How do you do continuous auto focus tracking using a VR lens

Auslese

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Here it is, the deer is on top of the hill, a ten point buck, you have your 400 mm 80-400 locked in vr mode, and the buck takes off, toward me at first, then sees me and breaks right to cut off the park ranger who just came over the hill. The camera a D7100 is set in sport mode, with the VR lock on, but once the buck ran I lost every shot, as they were blurry because the buck moved. Do I need to release and re-half press the lock ever time an animal moves? Seriously I never lost every shot with my 80-200, it stops my dog in mid air at 30mph DSC_1791b
 
turn the camera to AF-C.
turn the lens to VR on.
find target in focus point, engage AF.

you shot the running dog at 1/1250sec. You wouldn't want VR enabled at that high of a shutter speed even if you were using a VR lens.

RTFM. learn how to use your tools. There's times for VR and times for no-VR.
 
from your old lens's user manual (assuming the older version):


Setting the vibration reduction mode switch

Mode 1
Vibration is reduced at the instant the shutter is released and also while the shutter release button is lightly pressed. Because vibration is reduced in the viewfinder, auto/manual focusing and exact framing of the subject are easier.

Mode 2
Vibration is reduced only at the instant the shutter is released. In this mode, vibration of the image in the viewfinder is not reduced while the shutter release button is pressed lightly. Vibration is not reduced.
  • In Mode 1 and Mode 2, wait at least one second before fully depressing the shutter release button after lightly pressing the shutter button. In Mode 1, it’s recommended to release the shutter after the image in the viewfinder has stopped vibrating.

  • The vibration reduction mechanism reduces camera shake. However, if you move the camera quickly, vibration in the direction of that movement may not be affected. For example, if you pan the camera horizontally, only vibration in the vertical direction is reduced, making smooth pans much easier.

  • Characteristic of the vibration reduction mechanism, the image in the viewfinder may blur after releasing the shutter. 17 E

  • Do not turn the camera power OFF while the vibration reduction mode is in operation. Otherwise the lens may emit a chattering noise when it is moved quickly. This is not a malfunction. Turn the camera power ON again to correct this.

  • If the lens is removed from the camera while the vibration reduction mode is in operation, the same thing may happen as stated above. Mount the lens and press the shutter release button halfway to eliminate the chattering noise.

  • When the shutter release button is lightly pressed, the vibration reduction mode does not work with F80-Series/N80-Series or F65-Series/N65-Series cameras while the camera's built-in Speedlight is recycling.

  • When the lens is mounted on a tripod, set the vibration reduction mode switch to OFF. Set the vibration reduction mode switch to ON, when using a monopod or if the lens is mounted on a tripod without the head being locked in place.

  • This mode may be less effective when pictures are taken from a moving vehicle.

  • The vibration reduction mode does not work when the AF start (AF-ON) button is turned on with cameras so equipped.
 
..."Sheesh.
Help me understand: You post a question, someone takes the time to provide you with an excellent answer which fits exactly within the parameters of your question, and rather than a simple 'Thank-you', you feel that this is an appropriate response?
Describing G lenses, which are most modern series of lenses that Nikon makes as old, is not technically correct. A history of Nikon lenses Nikkor Lens Technology

turn the camera to AF-C.
turn the lens to VR on.
find target in focus point, engage AF.

you shot the running dog at 1/1250sec. You wouldn't want VR enabled at that high of a shutter speed even if you were using a VR lens.

RTFM. learn how to use your tools. There's times for VR and times for no-VR.
Because VR can not handle the speed, so why pay more money for a lens that can not take high speed photos????????? There is no photo of the buck, because it ran, and vr can only crawl. As for times when vr is needed, you never know when that will be, so you are better off without it.

VR isn't for high shutter speeds. It's designed to reduce vibration at slow shutter speeds.
 
Oh boy, here we go again.
 
Wasting your keystrokes - the troll thinks he knows all.
 
I always run into deer in the evening so the light is always low.
I would use the center focus point while set to Dynamic area AF and in AF-C.
Then I make sure the shutter speed is up at least 1/500 and may turn off VR (if I remember), f/5.6, ISO up as high as I feel comfortable.

, with the VR lock on,

Not sure what "VR lock on" is. The VR will activate for as long as the shutter button is held halfway down. As noted above, VR will not stop the motion of a moving subject.

Also, if this is the 80-400mm VR, but pre AF-S model then the focus is known to be slow. I tried that one out in the store side by side with the 70-300mm VR and went with the cheaper 70-300.
 
First thing is to take it off of "Sports Mode" and put it on Shutter priority, so that you can select the appropriate speed to freeze the buck.
 
Here it is, the deer is on top of the hill, a ten point buck, you have your 400 mm 80-400 locked in vr mode, and the buck takes off, toward me at first, then sees me and breaks right to cut off the park ranger who just came over the hill. The camera a D7100 is set in sport mode, with the VR lock on, but once the buck ran I lost every shot, as they were blurry because the buck moved. Do I need to release and re-half press the lock ever time an animal moves? Seriously I never lost every shot with my 80-200, it stops my dog in mid air at 30mph DSC_1791b
Since you are a hunter

Push that little button on the left front near the lens that has a switch around it. (AF Mode buttom)
rotate the command dials and put it on AFC-Single. Check your manual about it.

Then use the Single focus point in the middle of the viewfinder to place it on target.

If you are using AFC-d9, d11 or anything else it is not to your favor. It's like using a shotgun on a target 200 yards away.
 
RTFM. learn how to use your tools.
I tried RTFM... I still don't understand auto focus. In my opinion RTFM is 90% waste of time. It is written by manufacturer nerds in little cubicles who have their own nerd speak. If I want to learn anything I would rather ask NCN's [non cubicle nerds], aka real photographers with experience who are willing to share in plain language people can understand.
 
Try this then.
Understanding Camera Autofocus

Since we are living in a technological society, it's a good idea to learn the language.
But, you're not alone. Lots of people are illiterate when it comes to understanding how to effectively use technology.

The manual does use plain language most people can understand. The manual only explains what the camera's various feature/function options are.

It's a user's manual, not a photography how-to book.
 
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I didn't say the manual was a photography how to book. I don't expect it to be. The manual does use plain language... and I am not illiterate! I prefer to ask someone else when something in plain language doesn't make sense to me. Nonetheless, thank you for offering an alternative.
 
I didn't say the manual was a photography how to book. I don't expect it to be. The manual does use plain language... and I am not illiterate! I prefer to ask someone else when something in plain language doesn't make sense to me. Nonetheless, thank you for offering an alternative.

Seems like a good way to use a discussion forum. You know, to have a discussion.
 

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