not

Hey,

By "sleep", I mean the flash shuts down or goes into energy conserving mode. The Nikon SB-28 does the same thing, but a flash trigger will turn it back on, where as the Canon 580EX will not. I've been meaning to look into it and see if I can adjust the settings to allow it to turn back on like the Nikon.

The two flashes are not compatible. I use them with radio triggers so it doesn't matter what flash I have. They are all set manually. The Nikon does work on the Canon hotshoe, but once again, all manual settings and no ETTL.

From what I have read, Skyports have both a kit (RX) that work with Elinchrom heads, or a standard kit to work with all flash units. The RX will not work with other units. I'm still debating to go with an expensive tiggering system, or wait till the RadioPopper Jr.'s come out. They seem to be lacking a lot of info on these units if they still plan a release for summer. Problem with the Skyports (and maybe PW?) is that they require a PC cord to trigger the flash. Canon in all it's brilliant ways forgot to add a PC plug on their once top of the line 580EX flash. As far as I am aware, the 580EX II has one.

As for my one picture thread, there are two pictures which I think you may or may not be talking about.

This picture was taken at 10mm. The wider the angle, the slower the shutter speed you can get away with. Problem is I was within 1 to 3 feet of these guys going around the corner. I was using 1/200 (my max sync speed) with a bare flash about 1/4 power on a stand behind me, shooting down over my head. F-stop was probably 3.5.

This picture didn't have a flash. I was too far away for my crappy triggers to work(it was setup in the centre of the turn though). I shot this with my 70-200 trackside down the hill of the rider.

Not sure if those were the pictures you were talking about. If you are trying to freeze the action, fastest sync speed should be used at your largest aperature, and the lower the power on the flash the better. From your pictures it looks like they may have been around 3/4? That might create some blur because the burn time at that power is a lot longer then the quick flash of 1/4 power. The flash freezes the rider, then the 1/200 or longer allows ambiate light to filter in. The added shutter speed may or may not blur the rider a bit.

 

[deja vu]

Hey,

By "sleep", I mean the flash shuts down or goes into energy conserving mode. The Nikon SB-28 does the same thing, but a flash trigger will turn it back on, where as the Canon 580EX will not. I've been meaning to look into it and see if I can adjust the settings to allow it to turn back on like the Nikon.

The two flashes are not compatible. I use them with radio triggers so it doesn't matter what flash I have. They are all set manually. The Nikon does work on the Canon hotshoe, but once again, all manual settings and no ETTL.

From what I have read, Skyports have both a kit (RX) that work with Elinchrom heads, or a standard kit to work with all flash units. The RX will not work with other units. I'm still debating to go with an expensive tiggering system, or wait till the RadioPopper Jr.'s come out. They seem to be lacking a lot of info on these units if they still plan a release for summer. Problem with the Skyports (and maybe PW?) is that they require a PC cord to trigger the flash. Canon in all it's brilliant ways forgot to add a PC plug on their once top of the line 580EX flash. As far as I am aware, the 580EX II has one.

As for my one picture thread, there are two pictures which I think you may or may not be talking about.

This picture was taken at 10mm. The wider the angle, the slower the shutter speed you can get away with. Problem is I was within 1 to 3 feet of these guys going around the corner. I was using 1/200 (my max sync speed) with a bare flash about 1/4 power on a stand behind me, shooting down over my head. F-stop was probably 3.5.

This picture didn't have a flash. I was too far away for my crappy triggers to work(it was setup in the centre of the turn though). I shot this with my 70-200 trackside down the hill of the rider.

Not sure if those were the pictures you were talking about. If you are trying to freeze the action, fastest sync speed should be used at your largest aperature, and the lower the power on the flash the better. From your pictures it looks like they may have been around 3/4? That might create some blur because the burn time at that power is a lot longer then the quick flash of 1/4 power. The flash freezes the rider, then the 1/200 or longer allows ambiate light to filter in. The added shutter speed may or may not blur the rider a bit.

yeah right, i don't have this problem with my speedlites with the st-e2. i can turn it back on with it.

yes thats right, i have one elinchrome head and speedlites. rx are really really expensive, and the batterie is really heavy. but the have a lot more power then my speedlites - thats really useful if u take shoots straigth to the sun.

yes, i meant the first picture. thats awesome. I think that could be the problem - i shot with ettl. next time i ll try it all in manual mode. do u have a crop factor with the 10mm?

thanks for ur answers!!!

 

[pm63]

As others have said, you really need to tone down the flash, it's way too harsh and unnatural looking.

I do like the first one though.

 

[Shibby!]

yeah right, i don't have this problem with my speedlites with the st-e2. i can turn it back on with it.

yes thats right, i have one elinchrome head and speedlites. rx are really really expensive, and the batterie is really heavy. but the have a lot more power then my speedlites - thats really useful if u take shoots straigth to the sun.

yes, i meant the first picture. thats awesome. I think that could be the problem - i shot with ettl. next time i ll try it all in manual mode. do u have a crop factor with the 10mm?

thanks for ur answers!!!

Canon must not have thought about those without the ST-E2 when programming their flash, unless it can be set off some how.

Yup, the 10mm has a crop factor, so it's equivalent to the 16mm on a full frame. It's pretty wide =) About the same as human vision but all the peripheral stuff in focus. Probaby 165 degrees or so.

Yea, I don't use ETTL much, but when I have tried I did adjust the flash exposure on the camera to turn it down. This will only change your one flash (the ST-E2 fired one), but you should be able to turn that right down. If your flashes are set and you're located in one place for awhile, manually setting them isn't too much of a hassle. takes a few shots to get within range, then some fine tuning and you're good to go!

I just took my flashes out today to do some portrait type work. I'm not really one for picturing people, but I think they are halfass decent! I'll be posting them in the people forum once they upload.