Enduro again...

Discussion in 'Photojournalism & Sports Gallery' started by deja vu, May 12, 2008.

  1. deja vu

    deja vu TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. JimmyO

    JimmyO TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2008
    Messages:
    2,132
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    NJ
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    Love emm

    But i would rather not see the light/light stand in number 2
     
  3. Shibby!

    Shibby! TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2007
    Messages:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Calgary, Ab. Canada
    Looks great!! That first shot was right before you got really dirty? haha.

    It was worth it. Love the off camera flash. Really nice work with these. Keep it up.

    The only thing I can offer is maybe considering to turn down the flash a bit. Just to highlight, then add shadows.

    The next hare scramble around here I'll get out and take some pics too! I'll make sure to post so you guys can view.
     
  4. deja vu

    deja vu TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    that's right lol

    yeah the flash, I wanted to use the flash as main light, but ur right, it's slightly too bright...

    did you use a flash for your mx-pics? they're fu... awesome btw :thumbup:
     
  5. Shibby!

    Shibby! TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2007
    Messages:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Calgary, Ab. Canada

    Thanks.

    Yup, for my second posting I was using one off camera flash. I broke my mount on my other cheap trigger so I couldn't use my second. I'm waiting for the radiopoppers.

    Not sure if it's possibly but because you are using two flashes could you use one for fill light behind or around you somewhere and then use the second one for rim light? This way it would isolate the rider & bike from the background.

    How close was that front tire to you? lol. Looks good but depending on how fast that guy was moving, it must have been close!

    Finally, what triggers are you using and how reliable to do you find them? I find my e-bay triggers are decent, but the range is poor.
     
  6. deja vu

    deja vu TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    now thats pretty cool, but how did you do it with almost no shadows?

    thats a good idea with the rim and fill light... will try next time.

    well, it was about 20cm, but he was not so fast. hehe

    well, i have one elinchrome flashhead and a speedlite. the elinchrome i trigger with skyport and the speedlight with infrared. skyport works alway, but with infrared, if u have strong sun or difficult light, it doesent work and if u r more then 10m away u can also forget it...
     
  7. Shibby!

    Shibby! TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2007
    Messages:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Calgary, Ab. Canada
    Ahh.. Yea, that's why I don't want a 430EX, because I've heard complaints of the IR triggering. Most of my lighting is outside and often in sunny areas. I remember the days of using the t.v remote when the sun was on the t.v. Didn't work worth a damn!

    I have a 580EX, an old Canon flash, and the *shock* Nikon SB-28 which are cheap on e-bay as compared to the 430's, 580's, 550's and 420's. I like the Nikon because it goes out of sleep with the trigger, unlike my Canon. I have to figure that out yet. . .

    I was reading into the skyports. They seem to be a viable, and slightly cheaper option the pocket wizards. I'd love either of them to be honest, but I'm hoping the radio poppers which are still slated to come out this summer to be around the $80-175 range for 2 receivers and transmitter. That would be ideal! I like the idea of the P1's, but I don't have much use for on camera flashes.

    There are no shadows on those pictures because of the flash. Basically I was only using it to fill in the shadows of the sun which was on the opposite side of the subject, shooting into the sun and using it to do highlighting. I metered for the picture so the sky wasn't blown out, but the ground wasn't too dark, then I used the flash behind and a bit higher at wide angle to fill in the shadow. I try to shoot when the sun is setting or lower in the sky so it's at a low angle and not as harsh at mid day. I beleive my flash was only at 1/4 power.

    You have to think about the power. I'm by no means good, but experiment and look at your results to judge. The more I do this, the better I get. I always think I have to start at 3/4 power, but always meter down. Almost always end around 1/8-1/2 power. Just have to think it's the same as shooting at night, but you aren't overpowering the sun, you're simply matching it, or almost matching, to remove the shadows. In close range with bare flashes, you don't need a lot of power to do this. Also, zoom on the flash affects power a lot too. If you are shooting at 24mm at 1/2 power, choking the down to 50mm really focuses the light.

    And one last thing I have learnt from reading which is different from what I first thought. Higher power does not "freeze" the action. Lower power has a shorter "burn" time so it's actually better. Getting away with 1/4 power can freeze the subject better at 1/200 (or 1/250), and you have faster recycle time to catch the next rider!

    Keep it up. I'm by no means an expert, but just fool around and try to improve my results. I also really liked your posting of Zurich. I thought those were great pictures! Very powerful and even though I didn't know what they were protesting, I still felt they represented the action well.
     
  8. Snyder

    Snyder TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Jul 21, 2007
    Messages:
    411
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    I travel all around the world
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    Flash can be a great tool to help create amazing photos. However to be effectively using the flash you want to give the effect like you not even using flash at all. All of these photos are way to hot from the flash. Exactly like the last series you posted. Tone down the flash alot your result should be better.
     
  9. 250Gimp

    250Gimp TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Oct 3, 2006
    Messages:
    1,031
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Chelsea, Quebec
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos OK to edit
    I like #1 the best, as it has very nice, almost natural lighting.

    #4 would be my second fav, as it is only a little hot on the flash for me, but really well captured.

    The others are a bit strong on the flash for my liking.

    Cheers
     
  10. deja vu

    deja vu TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2007
    Messages:
    55
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Switzerland
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos NOT OK to edit
    Ir-triggering is awesome, when it works lol I sometimes also use a offcamera shoe.

    what exactly does out of sleep means? do canon and nikon speedlites work togheter?

    I'm not shure if the skyport work wither other flashes then elinchrome btw. but they r a lot cheaper then pocket wizards an works over a distance of about 60m.

    well, i understand, but did u just use sofbox or just the naked flash? and which exposure time did u use? I don't understand why this rider on the first picture in ur motocross thread is frozen. i always have problems with that...

    well, thanks for ur answers, i think this will help me a lot for the next time, if u r an expert or not ;)
     
  11. Doug

    Doug TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2007
    Messages:
    2,053
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Clearwater, Florida
    Can others edit my Photos:
    Photos OK to edit
    Hey Deja Vu, Great photos, especially #1
     
  12. Shibby!

    Shibby! TPF Noob!

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2007
    Messages:
    283
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Calgary, Ab. Canada
    Hey,

    By "sleep", I mean the flash shuts down or goes into energy conserving mode. The Nikon SB-28 does the same thing, but a flash trigger will turn it back on, where as the Canon 580EX will not. I've been meaning to look into it and see if I can adjust the settings to allow it to turn back on like the Nikon.

    The two flashes are not compatible. I use them with radio triggers so it doesn't matter what flash I have. They are all set manually. The Nikon does work on the Canon hotshoe, but once again, all manual settings and no ETTL.

    From what I have read, Skyports have both a kit (RX) that work with Elinchrom heads, or a standard kit to work with all flash units. The RX will not work with other units. I'm still debating to go with an expensive tiggering system, or wait till the RadioPopper Jr.'s come out. They seem to be lacking a lot of info on these units if they still plan a release for summer. Problem with the Skyports (and maybe PW?) is that they require a PC cord to trigger the flash. Canon in all it's brilliant ways forgot to add a PC plug on their once top of the line 580EX flash. As far as I am aware, the 580EX II has one.

    As for my one picture thread, there are two pictures which I think you may or may not be talking about.

    [​IMG]

    This picture was taken at 10mm. The wider the angle, the slower the shutter speed you can get away with. Problem is I was within 1 to 3 feet of these guys going around the corner. I was using 1/200 (my max sync speed) with a bare flash about 1/4 power on a stand behind me, shooting down over my head. F-stop was probably 3.5.

    [​IMG]

    This picture didn't have a flash. I was too far away for my crappy triggers to work(it was setup in the centre of the turn though). I shot this with my 70-200 trackside down the hill of the rider.

    Not sure if those were the pictures you were talking about. If you are trying to freeze the action, fastest sync speed should be used at your largest aperature, and the lower the power on the flash the better. From your pictures it looks like they may have been around 3/4? That might create some blur because the burn time at that power is a lot longer then the quick flash of 1/4 power. The flash freezes the rider, then the 1/200 or longer allows ambiate light to filter in. The added shutter speed may or may not blur the rider a bit.
     

Share This Page