Hobby within a hobby

[SnappingShark]

Got myself a starter kit for a model railway. Have never been into this before.

However, I felt it would be awesome to do some photographical challenges with.

now, it's not all set up - I just wanted to ask some advice on shooting models, or miniatures.

What's the best lens do you think? (I am kind of ruing my decision to trade out my 60mm for a 105mm) - but anyway, I have the following:
14-24, 35, 50, 105 (macro), 70-200, 55-30 and 18-105mm

I have 1 speedlight (SB700).

Not much natural light as it's in my basement.

They're all coming out dark right now and I'm learning I can't use the same techniques as on regular sized trains! hah

 

[480sparky]

With a static subject, you can fire your SB700 as many times as you want when you have the shutter open.

Set camera up on tripod, and focus/compose. Keep shutter open long enough to fire the SB700 as many times as needed. Dial down the power so you can fire it several times and literally 'paint' the light onto the scene. I'd suggest getting a simple 5-in-1 reflector and shoot through the white mesh for a diffuse light.

 

[SCraig]

I usually use my 17-70 macro lens on my models but there's nothing wrong with a longer lens. I have two speedlights I bounce through umbrellas to get some decently diffused light and using a longer lens lets me get back a little further so my camera isn't in the way of the lights.

 

[D-B-J]

One of the most common photography articles I read in Model Railroader (I love model trains) is to use focus stacking. Since the models are small (obviously), you want to avoid making them look small. I suggest a quick bit of research on focus stacking and how to do it. I've seen some really realistic photos that have been stacked, and you'd swear they weren't a model.

Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing your images!!

Jake


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[SCraig]

One of the most common photography articles I read in Model Railroader (I love model trains) is to use focus stacking. Since the models are small (obviously), you want to avoid making them look small. I suggest a quick bit of research on focus stacking and how to do it. I've seen some really realistic photos that have been stacked, and you'd swear they weren't a model.

Focus stacking does work very well. I've done it for models and it does work. At macro distances depth of field is so limited that it is virtually impossible to get much of the model in focus unless it's just a flat surface. Focus stacking allows you to take a shot at one focus depth, then another at a different focus depth, and so on, and then "Stack" them into one image. The technique also allows one to use the aperture at which their lens is the sharpest without worrying about depth of field.

Here Is A Shot of a 1/32 scale A-10 cockpit I took that is a stack of 7 images. I started with the focus on the canopy rail on top and kept going down about 1/16" at a time until the seat belts were in focus and then stacked all of the images. There was no way I could get everything in focus with one shot, I tried. Here Is A Shot of the first photo of the stack. The depth of field doesn't go anywhere near as far as I wanted it to.

 

[JoeW]

Got myself a starter kit for a model railway. Have never been into this before.

However, I felt it would be awesome to do some photographical challenges with.

now, it's not all set up - I just wanted to ask some advice on shooting models, or miniatures.

What's the best lens do you think? (I am kind of ruing my decision to trade out my 60mm for a 105mm) - but anyway, I have the following:
14-24, 35, 50, 105 (macro), 70-200, 55-30 and 18-105mm

I have 1 speedlight (SB700).

Not much natural light as it's in my basement.

They're all coming out dark right now and I'm learning I can't use the same techniques as on regular sized trains! hah

Hmmm...not sure what kind of scale you're dealing with: HO? O? G? Z? Knowing the size helps a lot. Also, are you going to build dioramas (houses, mountains, people) or just set up the train and shoot?

Okay, hints....

1. David Rosenthal at David Levinthal does a superb job at shooting miniatures where he deliberately attempts to obscure or block parts of the shot (with the idea of making it appear as if it's an older picture). Look at his shot of the exploding grenade from "Hitler Moves East" to see what I mean. The basic idea is "less focus, less clarity). You may not be after this effect but I think the point is--you need to decide what you're trying to do with the photograph...document a nice model or deceive the eye so it's looks like the real thing.

2. Staging and setup is critical. I used to shoot miniatures and dioramas. Background matters a lot. Otherwise it looks like "hey, that's a nice model car sitting on your dining room table." So doing things like obscuring part of the foreground with what appears to be a brick wall and then having foliage in the background helps to create a more effective picture. Lori Nix does this professional and the work she does in terms of diorama prep and setup: Lori Nix or Matthew Albanese who does amazing dioramas A Behind-the-Scenes Glimpse of Matthew Albanese's Magical Miniature Worlds

3. Use DoF. Put the foreground in focus and make the background blurred.

4. You'll need your speed light. Since trains are mostly outside, this is a great way to play with filters (to mimic a sunset or sunrise with a golden hue to the shot). You'll also want to play with a scrim to make a softer light, less harsh, softer shadows.

5. Lens choice--to me the key is going to be aperture and not focal length. I could shoot effective dioramas or scale models with any of those lens IF the aperture was big enough for me to get a small DoF and let in a lot of ambient light. Macro is probably not a good fit unless you are doing amazing detail work on the train set (in weathering it). I also think a tripod is critical. All of the indoor diorama work I shot I used a tripod and all of the scale model shooters I know of you one. Think of this as product photography or still life photography--you'd use a tripod for those themes so why not for the trains? If your train is stationary, you can expose for a full second in your basement and offset the low light. Here's a useful IV with a guy who photographs model trains and his work has been in photography and model train magazines: I Photographer: Model Railroad Shooter Paul Dolkos | Popular Photography

For my money, the best one I've seen is Michael Smith. I love how he sets up/stages his work AND how he uses angles or distortion deliberately to create a realistic shot of a scale model: Photos of my models - a set on Flickr

 

[cmhbob]

Some very cool tips and suggestions in this thread. Thanks JoeW and SCraig!

 

[JoeW]

One of the most common photography articles I read in Model Railroader (I love model trains) is to use focus stacking. Since the models are small (obviously), you want to avoid making them look small. I suggest a quick bit of research on focus stacking and how to do it. I've seen some really realistic photos that have been stacked, and you'd swear they weren't a model.

Focus stacking does work very well. I've done it for models and it does work. At macro distances depth of field is so limited that it is virtually impossible to get much of the model in focus unless it's just a flat surface. Focus stacking allows you to take a shot at one focus depth, then another at a different focus depth, and so on, and then "Stack" them into one image. The technique also allows one to use the aperture at which their lens is the sharpest without worrying about depth of field.

Here Is A Shot of a 1/32 scale A-10 cockpit I took that is a stack of 7 images. I started with the focus on the canopy rail on top and kept going down about 1/16" at a time until the seat belts were in focus and then stacked all of the images. There was no way I could get everything in focus with one shot, I tried. Here Is A Shot of the first photo of the stack. The depth of field doesn't go anywhere near as far as I wanted it to.

Two things...

1. That is a PHENOMENAL job on the cockpit. Forget the photo (which is lovely). The detail and work on what is a 1/32nd scale cockpit (that makes the pilot about 3-4 inches tall) is outstanding.

2. I've used some HDR software (like Photomatix Pro) to achieve the same result as stacking.

 

[SCraig]

Two things...

1. That is a PHENOMENAL job on the cockpit. Forget the photo (which is lovely). The detail and work on what is a 1/32nd scale cockpit (that makes the pilot about 3-4 inches tall) is outstanding.

Thanks. That model was an absolute nightmare from the get-go but it eventually turned out decently. I got disgusted several times and quit on it for a while but eventually made it through to the end. Photos of the finished model are Here.

2. I've used some HDR software (like Photomatix Pro) to achieve the same result as stacking.

I can't understand how that would work. HDR increases the dynamic range of an image but has nothing at all to do with depth of field. I'm not saying you didn't, but I can't understand how.

 

[SnappingShark]

WOW - Thanks so much for the help and tips!! Can't wait to build out the scenery and get some shots going!!!

Got a few things on order such as grass, and buildings - and little people - but I'm excited!!!

I'm going to read all of the websites listed - I just wanted to say thanks!! )

 

[JustJazzie]

No advise here but I can't wait to see what you come up with!!

 

[Railphotog]

I've combined my photography hobby with model railroading too for quite some time. I put together a website just for beginners wanting to take model photos: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/

Here's a shot inside my scratchbuilt HO scale machine shop. Building is 10 inches square:

 

[D-B-J]

I've combined my photography hobby with model railroading too for quite some time. I put together a website just for beginners wanting to take model photos: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/

Here's a shot inside my scratchbuilt HO scale machine shop. Building is 10 inches square:

Wow, that's impressive.


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[RichieT]

I've combined my photography hobby with model railroading too for quite some time. I put together a website just for beginners wanting to take model photos: http://sites.google.com/site/railphotog/

Here's a shot inside my scratchbuilt HO scale machine shop. Building is 10 inches square:

I don't know which I'm more impressed with, the quality of the photo or the quality of the build. They're both excellent. Also, thanks for the website. I don't know when I'll get around to building another layout, but I would hope to take better pictures than what I took of my last layout ( O gauge with 35mm).

 

[RichieT]

WOW - Thanks so much for the help and tips!! Can't wait to build out the scenery and get some shots going!!!

Got a few things on order such as grass, and buildings - and little people - but I'm excited!!!

I'm going to read all of the websites listed - I just wanted to say thanks!! )

Looking foward to seeing what you come up with. If you're ordering modelling grass, get as many different shades and textures as you can. I found that more variety greatly improved my layout.