How to do Infared Photography

Rollei12

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I'm interested in trying out some infared photography, but I get lost on how much the filter affects things. Normally, my camera's light meter can see through normal filters, but what about a filter you can't even see through? How do I know how many seconds past "Bulb" I need for a proper exposure?

I suppose that's where a light meter is necessary? Any math I could use as I don't have a light meter yet? *ducks so doesn't get hit by tomatoes".

A simple setup that a beginner could understand would be nice. Once the filter goes how how do I set my camera?

Films I'm looking at: Ilford's SFX (I have 1 roll) and Rollei's Infared 400.
 
It's difficult with film! However if your using IR film shutter speeds should be vaguely similar to visible speeds - not multiple secconds for most daylight shots.
IIRC the films have some tips (IR response varies between different film types) but the degree of IR coming from your light source is not directly related to the visible intensity. In direct sunlight there will be a fairly constant relationship (altitude/ haze etc will cause some variation) as the cloud cover etc increases the ratio will change. Nearby foliage will also reflect a lot of IR...

I think a considerable amount of bracketing is usually needed, though personal experience will reduce just how much.
I don't know of any light meters that are actually calibrated for IR, or even if they all respond to it.

My own experience with IR has all been with digital cameras equipped with TTL metering. Some of these DSLRs need a 5 stop EV correction over the 'metered reading' to get a good exposure. Fortunately my main IR camera (a converted mirrorless) uses the main sensor for metering so it doesn't have any response variation. This helps a huge amount when playing with non standard filters :)
 
I've played around with ir but not much and it's been some time ago. I was thinking you have to adjust at least a stop or two to compensate for the loss of light depending on what filter (red compared to yellow etc.).

So yeah, I think you need to meter... but you might see if you can find a vintage one that's still working, or sometimes I've taken along another camera to meter a scene (because I was using a camera without a working meter). I've used a rangefinder instead of an SLR so that takes care of being able to see, or maybe a TLR? (or a 'faux' TLR, there are vintage cameras that look like twin lens but really just have one for viewing).

You could try asking on the FPP Flickr page discussion group, ask Leslie, she seems to know just about everything film related (but I can't think of her user name on there... well, if you ask and she knows she'll probably post.)
 
You won't get much of an IR effect with Ilford SFX regardless of filters. It's more correctly called a near-IR film.
 
I miss Kodak color IR transparency film.

1982 Harpers Ferry West Virginia-shot at box speed.


image018.jpg
 
You won't get much of an IR effect with Ilford SFX regardless of filters. It's more correctly called a near-IR film.
All 'infra red' photography is carried out in the part of the spectrum called near infra red, referring to the infra red portion that is nearest to visible light. Near IR covers something like 700-2500nm while IR cameras generally only reach 1100nm. The images SFX produces are typical of infra red photography, showing the woods effect, etc.
Mid (& far) Infrared photography is referred to as 'thermal' and is very different, and goes to much longer wavelengths.
 
The images SFX produces are typical of infra red photography ...

That is not consistent with my experience with SFX film.

Ilford does not even use the word infrared in its SFX literature, instead stating that it is a film "with extended red sensitivity."

It may be true that the extended red sensitivity can be exploited pictorially to give an effect approaching that of IR films but I wouldn't put SFX in the same class as Rollei or other films commonly referred to as "infrared films."
 
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