Home developing first results

Yes I thought I was shooting HP5 I usually have some masking tape on the bottom of my camera a write what film is in the camera

The camera back doesn't have a 'slot' for the end of the film box?
 
I think I only have one camera new enough to have that window for the film info. A few of them have a reminder dial that lets you choose Color or Panchro or Empty. Mostly I just have to remember what I have in the camera. And no, I don't have a single Leica ;)
 
I start the loading on the real before it goes in the changing bag with 35mm because you have plenty at the start of the film that has already been exposed while loading

I could do this with my next film as it's in a K1000 but I read on another forum that pulling the film back through the felt can lead to scratching and dust. Have you experienced these problems or was the poster just scaremongering?
It is a possibility, but rather remote, with one use cassettes. If you use reloads, you gotta clean/vacuum the felt every once and a while.

I used to grab the feeder end, (not the film but the metal at the opening), of the commercial cassette and just rip open the cassette. Sorta pry one end one way and pry the other end the opposite. It's fast and no need to hunt for a can opener.
 
Last edited:
Does your motor have a setting where it will not rewind into the canister but leave the leader out as many newer (read: post 1990) cameras can? Also, if your motor is on an older manual-ish camera you could always remove it and rewind manually. Stop when the film comes off the winding gear. You can tell.
The film camera I'm using now is a 6x8 ... so no. My old Nikon F's (F, F2, didn't ... the F3 ... I don't remember, lol).
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
With B&W film ... you can sorta expose to your development methodologies. So I'm reluctant to give specific advice because it is for how I shoot, how I develop and how I print. I remember shooting assignments where the paper would have messengers pick-up and deliver our exposed film for development and printing by photogs at the office. Everybody was giving all these different development instructions for the same ASA film. (All we shot was Tri-X and most everybody only developed ASA 400 Tri-X in D-76. I used HC110 for pushed film, others used different developers of their choice.)
 
Last edited:
Stand developing is using very dilute developer for a long time with little on no agitation. I use Legacy Pro L110, diluted 100:1 for one hour. Very little agitation at the start, then leave it for the rest of the hour.
This article prompted my interest: Black and white film development for lazy people - Japan Camera Hunter
I plan to experiment more before too long. My last experiment shooting Tri-X at ISO 400, 1600 and 3200 worked out pretty well.
Tri-X + Stand Develop Test - an album on Flickr.

Phil
 
They look great! the first few rolls I developed (20 years ago) came out blank! I shot them with the lens cap on on my rangefinder:( I never use acid stop on film just a plain running water rinse. This is recommended in Anchell's cook book. I use a neutral fix (tf-3) but I do not think it matters much. I always do a couple minute presoak with a drop of edwall wetting agent in distilled. Any way congrats on some nice looking negatives. Love the pictures too!
 
On my next batch of film with will try the Ilford 5-10-20. As for agitation, I invert a couple of times at the start of development and then maybe once or twice over the full development. I sorta expose for this agitation methodology. It works for me. But this is on the extreme end of agitation which why I suggested to reduce your agitation over time.

The next film is T-Max 100 and I'll be using Adonal 1+25, 6 minutes, 20°C. Should I reduce the agitation? Is there any specific advice you could give for T-Max?
With B&W film ... you can sorta expose to your development methodologies. So I'm reluctant to give specific advice because it is for how I shoot, how I develop and how I print. I remember shooting assignments where the paper would have messengers pick-up and deliver our exposed film for development and printing by photogs at the office. Everybody was giving all these different development instructions for the same ASA film. (All we shot was Tri-X and most everybody only developed ASA 400 Tri-X in D-76. I used HC110 for pushed film, others used different developers of their choice.)

OK, no probs. I'll try it in Adonal and if it doesn't come out well, I'll order some T-Max developer.

Stand developing is using very dilute developer for a long time with little on no agitation. I use Legacy Pro L110, diluted 100:1 for one hour. Very little agitation at the start, then leave it for the rest of the hour.
This article prompted my interest: Black and white film development for lazy people - Japan Camera Hunter
I plan to experiment more before too long. My last experiment shooting Tri-X at ISO 400, 1600 and 3200 worked out pretty well.
Tri-X + Stand Develop Test - an album on Flickr.

Phil

Thanks for the info and links. Much appreciated.

They look great! the first few rolls I developed (20 years ago) came out blank! I shot them with the lens cap on on my rangefinder:( I never use acid stop on film just a plain running water rinse. This is recommended in Anchell's cook book. I use a neutral fix (tf-3) but I do not think it matters much. I always do a couple minute presoak with a drop of edwall wetting agent in distilled. Any way congrats on some nice looking negatives. Love the pictures too!

I have a Voigtländer viewfinder and have been known to get perfectly blank negatives using this method too! Thanks for the info and feedback.
 

Most reactions

Back
Top