Focus problems

Irina_Ser

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Hi there! I took a couple of photos in macro, but I would like to improve it. How can I reach the more focused picture? How to improve sharpness? And how to make the background more blurred?

Thanks a lot in advance!
 

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first picture
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 40 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/30 sec, f/7.1, ISO 1600
Flash: Off, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 42cm, with a depth of field of about 2.8cm, (from about 14mm before the focus point to about 15mm after)
AF Area Mode: Auto-area


second picture
Target image: http://www.thephotoforum.com/attachments/dsc_0499-jpg.138282/
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 50 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/250 sec, f/8, ISO 100
Flash: Auto, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 67cm, with a depth of field of about 5.3cm, (from about 2.6cm before the focus point to about 2.8cm after)
AF Area Mode: Single Area
 
first picture
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 40 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/30 sec, f/7.1, ISO 1600
Flash: Off, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 42cm, with a depth of field of about 2.8cm, (from about 14mm before the focus point to about 15mm after)
AF Area Mode: Auto-area


second picture
Target image: http://www.thephotoforum.com/attachments/dsc_0499-jpg.138282/
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 50 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/250 sec, f/8, ISO 100
Flash: Auto, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 67cm, with a depth of field of about 5.3cm, (from about 2.6cm before the focus point to about 2.8cm after)
AF Area Mode: Single Area

Wow, pretty clear instructions! Unfortunately, I couldn't retake the shots, but I`ll try these next time with similar compositions.
 
First - with the lens you are using the kit 18-55, that is *not* actually a Macro lens.
you are simply close focusing, not really using a macro lens.
This thread has some good reading about real macro.
==> Trying macro

One your first picture one reason you could not have a detailed high IQ image is your shutter speed, especially if you were hand holding your camera. 1/30 is slow enough where most people are not able to steadily hold the camera for the camera, not one's perception of holding it steady.

You area mode also was "AF Area Mode: Auto-area" this is you are allowing the camera to focus on what ever it wants to focus on, which normally is *not* what you want to focus on. best to be in AF-S - Single Focus point mode for this type of work.
 
first picture
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 40 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/30 sec, f/7.1, ISO 1600
Flash: Off, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 42cm, with a depth of field of about 2.8cm, (from about 14mm before the focus point to about 15mm after)
AF Area Mode: Auto-area


second picture
Target image: http://www.thephotoforum.com/attachments/dsc_0499-jpg.138282/
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6
Shot at 50 mm
Exposure: Auto exposure, Not Defined, 1/250 sec, f/8, ISO 100
Flash: Auto, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 67cm, with a depth of field of about 5.3cm, (from about 2.6cm before the focus point to about 2.8cm after)
AF Area Mode: Single Area

Wow, pretty clear instructions! Unfortunately, I couldn't retake the shots, but I`ll try these next time with similar compositions.
I was listing out the photo EXIF data. The EXIF data allows us to understand how the camera settings were. *NOT* what you should be using. As my post above shows the EXIF shows a 1/30th Shutter Speed. Which if handheld is way too slow normally for people to accomplish.

Here's some background information about your camera's EXIF data that I quickly googled ==> https://www.quora.com/How-do-I-get-EXIF-data-displayed-on-Nikon-D5300
 
First - with the lens you are using the kit 18-55, that is *not* actually a Macro lens.
you are simply close focusing, not really using a macro lens.
This thread has some good reading about real macro.

One your first picture one reason you could not have a detailed high IQ image is your shutter speed, especially if you were hand holding your camera. 1/30 is slow enough where most people are not able to steadily hold the camera for the camera, not one's perception of holding it steady.

You area mode also was "AF Area Mode: Auto-area" this is you are allowing the camera to focus on what ever it wants to focus on, which normally is *not* what you want to focus on. best to be in AF-S - Single Focus point mode for this type of work.

Yes, I understand, but I like macro so much and unfortunately I can`t allow to buy another lens now.

Thanks for advice, I`ll experiment!
 
To get more background blur with a kit lens the subject needs to be further away from the background.

You can experiment with DOF on a fence as it's long and you can more visually see the Depth of Field. as these 3 pic will show you ==> Struggling with Focus
 
To get more background blur with a kit lens the subject needs to be further away from the background.

You can experiment with DOF on a fence as it's long and you can more visually see the Depth of Field. as these 3 pic will show you ==> Struggling with Focus
Oh, I see, it`s really helpful!
 
Rather than going out and taking shots that you cannot redo,
you may want to practice at home with miscellaneous objects. Then you can see for yourself how to focus more accurate with AF-S Single and faster shutter speeds. Work on more obtaining detail.

And you can move the object further from the background and you can compare Out of Focus backgrounds, at a shallower DOF ie, the smallest aperture number you can get.

The more you practice to understand how to use the camera, the more accurate you'll get the shot the way you want to get it when you won't have a chance to redo it.
 
Rather than going out and taking shots that you cannot redo,
you may want to practice at home with miscellaneous objects. Then you can see for yourself how to focus more accurate with AF-S Single and faster shutter speeds. Work on more obtaining detail.

And you can move the object further from the background and you can compare Out of Focus backgrounds, at a shallower DOF ie, the smallest aperture number you can get.

The more you practice to understand how to use the camera, the more accurate you'll get the shot the way you want to get it when you won't have a chance to redo it.

Ok, I begin with my flat right away! :)
 
Yes, I understand, but I like macro so much and unfortunately I can`t allow to buy another lens now.

Thanks for advice, I`ll experiment!

There is a cheap way to do real macro with your kit lens, but you 100% will need a tripod or other solid stabilization method (a bean bag if you're doing table top could work) and you will have trouble with moving targets (bugs, or flowers with any amount of air movement).

Buy a reverse mounting ring that matches your camera and filter thread size. They cost right around $15 on Amazon (US) and they will open a whole new window into the world of true macro for you.

Other things to be aware of when using this style lens attachment are you will have to set your aperture before you mount your lens in reverse, and you will focus by moving the whole camera back and forth.

You can also get a cheap vintage lens that is all manual and use it on your DSLR in this configuration. This would give you back aperture control while the lens is reverse mounted. And you can get a thread-to-thread ring that would allow you to maintain this lens in reverse to the front of your kit lens!

You can also try macro by extension tube set. These can also be relatively inexpensive, but do some research before you buy (some cheap ones are too cheap to work well). A good set should run around $40 on Amazon.

If you've got a good local library, check out some books on macro photography. These topics should be covered in detail. I liked this book: Closeup Shooting: A Guide to Closeup, Tabletop and Macro Photography by Cyrill Harnischmacher.


"Rule 408: Time is not the boss of you"
 
Yes, I understand, but I like macro so much and unfortunately I can`t allow to buy another lens now.

Thanks for advice, I`ll experiment!

There is a cheap way to do real macro with your kit lens, but you 100% will need a tripod or other solid stabilization method (a bean bag if you're doing table top could work) and you will have trouble with moving targets (bugs, or flowers with any amount of air movement).

Buy a reverse mounting ring that matches your camera and filter thread size. They cost right around $15 on Amazon (US) and they will open a whole new window into the world of true macro for you.

Other things to be aware of when using this style lens attachment are you will have to set your aperture before you mount your lens in reverse, and you will focus by moving the whole camera back and forth.

You can also get a cheap vintage lens that is all manual and use it on your DSLR in this configuration. This would give you back aperture control while the lens is reverse mounted. And you can get a thread-to-thread ring that would allow you to maintain this lens in reverse to the front of your kit lens!

You can also try macro by extension tube set. These can also be relatively inexpensive, but do some research before you buy (some cheap ones are too cheap to work well). A good set should run around $40 on Amazon.

If you've got a good local library, check out some books on macro photography. These topics should be covered in detail. I liked this book: Closeup Shooting: A Guide to Closeup, Tabletop and Macro Photography by Cyrill Harnischmacher.


"Rule 408: Time is not the boss of you"

Thank you very much for explanation and helpful suggestions! I'm considering buying reverse mounting ring, I hope, I`ll figure out how it works.

And thanks for a book, it will be my next reading!
 

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