HDR

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by gendarmee, Jan 31, 2008.

  1. gendarmee

    gendarmee TPF Noob!

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    Deleted.
     
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2011
  2. Parkerman

    Parkerman TPF Noob!

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    I just adjust the exposure and only the exposure.. Order doesnt matter when loading it into the HDR merge... it will figure it out.

    I would just go put it in P mode, get 3-5 shots at different exposures, merge it.. and work on it from there.
     
  3. ghpham

    ghpham TPF Noob!

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    you can look at this link for more information:

    http://www.hdrsoft.com/resources/dri.html

    You can also download the trial version software from the site and test out for yourself (it's has full use capability except you will have a watermark on your outputs). This software is much easier to use than PS.
     
  4. ghpham

    ghpham TPF Noob!

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    You will need to shoot in Av mode because you do not want to change DoF. Changing shutter speed to get over or under exposure is the way to go.

    "pp" stands for "post processing". It means adjusting white balance, color etc. tweaking your out of camera shot to get what you want.
     
  5. mylegacy412

    mylegacy412 TPF Noob!

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    those are not full stop differences, so there really isn't enough change in exposure to make a good HDR.
     
  6. fatsheep

    fatsheep TPF Noob!

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    The F number is the aperture. It sounds like you kept the aperture constant and varied the shutter speed.

    I'm not sure if this is "true HDR" but I found this tutorial for the GIMP: http://www.instructables.com/id/HDR-photos-with-the-GIMP/. I haven't tried it yet though so I can't guarantee anything...

    Well I think that's the entire point of HDR. If the scene has more contrast then your sensor can handle then you employ HDR to get a broader range. If your sensor can pick up detail in the brightest and darkest points of your image then their is no point in using HDR in the first place.

    From what I've read, you should try bracketing 1 stop underexposed and 1 stop overexposed (+/- 1 EV).
     
  7. bango707

    bango707 TPF Noob!

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    doesn't look like there is that great of a dynamic range in your picture that would constitute shooting an HDR of it.
    You use HDR when there are highlights, shadows, and everything in between. If you set you exposure at say an f2.8 for the shadows in the foreground then the sunny sky and trees in the background would be blown out so bracketing (using HDR) allows you to capture all of the detail in the varying light conditions of the image.
     
  8. bango707

    bango707 TPF Noob!

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    Someone on here did one on his old bike and the final result looked awesome!!! A few other people gave it a shot and theirs came out really well too. You're right, the chrome looked pretty neat when done correctly. If you do a HDR search you will probably pull it up. It was posted maybe a month and a half ago .
     
  9. ANDS!

    ANDS! No longer a newbie, moving up!

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    Does your camera support bracketing? I know nothing about Canons. If it does, use that - all you do is tell the camera how many stops over and under (and various other compinations) you want to do and it will do it - at least it is that easy on a D80 from Nikon. Dunno how feature rich that G9 is going to be.

    Oh and please do not use "P" mode to do this. All that does is adjust the shutter speed and aperture - it will achieve a fine exposure, but will NOT be useful for what you are trying to do here.
     
  10. kidchill

    kidchill TPF Noob!

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  11. Sw1tchFX

    Sw1tchFX TPF Noob!

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    You need contrast in your scenes, Both those images aren't contrasty enough.
     
  12. Sw1tchFX

    Sw1tchFX TPF Noob!

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    You need something where the scene cannot cover all the highlights and all the shadows in a single exposure.

    Fog is not good for this, try it at high noon on a sunny day, you'll know what i mean, clouds will be blown out, shadows will be black.
     

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