Help with flash - photo attached

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

How do I make the camera expose for the outside of the house, and then the flash lights the inside?

When I was taking this photo, I moved the little box over to the outside area, hoping it would expose for that, but then as you can see...it didn't.

Its too far gone to bring back those highlights in post...so this photo is shot...however I would like to know for next time.

Also this is shot at ISO 800, and I like to shoot my real estate photos at ISO 100, but when I put the camera in A mode and change it to ISO 100, the flash goes off, but the photo is still too dark...I am guessing that has to do with the shutter speed?

All I know is, this house has a water and golf course view, and I totally ruined showing that.

tirediron · Apr 2, 2015

Easy... it just requires more gear (well, not necessarily). There's two ways. The best way is to meter the outside ambient through the window and expose for that, while adding sufficient light inside to match it (within 1/2 stop). If you don't have that, then you can 'sort of' HDR it. One exposure for the exterior ambient, and then a second for the interior. The only issue with this method is you may get increased noise because you need higher ISOs for the interior shot, and it MUST be done from a tripod to properly match the two exposures together.

ryanestes · Apr 2, 2015

Nice lighting overall for the interior! You'll want to shoot in manual mode and expose for the outside. Then, apply enough flash to make the interior match the exposure you did for the outside.

The challenges you may face are these:

1) Sync speed. Most DSLR's require you to use a flash at 1/250sec. or slower. This means you'll need either a pretty small aperture, or a neutral density filter to darken up the outside. (Or shoot at sunrise or sunset when it's not as bright.)

2) Then, of course, you'll need to set your flash to higher power to compensate for the small aperture. Some flashes have trouble reaching this kind of power.

Also, it will help you with your shadows around the ceiling fan, lighting fixtures, etc. to bounce your flash off the walls/ceiling behind you. And of course with this method, you may also need flashes in the other room to light that room as well.

Another possibility would be to set your camera on a tripod, take one picture exposed for the outside, then another one exposed for the inside, and combine the two in Photoshop.

soufiej · Apr 2, 2015

Does your camera have "live view"?

There are several answers to your problem with this one shot. However, since I can waste a lot of bits with a digital camera and simply delete what I don't care for and get all those bits right back into the camera, I never rely on just one shot of anything.

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

^ Yes, but the client was standing right behind me and I didn't know WHAT settings to change on the camera, and I didn't want to stand there and tinker with things and take 27 photos of the same view.

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

I bounced this one off the ceiling to eliminate shadows...it got a little bit of the greenery outside, but still blown out. Although I don't know if the photo would be better to SHOW the houses across the street or not. So lets just go with...yeah I meant to do that...

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

ryanestes said:
Nice lighting overall for the interior! You'll want to shoot in manual mode and expose for the outside. Then, apply enough flash to make the interior match the exposure you did for the outside.

The challenges you may face are these:

1) Sync speed. Most DSLR's require you to use a flash at 1/250sec. or slower. This means you'll need either a pretty small aperture, or a neutral density filter to darken up the outside. (Or shoot at sunrise or sunset when it's not as bright.)

2) Then, of course, you'll need to set your flash to higher power to compensate for the small aperture. Some flashes have trouble reaching this kind of power.

Also, it will help you with your shadows around the ceiling fan, lighting fixtures, etc. to bounce your flash off the walls/ceiling behind you. And of course with this method, you may also need flashes in the other room to light that room as well.

Another possibility would be to set your camera on a tripod, take one picture exposed for the outside, then another one exposed for the inside, and combine the two in Photoshop.

I use a tripod for all my interior photos...so assuming camera movement is not a problem...how do I make sure I am shooting at the lowest ISO possible for the situation? Of course while exposing for the outside and letting the flash light the inside. I also like to shoot at 7.1 as I read my lens in sharpest at that aperture. Nikon 10-24 dx lens.

It would seem I almost know all my settings... f/ 7.1.....ISO 100....shutter speed 1/250? I don't know, I am lost.

Derrel · Apr 2, 2015

The outside exposure is determined by the shutter speed, f/stop, and ISO level. So, bright daylight outdoors, f/16 at a shutter speed that is equal to the ISO level in use, aka this is the Sunny 16 Rule. The indoor, flash exposure is determined by the f/stop used, the ISO, and the power of the flash; the shutter speed does not affect the flash exposure, but the duration of the shutter speed DOES affect how brightly or dimly continuously "on" light sources, like the sun, or table or overhead lighting fixtures inside the room are rendered. In this shot, the outdoor lighting is rendered a bit too brightly.

The ideal situation is to have enough flash power to get the indoor exposure and the outdoor exposure pretty close; since the Sunny 16 rule is how the bright-day outdoor exposure is set, that means you need a much more-powerful flash setup to elevate the indoor exposure close to the Sunny 16 exposure value. There are a few books written on just this subject, producing professional-grade interior photography, and I am sure you can find some good blog posts on "real estate photography interiors" or similar search strings. Your interior lighting was mostly pleasant, yet not really that great with the harsh shadow from the ceiling fan looking a bit "direct flash-y", yet still, not horrific or anything.

I think it's often okay to let the outdoor part of the exposure go "bright", but this photo pushes that into the realm of burnout, which is too far.

beachrat · Apr 2, 2015

My first question is,why try to shoot it in aperture priority instead of manual?

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

^Um...because I didn't know what setting to use. Why else would someone not shoot manual?

beachrat · Apr 2, 2015

Yes,I understand not knowing what settings you should use(without actually being there nobody really can),but why not simply meter what you're looking to properly expose with ambient,and then light the rest?

Parker219 · Apr 2, 2015

Easy right? I should have simply done that...

beachrat · Apr 2, 2015

Ooops.
Sorry about that bewilderment on my part.
I did not realize I was reading the beginners forum.
But,yeah.
Meter the outside window how you like it,within sync speed, and light the interior however you like it.

tirediron · Apr 2, 2015

Parker219 said:
Easy right? I should have simply done that...

Actually yes.

I'm puzzled as to how you rationalize this statement:

Parker219 said:
^ Yes, but the client was standing right behind me and I didn't know WHAT settings to change on the camera, and I didn't want to stand there and tinker with things and take 27 photos of the same view.

Implicit in that statement by virtue of your use of the word "client" is the fact that you were being paid to do a job. While I fully recognize that everyone starts somewhere, 'on the clock' is NOT the time, nor place to be learning. This should be practiced on your own time, and while you might not get it perfect the first time you're paid to, you should come a darn sight closer!