Film brand question.

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

What are the advantages of using specific brands of film? I've hear =d that Fujifilm has good greens and Kodak has good reds. Just looking for some clarification.

Also is it bad to refridgerate film which I have exposed?

 

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

Amen. *bump*

 

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

Still not getting answers.........

 

[Sw1tchFX]

It hasn't even been 2 hours, how impatient are you?

Each film is different, no film is 'better' then the other, you just choose what's most appropriate for what you're going to be doing.

Buy an assortment of films and look at the differences.

 

[Smith2688]

Every film is different. Even within brands there are quite the range of differences. You have to experiment to find which film renders things the way you like.

 

[christopher walrath]

Yeah, give us a chance to get around to it. Ffilm takes longer but the rewards are greater than digital IMHO. I know that with some Kodak films there is less seperation in green and blue values at a slower than 1/60 shutter speed. I found that out by researching the film manufacturer's publications accessible online for the public. Check it out. And as to storage, nothing wrong with refrigerating after exposure. In fact it is recommended for film that isn't going to be processed soon. But I wouldn't worry about it much. I live in Delaware, Home of the Flat and the one-laned, and I have rolls of 100TMX 120 roll film that was exposed a year ago that I am now getting around to processing myself. Don't rush the digital thing. Spend $350 and get enough film, chems and darkroom gear for the first year. The next year it will be cheaper since you already have the gear. It is cheap, fun and the learning curve to process your own B&W film is like zero to insane. It's easy. Good luck.

 

[Helen B]

" Also is it bad to refridgerate film which I have exposed?"

Whether you should refrigerate exposed film depends a lot on what sort of film it is, how hot it is, how humid it is, what format and how long it will be before it will be developed.

Very high speed film should be treated with more care than slower film if you are concerned about getting the most shadow detail - the shadows will show latent image loss first because very small latent image centres are less stable than larger ones.

Before refrigerating exposed film you should make sure that it is well sealed and that there is as little included air as possible, especially in hot, humid countries. Though I have never had the problem, I have read reports of problems with refrigerating exposed sheet film in humid conditions.

When I worked in SE Asia if possible I routinely refrigerated all my film, both exposed and unexposed, unless it was going to be used or developed that day.

Some films are particularly stable after exposure. From my own experience on extended trips in tropical countries, Tri-X and Kodachrome are two of the best and Agfa APX400 was one of the worst.

As far as colour reproduction goes, there are general differences between Kodak and Fuji, and those differences are most obvious when using reversal film but they are also present in negative film. As already mentioned, the best way is to do some side-by-side tests to see which you prefer.

"I know that with some Kodak films there is less seperation in green and blue values at a slower than 1/60 shutter speed. I found that out by researching the film manufacturer's publications accessible online for the public."

That's interesting. Which films, and which publications?

Best,
Helen

 

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

Thanks guys.

 

[christopher walrath]

You are welcome.

 

[Judge Sharpe]

I have found as a general rule that Fuji is warmer. Kodak is cooler. easy to correct with filters, but I preferred Fuji. It seemed to stand up to cold and hot better, and was more predictable. IMHO
KJudge Sharpe

 

[Valethar]

You also want to stay away from the store branded stuff. Even if it's made by the same manufacturer of the brand label (Kodak, Fuji, etc) it's not the same. You get what you pay for.

 

[Uglulyx Takes Photos Too]

So you mean avoid stuff like Walmart films?? (If they made film with walmart on the roll.)

 

[Valethar]

Yes.

If you want good photos, you need good film. I've always had good luck with Kodak and Fuji. On the few occasions where I had to settle for Walmart, etc, I wasn't at all pleased with the results.

It may seem like you're getting a deal, but you're really gambling.

 

[bhop]

I just started using pro grade films (kodak portra, fuji 800z.. ) and the quality difference makes it worth the extra price. For b/w I like Kodak Tri-X and Ilford HP5.. depending on whichever I have on hand at the time.. they're pretty similar.

 

[Alpha]

For color neg I much prefer the Kodak Portra line to the Fuji stuff, though Fuji 160c is nice. In slide, Fuji Provia is my choice. Kodak Ektachrome Plus is very nice too. Velvia for super-saturated color and Astia for the natural stuff.

In B&W I'm a Fuji fan all the way for general purpose stuff. Neopan is amazing...you can shoot it down to EI25 if you develop right, though it flattens out a bit. I usually find it contrasty enough at box speed, and sometimes shoot a bit slower. I've been developing in HC-110 dil B lately with good results. I would strongly advise NOT developing in TMAX developer...constrast goes through the f-ing roof. Talk to your local lab and ask them what they're developing in if you don't develop yourself. If they're using boiling-hot TMAX do yourself a favor and shoot at EI64. Ilford's PanF, if you like slower films, I think is probably the most amazing slow emulsion on the market. Really rich blacks, gorgeous contrast, nice highlight detail.