Greetings and first question from the new guy

wkendwoodturner

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The greeting, hello everyone, my name is Tim. My photography efforts are specific to my woodwork and an occasional macro shot.

I just purchased a light box that has the LED strips built into it with all interior surfaces covered with a reflective material.

I'm using a Samsung Galaxy Camera 2 or EK-GC2oo

My problem is hot spots on the items I'm taking pictures of, my work is sprayed with high gloss lacquer so this reflective issue was some what expected ....

How do I prevent this problem?
 

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Sounds like your modifier is your issue. You need a softer light source.
 
The light box you're using isn't big enough. To reduce the contrast of a light source you increase its size. Size is distance relative so you can make a light (relatively) bigger by moving it closer. Reflections off shiny surfaces will still be a problem however -- they're just difficult. You can make adjustments to camera and/or light to subject angles which will move the reflection around but not remove it. You can strategically position (tape) white pieces of paper onto the light box surface. You can make the surface less shiny: Amazon.com Krylon 11-Ounce Dulling Spray Home Improvement And finally there's retouching in post processing.

Joe
 
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To cure reflections you have to be aware of the angle of the light source to the reflective surface.
The range of angles that cause the reflections is known as the 'family of angles'.
The details are covered in the inexpensive product photographers bible -
Light Science & Magic: An Introduction to Photographic Lighting

It takes pro product photographer several years to learn their craft, and they learn they need to use a pretty wide variety of lighting and lighting aids - light modifiers, reflectors, black flats, scrims, and more.
 
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Silly me .... thinking there was a simple, cheap and fast way to correct this problem ... (hanging head and sighing)

I'd like to make use of the "Light Box" I recently bought just for the smaller pieces I make as it sounds to me that the only functional change I can make will be during the retouching in post processing.

What would be the baseline camera settings while shooting it to a well lit up box ? Please see pic of the box.

Thanks,
Tim
 
Edit , pic added.
 

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Edit , pic added.

Sorry, but I'd lose the light box. I wasn't clear what you had from the first post, but the LEDs inside the box aren't going to cut it. They reflect in the subject's surface and not only do you have a shiny surface but you have a curved shiny surface. Seriously you need a solid-flat-large light source/sources close to the subject. Ideally I'd set up your piece 1/2 dozen feet from a backdrop and bring a large 6x4 foot softbox in from above and to one side. Then I'd further adjust reflections with cards clamped to stands.

I'm going to assume you don't have access to that kind of equipment and it's not in your budget. Then the budget way to do this is to head to your home cheapo xmart and get sheet Styrofoam insulation (white): http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...d-polystyrene-insulation/p-2740517-c-5779.htm You need one or two full sheets (4x8) because you'll need room to bounce a light into the sheet -- that becomes your light source. The goal is to light up the surface of the Styrofoam in order to get a very large light. With a curved shiny surface you can't remove reflections entirely -- think Xmas tree ornament -- a curved surface "sees" everything. So your goal is to manage the reflection's size, shape, intensity and position. You can again keep the cost down by using a couple 500 watt shop lights bounced into the Styrofoam.

You're tackling one of the really difficult photo problems.

Some supplemental reading for you: Assignment Thirty Five Photographing a Very Shiny Object Project 52 PRO Group 2014

Joe
 
Edit , pic added.

Sorry, but I'd lose the light box. I wasn't clear what you had from the first post, but the LEDs inside the box aren't going to cut it. They reflect in the subject's surface and not only do you have a shiny surface but you have a curved shiny surface. Seriously you need a solid-flat-large light source/sources close to the subject. Ideally I'd set up your piece 1/2 dozen feet from a backdrop and bring a large 6x4 foot softbox in from above and to one side. Then I'd further adjust reflections with cards clamped to stands.

I'm going to assume you don't have access to that kind of equipment and it's not in your budget. Then the budget way to do this is to head to your home cheapo xmart and get sheet Styrofoam insulation (white): http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...d-polystyrene-insulation/p-2740517-c-5779.htm You need one or two full sheets (4x8) because you'll need room to bounce a light into the sheet -- that becomes your light source. The goal is to light up the surface of the Styrofoam in order to get a very large light. With a curved shiny surface you can't remove reflections entirely -- think Xmas tree ornament -- a curved surface "sees" everything. So your goal is to manage the reflection's size, shape, intensity and position. You can again keep the cost down by using a couple 500 watt shop lights bounced into the Styrofoam.

You're tackling one of the really difficult photo problems.

Some supplemental reading for you: Assignment Thirty Five Photographing a Very Shiny Object Project 52 PRO Group 2014

Joe
Thanks Joe for the very specific info, as a almost non-photographer it will serve me well to read and re-read your response ... I'll go over it this evening (at work now)

Tim
 
Edit , pic added.

Sorry, but I'd lose the light box. I wasn't clear what you had from the first post, but the LEDs inside the box aren't going to cut it. They reflect in the subject's surface and not only do you have a shiny surface but you have a curved shiny surface. Seriously you need a solid-flat-large light source/sources close to the subject. Ideally I'd set up your piece 1/2 dozen feet from a backdrop and bring a large 6x4 foot softbox in from above and to one side. Then I'd further adjust reflections with cards clamped to stands.

I'm going to assume you don't have access to that kind of equipment and it's not in your budget. Then the budget way to do this is to head to your home cheapo xmart and get sheet Styrofoam insulation (white): http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...d-polystyrene-insulation/p-2740517-c-5779.htm You need one or two full sheets (4x8) because you'll need room to bounce a light into the sheet -- that becomes your light source. The goal is to light up the surface of the Styrofoam in order to get a very large light. With a curved shiny surface you can't remove reflections entirely -- think Xmas tree ornament -- a curved surface "sees" everything. So your goal is to manage the reflection's size, shape, intensity and position. You can again keep the cost down by using a couple 500 watt shop lights bounced into the Styrofoam.

You're tackling one of the really difficult photo problems.

Some supplemental reading for you: Assignment Thirty Five Photographing a Very Shiny Object Project 52 PRO Group 2014

Joe
Thanks Joe for the very specific info, as a almost non-photographer it will serve me well to read and re-read your response ... I'll go over it this evening (at work now)

Tim

P.S. Your woodworking looks stunning -- beautiful.

Joe
 
Thanks Joe, kind of you to compliment my work.
Tim
Edit , pic added.

Sorry, but I'd lose the light box. I wasn't clear what you had from the first post, but the LEDs inside the box aren't going to cut it. They reflect in the subject's surface and not only do you have a shiny surface but you have a curved shiny surface. Seriously you need a solid-flat-large light source/sources close to the subject. Ideally I'd set up your piece 1/2 dozen feet from a backdrop and bring a large 6x4 foot softbox in from above and to one side. Then I'd further adjust reflections with cards clamped to stands.

I'm going to assume you don't have access to that kind of equipment and it's not in your budget. Then the budget way to do this is to head to your home cheapo xmart and get sheet Styrofoam insulation (white): http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...d-polystyrene-insulation/p-2740517-c-5779.htm You need one or two full sheets (4x8) because you'll need room to bounce a light into the sheet -- that becomes your light source. The goal is to light up the surface of the Styrofoam in order to get a very large light. With a curved shiny surface you can't remove reflections entirely -- think Xmas tree ornament -- a curved surface "sees" everything. So your goal is to manage the reflection's size, shape, intensity and position. You can again keep the cost down by using a couple 500 watt shop lights bounced into the Styrofoam.

You're tackling one of the really difficult photo problems.

Some supplemental reading for you: Assignment Thirty Five Photographing a Very Shiny Object Project 52 PRO Group 2014

Joe
Thanks Joe for the very specific info, as a almost non-photographer it will serve me well to read and re-read your response ... I'll go over it this evening (at work now)

Tim

P.S. Your woodworking looks stunning -- beautiful.

Joe
Edit , pic added.

Sorry, but I'd lose the light box. I wasn't clear what you had from the first post, but the LEDs inside the box aren't going to cut it. They reflect in the subject's surface and not only do you have a shiny surface but you have a curved shiny surface. Seriously you need a solid-flat-large light source/sources close to the subject. Ideally I'd set up your piece 1/2 dozen feet from a backdrop and bring a large 6x4 foot softbox in from above and to one side. Then I'd further adjust reflections with cards clamped to stands.

I'm going to assume you don't have access to that kind of equipment and it's not in your budget. Then the budget way to do this is to head to your home cheapo xmart and get sheet Styrofoam insulation (white): http://www.menards.com/main/buildin...d-polystyrene-insulation/p-2740517-c-5779.htm You need one or two full sheets (4x8) because you'll need room to bounce a light into the sheet -- that becomes your light source. The goal is to light up the surface of the Styrofoam in order to get a very large light. With a curved shiny surface you can't remove reflections entirely -- think Xmas tree ornament -- a curved surface "sees" everything. So your goal is to manage the reflection's size, shape, intensity and position. You can again keep the cost down by using a couple 500 watt shop lights bounced into the Styrofoam.

You're tackling one of the really difficult photo problems.

Some supplemental reading for you: Assignment Thirty Five Photographing a Very Shiny Object Project 52 PRO Group 2014

Joe
Thanks Joe for the very specific info, as a almost non-photographer it will serve me well to read and re-read your response ... I'll go over it this evening (at work now)

Tim

P.S. Your woodworking looks stunning -- beautiful.

Joe
 
BTW, Mr. Turner; I made my own lightbox using some CPVC plumbing and some white rip-stop nylon from the fabric store.
 

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