For people in the Baltimore/Washington or Houston area...

[clarinetJWD]

DO y'all know of anywhere to get professional B&W, IR, and slide film developed that won't charge you 4 arms and 3 legs? I found a good place here (Severn Graphics) but they charge $16 per roll...I cannot afford that :S

Argh! So frustrating...

 

[terri]

Joe, the cost per roll at this lab is much more reasonable, but you'd still have to factor in postage. If you had a few rolls to send at a time, you may fare better in the long run. I've not used them, but they come pretty highly recommended. You might want to email them and check it further.

Hope this helps.

 

[clarinetJWD]

That looks great! I could just get wallets to begin with and see what I want enlarged later, right? (Sorry I kno so little about the film photographic process )

 

[EBphotography]

As long as you have the negatives, you still can do anything.

 

[clarinetJWD]

Sweetness. THanks so much guys, as soon as I get my next paycheck...
I have some film to get developed!

 

[terri]

Sweetness. THanks so much guys, as soon as I get my next paycheck...
I have some film to get developed!

Cool!! I'll be interested in hearing your experience with them, but they sure look top notch. :thumbup: You might save $$ just getting the film developed, but getting a contact sheet (a sheet of thumbnails of each neg) might be worth the extra cost, too, so you have an idea what you'd like to print up later.

onders how long it will take for Joe to realize how cheap & easy he can develop negs at home:

:twisted:

 

[clarinetJWD]

when I grow myself an extra room, I'll try it!

As it is, I'm losing a room this year

 

[terri]

when I grow myself an extra room, I'll try it!

As it is, I'm losing a room this year

Dude. A dark closet to hide in when you load the film onto a cheap plastic reel. And then a kitchen sink. It's just film developing, not enlarging (where you need a darkroom). I promise you, it's cheaper and takes less than half an hour.

If you find you really like shooting film and will be steadily going through some rolls, you'll save tons of money, very very quickly. Just keep it in mind. Once you do it, you slap yourself upside the head for having waited....and I'd hate to see you all bruised and stuff. :razz:

 

[clarinetJWD]

Dude. A dark closet to hide in when you load the film onto a cheap plastic reel. And then a kitchen sink. It's just film developing, not enlarging (where you need a darkroom). I promise you, it's cheaper and takes less than half an hour.

If you find you really like shooting film and will be steadily going through some rolls, you'll save tons of money, very very quickly. Just keep it in mind. Once you do it, you slap yourself upside the head for having waited....and I'd hate to see you all bruised and stuff. :razz:

Hmmm...that's it? onders:

Dammit...you're gonna make me do it aren't you?

 

[terri]

Hmmm...that's it? onders:

Dammit...you're gonna make me do it aren't you?

:mrgreen: yep!

 

[clarinetJWD]

:mrgreen: yep!

Well I guess the Summer would be the best time to learn...I've actually been looking things up recently...here's the list I came up with (entirely from Adorama) Let me know if there's anything I'm missing, or that I don't need...

A metal or plastic film tank
Adorama single roll
http://www.adorama.com/DKT135.html
Hewes Reel
http://www.adorama.com/DKR35HD.html

Three dark plastic containers to hold chemistry
http://www.adorama.com/DKBQ.html

Graduates (used to measure chemicals)
http://www.adorama.com/DKG16.html

A darkroom timer


A can opener
http://www.adorama.com/BLCO.html?searchinfo=film opener&item_no=1

Developer (see other sidebar)
http://www.adorama.com/KKD76G.html

Fixer (Kodak Rapid Fixer with Hardener is highly recommended)
http://www.adorama.com/KKKFXG.html

Hypo Eliminator
http://www.adorama.com/CHEHEP.html?searchinfo=hypo eliminator&item_no=2

Funnel
http://www.adorama.com/DKF16.html

Thermomiter
http://www.adorama.com/KKTBW.html

Sodium Sulfite
http://www.adorama.com/PYSST1.html?searchinfo=sodium sulfite&item_no=4


All this stuff adds up to $110, so if anyone has some lower cost suggestions (without significant loss of quality), I'm all ears!

 

[terri]

A quick check on our B&H link showed me the following:

Kodak D-76 (packet to make 1 gallon stock) - $5.79

Ilford Rapid Fix 500 ml (liquid for film or paper) - $6.25

Paterson Universal tank with reel - $22.96

Head to someplace like a discount mart for a couple of cheap plastic measuring cups, and the can opener - should all be less than $10-15. Check their pharmacy area for plain opaque jugs - or try cleaned, opaque milk jugs with screw caps. Not pretty, but servicable.

If you think you want a funnel, buy it at the discount store, too.

A thermometer is a nice thing to have, but not particularly crucial. Make sure the tap water feels tepid to your fingers and you're right there - not especially warm, and not icy. If you err, err on the cool side. The film will forgive you the coolness, it will not forgive you heat!

Okay, this is kind of basic, but really this is all you have to do:

Load film onto reel in total darkness. Sitting on the closet floor is comfortable - no light leaks!! (practice with the reel and used film in the daylight several times until you get the hang of it) Put the loaded reel into the tank, close it up tight. Proceed to kitchen sink. Have the developer pre-measured in one cup, the fix in the other.

You can pre-soak the film in plain tap water for about a minute, then dump.

From one of the measuring cups, pour in the D-76 straight into the tank – the timing depends on the film type/speed – there will be a chart, or someone here can tell you how long, and how often to agitate (by inversion). Stand at the sink and watch the clock.

Once the time is up, dump the developer and use plain running water as a stop bath for a couple of minutes.

From the other measuring cup, pour in the Ilford fixer, agitate as you did for the film, then dump (you could actually save it and re-use it, checking its freshness periodically if you buy a hypo-checking agent and an extra container for used fix - like a clean quart-sized opaque milk jug).

According to Ilford literature, there is little need for a hypo clearing agent for film, so you are spared this cost and step, provided you wash well. I can look up the recommended archival wash verbatim from Ilford if you want.

After the wash, carefully remove and hang the film strip with clothespins and suspend in as dust-free an environment as you can find – a closed closet is excellent.

Sit and have yourself your favorite beer – you can now afford more beer with the money you’ll save forever, having taught yourself how to develop film at home. :cheer:

 

[clarinetJWD]

I. did. it.


Film developing is a mere few days away!

 

[The_Traveler]

Altho my film yeas are far behind me, I do remember a couple of additional things.
Agitate consistently, that will effect density and contrast. The reasons you agitate is to move exhausted develoer from the immediate area of the film. and to be certain that all film is covered well. Immediately after adding developer to tanks, tap container a couple of times to move bubbles off of film.
Be careful of the final rinse water. I used to do final soak or rinse in distilled water so that I didn't end up with mineral streaks.
Run the film between wetted fingers before hanging to remove large blobs of water. (Sheeting agent is useful and cheap for final rinse)
Hang weight at bottom so film doesn't curl.

 

[terri]

I. did. it.


Film developing is a mere few days away!

Really?!?

You SO rock. :thumbup:

The Traveler is correct with the additions above. Although I personally greatly fear running my fingers along the film strip to remove excess water, I know most folks do it without incident. It just seems to me an open invite to a long, thin scratch from an unseen particle from your fingers.

I DID honestly forget to mention LFN as a rinse aid. :blushing: It's akin to PhotoFlo, only packaged in a plastic dispenser the size of eyedrops - and used about 2 drops at a time as THE final step before removing the film from the reel and hanging. Here it is.

One more thing to mention is a packet of archival negative sheets. Once the film is dry, you'll want to immediately cut them into smaller strips and slip them into these sheets (you'll end up with 4-5 rows of negs, depending on the type you buy). They are meant for long term storage, can come designed with holes to store in archival 3-ring binders (though you could probably wait a while on the binder).

Actually, I have tons of them for 35mm. If you'd like I could send you a dozen sheets or so, to hold you for a while. PM me if you want 'em!