How to shoot the Sinking Sun

norris_watkins

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I tried without muc result to take a picture of teh Sinking Evening Sun.
No matter what I did, the resulting picture was not as vivid as the ones I ve seen. It looked very plain even compared to looking at the scene with my eyes. ( The richness of color was simply missing )
Am I supposed to use filters ?
When I tried to use, long exposures, I evnded up getting washed out pictures.
Any ideas ?
--nw
 
You can't really compare what the human eye sees to what a camera is capable of doing. Our eyes are constantly moving and adjusting, so our brain can take in a whole scene with drastically different tones. A camera only captures the photo at a specific exposure. If you set the exposure for the bright sun/sky...then the rest of the image will probably be very dark. If you set the exposure for the darker areas, then the bright areas will get blown out.

It's a balancing act that photographers fight with all the time. But if you have an idea of what you want and what your limits are, it should be easier to get there.

There are things you can do to help. A split or gradient filter can help to even out the exposure, or you can take multiple exposures at different levels and combine them with software.
 
I thought the camera manufacturers advised us not to aim the camera at the sun as it would damage the sensor?
 
It would probably damage your eyes before damaging the sensor.
 
You can't really compare what the human eye sees to what a camera is capable of doing. Our eyes are constantly moving and adjusting, so our brain can take in a whole scene with drastically different tones. A camera only captures the photo at a specific exposure. If you set the exposure for the bright sun/sky...then the rest of the image will probably be very dark. If you set the exposure for the darker areas, then the bright areas will get blown out.

It's a balancing act that photographers fight with all the time. But if you have an idea of what you want and what your limits are, it should be easier to get there.

There are things you can do to help. A split or gradient filter can help to even out the exposure, or you can take multiple exposures at different levels and combine them with software.

Agree, can't really add much... as I've only taken a handful of these types of pictures, I usually do like a 5 stop bracket, pick the best or like it was already mentioned combine with software.
 
Good point...I forgot to mention bracketing.

For shooting something like sunset/sunrise....different exposure levels can give you dramatically different results. So take a handful of shots with different exposures and then you can choose the best ones later.

This just reminded me that I took a whole bunch of sunset photos while camping, earlier this month. I haven't even off loaded the card yet.
 
You can also use filters. A graduated Neutral Densitiy is great for it or, try a Circular Polarizer. The graduated filter is the best choice though.
 
i remember reading when photographing sunsets it helps to underexpose the image slightly, this will make the oranges more vivid and less washed out
 
This is the first sunset of 2008, taken from our carport. Unfortunately I lost the original & only have the small version. :-x


010108.jpg
 
Ron Evers :
That is a great picture. If you still have the exif data, could you post the lens/time/exposure/iso as well as whether you used a filter or not

--nw
 
Ron Evers :
That is a great picture. If you still have the exif data, could you post the lens/time/exposure/iso as well as whether you used a filter or not

--nw

in case Ron doesn't return to the thread his exif


Camera Make: NIKON
Camera Model: E2100
Image Date: 2008:01:01 22:48:25
Flash Used: Yes (Auto)
Focal Length: 4.7mm (35mm equivalent: 36mm)
Exposure Time: 0.033 s (1/30)
Aperture: f/2.6
ISO equiv: 126
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: program (Auto)

It is a nice shot..


OP - I'll second the use to 2 or 4 stop ND grads for setting suns... that is if you interested in exposing the foreground...
 
Thanks for that dEARlEADER. I was trying to copy that from my picture but I could only highlight one line @ a time to copy.

The camera is a pocket type point & shoot. My wife called me to the door & asked me to take a picture.
 
Man I am humbled. I was expecting to hear about a 2000$ camera with 5000$ gear attached to it.
I had no clue, little P&S cameras could produce such stunning picture.
Ron : Is it true that you pretty much allowed the camera to choose all the paremeters ?
If I have to attempt the same shot in my Digital SLR camera, is it adviced to also have the flash on ?

By the way. Did you photoshop the original picture Ron ?

--nw
 
Man I am humbled. I was expecting to hear about a 2000$ camera with 5000$ gear attached to it.
I had no clue, little P&S cameras could produce such stunning picture.
Ron : Is it true that you pretty much allowed the camera to choose all the paremeters ?
If I have to attempt the same shot in my Digital SLR camera, is it adviced to also have the flash on ?

By the way. Did you photoshop the original picture Ron ?

--nw

I think it was Ansel Adams that said something to the effect of

The most important gear a photographer can use is the twelve inches behind the view finder.

or something like that...

and for all you perv's keep your 12 inch jokes to yourselves....
 
Man I am humbled. I was expecting to hear about a 2000$ camera with 5000$ gear attached to it.
I had no clue, little P&S cameras could produce such stunning picture.

Ron : Is it true that you pretty much allowed the camera to choose all the paremeters ? Yes, the exposure was totally controlled by the camera.

If I have to attempt the same shot in my Digital SLR camera, is it adviced to also have the flash on ? I would suggest trying it both ways & see what you like best.

By the way. Did you photoshop the original picture Ron ? All I did was re-size it for web posting & lost the original.

--nw

Some point & shoot cameras can take pretty decent pictures.
 

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