help - will a filter or WB setting fix this

Biologist43

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So I took this @ 2 seconds speed but the base of the "waterfall" is too glaring and white - would a filter have prevented this?
 
Sort of.

A circular polarizer could help to reduce the glare in a shot like this, thereby avoiding blown out highlights in that area. This only works if the glare is caused by the sun coming from the correct angle (usually off to the side) and therefore isn't always reliable and may not work in every situation.

Unfortunately as that's the brightest part of the image, it's going to be the first to blow out. To combat this, you can use a neutral density filter which essentially blocks out light and allows you to work with longer shutter speeds without blowing the highlights. Most professional landscape shooters will use an ND *and* a CPL in a shot like this, as you can stack filters. Make sure the CPL is on the top of the stack if you do this.

But ultimately, this is simple overexposure and blown highlights. You could fix it with a faster shutter speed, but would lose blurred effect you're going for in the water.

White balance will not fix this.
 
Agree with Destin, you could also close your aperture (increase the F-stop value, or decrease ISO), if you want to keep the 2 second ss.
 
Agree with Destin, you could also close your aperture (increase the F-stop value, or decrease ISO), if you want to keep the 2 second ss.

Agreed. I just just assuming he already has these at their limits, as you usually have to get two second exposure in daylight without an ND.
 
Camera: Nikon D3400
Lens: 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3
Shot at 70 mm
Exposure: Manual exposure, 2 sec, f/22, ISO 160
Flash: Off, Did not fire
Focus: AF-A, at 9.4m, with a depth of field of about 54m, (from about 4.3m before the focus point to about 50m after)
AF Area Mode: Auto-area


Already at F/22. I was curious because it was some good DOF.
Other than the above good advice, considering you already have the image.

If your software can do anything in relation to "highlight" you can lower the "brightness" of the white. When do waterfalls, etc the water really reflects the light and frothes up. So you get a lot of white in the heavily disturbed areas of water flow.
 
You will still get the similar effect at 1 second depending on the flow of the water, unless it is really slow. You could have shot at f/16 and ISO 100. A circular polariser would have been very useful, as you could have been perhaps at f/11 which would still have given good DOF an a 1second exposure at ISO 100.
 
just personally impressed that I'm using Manual mode and getting decent pics! thanks guys!
 

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