How do you bring down noise without losing much of sharpness even at ISO of 1600?

Discussion in 'Beyond the Basics' started by k.udhay, Sep 19, 2017.

  1. k.udhay

    k.udhay TPF Noob!

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    I watched this video of Pye on YouTube:



    While I was impressed with his idea of using CTO gels to produce golden hour images, I was taken aback when he said he used ISO of 1600 on his Canon 5D mark iii.

    I have come across this message that 5D mark iii behaves extremely well in low light conditions. But doesn't ISO 1600 sound too high? And I don't find any problem in the pictures that he showed in his video.

    I assume he used post processing to drop noise.

    1) How do you control noise in post production - Do you use any plug-in or just camera raw?

    2) How do you maintain sharpness while reducing noise?

    3) Can you post some pics. that you shot at high ISO with acceptable noise level and sharpness pl.?


     
  2. zombiesniper

    zombiesniper The camera takes the Pic. I just point the way. Supporting Member

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    Acceptable noise is kind of subjective.

    For me 1600 ISO on a 5D mk 3 is plenty good. No real need to mess with it.

    I shoot a 7D mk 2 and it handles 1600 without the need for clean up. If I do find that I have to clean some noise I use define from the NIK collection for lightroom.

    Here is ISO 3200 with no cleaning of noise.

    [​IMG]Squirrel by Trevor Baldwin, on Flickr
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2017
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  3. k.udhay

    k.udhay TPF Noob!

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    Awesome!
    Could you tell these too pl.?
    1. What was the distance between camera and the subject?
    2. Aperture? [Edit - Got to know as f/4.0 from Flickr]
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2017
  4. Derrel

    Derrel Mr. Rain Cloud

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    ISO 1,600 is VERY usable on better full-frame cameras. At least as far as in people photography, where expression and emotion are paramount. No, it is not as "clean: as ISO 100 or 125 or 160, but it is not "terrible". If the exposures are generous, not wayyyy under-exposed, then ISO 1,600 is going to create decent images, especially if there is ample light present.

    Many,many times, people resort to ISO 1,600 and then under-expose, at say an effective Exposure Index level of say 3,200 or 6,400 or worse, and it looks likerubbish! But if you have the ISO set high, AND you expose adequately and there is actually LIGHT present, 1,600 on a 5D Mark III is very useable.

    I dunno...cleaning up noise and removing detail is also sort of subjective; what one person calls good, or acceptable, or bad--that all depends on the individual! to ME, agai, to ME, sharpness is accentuated with the noise left IN the image!!! I would rather see more high-frequency detail along with noise,m than no noise, and a loss of high-frequency detail! I am not a big fan of killing noise to the point that more than 15 to 20 percent of detail is lost; to me, again, I prefer to see the noise and to see more detail, to less noise and less fine detail!
     
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  5. jaomul

    jaomul Been spending a lot of time on here!

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    As pretty much said above iso 1600 should not be a problem for a proper exposed photo on a 5d3. I'd say under certain circumstances iso 6400 would even be ok, though it is of course always better to try and use lowest iso possible for the correct exposure.

    Removing noise is subjective also, as said above, but remember that really you should probably only try rescue a photo if it is in Raw format. If your camera is in jpeg it likely has already applied noise reduction
     
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  6. Overread

    Overread has a hat around here somewhere Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Don't forget that the process of printing or editing for suitable display online will remove/hide much of the noise even before you undertake any noise reduction in editing. So you won't see as much as when you're viewing it at 100% in the tools for adjusting noise and sharpness.

    Noise removal and sharpness retention are two halves of the same circle in editing and there is a legion of different programs for each and differing methods that you can use to maximise your gains and minimise your losses. At a basic level you can use layer masks so that you can define where the strongest noise reduction and strongest sharpening occur; since you typically won't want to bother with sharpening your blurry background areas; and similarly won't want as strong a noise reduction on your crisp sharpest areas.

    From there there are some layer masking tools you can use that can let you pick out the sharp/soft areas and generate layermasks that will go into fine detail (as opposed to manually brushing where you want each). Google and searching can result in a few good articles (I'd link them but I've missplaced the one or two I knew of/used).
     
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  7. k.udhay

    k.udhay TPF Noob!

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    I think this exactly is the point I was missing in a 5D mark III borrowed.

    "But if you have the ISO set high, AND you expose adequately and there is actually LIGHT present, 1,600 on a 5D Mark III is very useable."

    My exposure was less and I had cranked ISO high. When I looked the image on my computer, I was so disappointed by the noise. Now I know the key, I will practice this!

    Thanks a ton, Derrel!
     
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  8. Overread

    Overread has a hat around here somewhere Staff Member Supporting Member

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    If you could show us a crop from the photo of the noise at fullsize that might also help. Noise and sharpness are one of those areas where you can hold a conversation with someone about it and yet be talking about totally different amounts of each without realising. With a real example we can better understand your position and what you're seeing.

    What you see as too much might be well within normal boundaries; it could be easily fixable with the right method or could be insane levels of noise .
     
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  9. k.udhay

    k.udhay TPF Noob!

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    Thanks, Overread. I will post a pic. in some time here. I am away from my home now.
     
  10. zombiesniper

    zombiesniper The camera takes the Pic. I just point the way. Supporting Member

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    Distance was probably 50'
    F4
     
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  11. SquarePeg

    SquarePeg Hear me roar Staff Member Supporting Member

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    I don't mind noise in my photos as long as it's not so much that it becomes a distraction. If you do want to use software to decrease noise, I like the Topaz Labs filter Topaz DeNoise. Really effective.
     
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  12. KmH

    KmH Helping photographers learn to fish Supporting Member

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    How effectively noise can be reduced post process depends on the dominant type of noise in an image.

    Because of the way digital cameras work darker regions will contain more noise than the brighter regions, so noise varies within an individual image.
    Consequently we don't need to reduce noise equally to an entire image - a global edit - because reducing noise locally in the image gives us a better result.

    The noise reduction panel in ACR lets us reduce the Luminance of noise and/or the Color of noise while also allowing us to adjust the detail of each adjustment. Further we can adjust the contrast of the Luminance adjustment & the smoothness of the Color adjustment.

    While ACR usually suffucues for me I sometimes us Imagenomic's Noiseware Professional to edit image noise
     
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