Help Shadows with White Backdrop?

[Flash Harry]

First, your boy is far too near the backdrop, second, your light at your left shoulder is acting as key, (too close or higher power) thus causing the shadow, third, you should have the backdrop evenly lit at least 1 stop brighter than the subject lighting, ie 1 stop=f22 METERED on backdrop, subject lit to f16 METERED, shoot at f16. H

 

[rprimeau95]

Only at the beginning.. then its not a process of elimination, but starting from point A, then B, then C to get the effect you want.

Some of the best strobists that I know work that way. They don't just plunk down 4 lights and shoot, they start with 1 light, measure the effects (chimping or light meter), and add until they have reached their goal. If they reach the goal with 1 strobe, so be it... if it takes 12 strobes and 6 reflectors, well they can do that too. At each step they know what direction they want to go and what the next step is.

Apparently that level of competancy comes fast if you practice a lot.

I kind of did this with my daughter I tried each light then added however we were in the room with the rubber brick backdrop that room is much darker.

I did then take her to the room where the white backdrop was and we didn't have the shadows however we used the soft box for her she was also the same distance from the back drop. If you see the pictures of that room where they have the wood on the floor should I pull that out farther? what would you say approx how many feet from the backdrop should one stand?

I found a lot of video on youtube today and was watching about lighting tips and set ups hoping tomorrow when i go I can come back better at it LOL.

I will apply all that I have learned this week. Maybe for now when i shoot my maternity shoot on Saturday I will stick with black backdrops.

another thing I don't have a light meter yet I know I need one not sure what to buy what is decent any suggestions I am guessing I should have one?

 

[Jim H]

Jerry and Harry kind of hit on it already ... just want to reiterate the importance of metering your lights to gain the desired lighting ratio you are trying for (and for the billionth time - get some distance between the subject and the back drop). EVERYONE has thier own way of doing it - which makes this a very subjective discussion.

Meter and practice .. then practice some more until you get the results YOU are looking for.

 

[Jim H]

Missed the light meter question ... sorry

This one will allow you to plug right into the back or you ABs and fire the flash with the meter and read the value at the same time.

 

[RebelTasha]

Can I ask how you edited that really dark noisy one and made it like you did?
I really love the edited version despite the shadow it's a really fun pose and the hair looks great!
I also really like the last two of your daughter!

 

[JerryPH]

Missed the light meter question ... sorry

This one will allow you to plug right into the back or you ABs and fire the flash with the meter and read the value at the same time.

Not a coincidence, thats a very well known and liked meter. I will be adding that one to my collection some time, but for now, I use an old 1980's analog Honeywell meter that works very well for my studio light playing. There's a second SB-800 thats on the list in front of the light meter.

 

[Jim H]

Not a coincidence, thats a very well known and liked meter. I will be adding that one to my collection some time, but for now, I use an old 1980's analog Honeywell meter that works very well for my studio light playing. There's a second SB-800 thats on the list in front of the light meter.

I love it. Plug into each strobe individually, or into the AB four in one controller. Set your shutter speed and pop/adjust each one until you get your desired f/stop. Sometimes takes a little chimping afterwards .. but gets danged close - real time saver!

 

[rprimeau95]

Can I ask how you edited that really dark noisy one and made it like you did?
I really love the edited version despite the shadow it's a really fun pose and the hair looks great!
I also really like the last two of your daughter!

Well several steps in my Paint Shop Pro XII

I can't say by memory I do it so fast I don't think about it when I edit, but the next one I do I will write down what I do and let you know if you like

 

[rprimeau95]

Missed the light meter question ... sorry

This one will allow you to plug right into the back or you ABs and fire the flash with the meter and read the value at the same time.

do you have to have this Sekonic RT-32 Radio Transmitter Module for L-358
or is this an optional item?

 

[Flash Harry]

no, not required, simply connect with a sync lead. H

 

[Jim H]

do you have to have this Sekonic RT-32 Radio Transmitter Module for L-358
or is this an optional item?

Just wanted to quickly reiterate what flash harry said and further elaborate that if you don't have the wireless trigger(s) for your strobes, the optional module is of little value until you do.

 

[theboffin]

ive not had time to read all the posts so sorry if any of this has already beed covered,

2 main things to watch
1, stand your subject AT LEAST there own height away from the backdrop.
2 as well as lighting the subject, light your backdrop evenly using seperate lights, setting these lights about 2 stops over exposed, to 'blow out' any shadows.

try experimenting with this idea try not to let the rear lights bleed onto your subject tho

hope that helps

 

[Village Idiot]

Start off with only one light too and move it, write down the settings, and match to the pictures afterrwards to see what exactly you did to get that result. Also, unless you're doing a very specific or stylized portrait, bare lights are not usually preferred. They' just too harsh and the shadows they create are just too much.