How to start with developing 35mm B&W film at home?

Joe Scotto

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I'm 16 years old and recently got into film photography. I understand the basics of how develop film but don't know what supplies and chemicals I need. I know that a developer and fixer is necessary but have read that a stop bath is not always needed. I've also heard that you can reuse chemicals multiple times. Also if anyone could post a link to proper supplies, that would be greatly appreciated.
 
You'll need:

Film changing bag (for getting canister open and film on to reel) if you don't have a room that can be made light-proof.
Film developing reel(s)
Developing tank
Thermometer
Measuring cup
Containers for all three chemicals:
Developer
Stop Bath
Fixer
Scissors (nothing special needed... just to cut the film off the spool)

Optional is a timer. Or, as they say, "There's an app for that!"

The whole kit shouldn't be much more than $100.

Some chemicals can be used multiple times, and others should only be used once.
 
You'll need:

Film changing bag (for getting canister open and film on to reel) if you don't have a room that can be made light-proof.
Film developing reel(s)
Developing tank
Thermometer
Measuring cup
Containers for all three chemicals:
Developer
Stop Bath
Fixer
Scissors (nothing special needed... just to cut the film off the spool)

Optional is a timer. Or, as they say, "There's an app for that!"

The whole kit shouldn't be much more than $100.

Some chemicals can be used multiple times, and others should only be used once.
Is a stop bath really necessary? I've heard that you can just use water.
 
You'll need:

Film changing bag (for getting canister open and film on to reel) if you don't have a room that can be made light-proof.
Film developing reel(s)
Developing tank
Thermometer
Measuring cup
Containers for all three chemicals:
Developer
Stop Bath
Fixer
Scissors (nothing special needed... just to cut the film off the spool)

Optional is a timer. Or, as they say, "There's an app for that!"

The whole kit shouldn't be much more than $100.

Some chemicals can be used multiple times, and others should only be used once.
Is a stop bath really necessary? I've heard that you can just use water.
A long rinse can be used in place of a stop bath.

I strongly suggest you find someone who is actively home developing and printing to help you. Sure, you can do it on your own, but a mentor can help you minimize a beginners trial & error period and get you higher on the learning curve quickly.
 
Joe Scotto said:
Is a stop bath really necessary? I've heard that you can just use water.

Yes, it is true, water can be used. If you WANT a quick stop to the development action though, plain vinegar works pretty well. It is amply acidic to put the brakes on very,very quickly. Developing B&W 35mm film is really not even as difficult as setting up a Facebook account, to use a modern metaphor. Developing your own B&W film is actually kind of a fun, and fascinating endeavor. I think everybody deserves the chance to do it at least a few times. Shooting a roll of film, and then developing it is just...well, it's an experience like no other! Do not be afraid of it--it's really NOT that difficult!

Oddly, one of the more tricky things to source these days can be an affordable thermometer that will actually read the needed 68 degree temperature point. Mercury thermometers that can read the 68 to 70 degree zone are now difficult to find, and the flood of cheap, made in China health thermometers often do not go low enough. One solution is to keep your chemicals under the sink in the kitchen or bathroom, where the temperature is typically fairly constant, yet not too cold, and work at "room temperature", and keep good notes on the development times. I've done it that way for the past year, and I've read many different peoples' accounts of how they did it this way in "waterless darkrooms" that did not offer access to running water with temp control.

A "waterless darkroom" is where you pour chemicals into the developing tank, then single-use chemicals are poured out of the developing tank and out into a bucket, while re-usable stuff is poured back into a bottle, and one does the rinsing of the film by doing multiple water/agitate/let stand/dump out/repeat cycles. The rinsing or washing of film by that method is actually SUPER-efficient! Fill the developing tank with rinse water, agitate 10 seconds, let it just "stand" in the tank for 30 seconds,dump the water, and then repeat the agitation/stand/dump process multiple times. Do that for 7 minutes, you're golden.
 
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Transferring film from cassette to a steel reel is actually difficult and can be quite frustrating. The rest is simple, just following directions like cooking a very simple dish. Practice the film transfer with an unexposed roll in the light. Then practice in the dark (eyes closed). After a few practice runs the film will get more difficult to handle (it will most likely get bent). Find some very cheap film, buy a few rolls and practice. The problem in the beginning is getting the film to fit between the steel guides without touching. Developer and fix will not effect where the film touches another part of the film and you end up with undeveloped blotches. This rapidly becomes a frustration ... a mentor can help you roll the film and lower your frustration level.

I've develop thousands of rolls of film (I used to do it for a living back in the film only days) and cannot remember seeing any difference between a roll with stop bath or a roll with a water rinse only.

If you got it ... then sure use it. If you don't have any stop bath, don't worry about it.

Gary
 
To practice putting the film on the reel, just buy a cheap roll of film and sacrifice it. Open it up, cut off the spool, and just roll it onto the developing reel. Once you get the 'feel' of it, try it with your eyes closed or in the changing bag. Keep practicing until you're proficient at it.
 
The nice thing about developing your own film is it's pretty cheap. You can even buy bulk rolls of film. You'll get a can of raw film that's 100 ft long. Then you'll get film canisters and you can roll your own film, as many frames as you want.

To get back in the digital age, you can also get a film scanner like the canoscan. (Printing in your own darkroom is a bit more effort unfortunately)
 
Thanks everyone for all the great information. I'm going to buy some chemicals, B&W film, and supplies this weekend.
 
If you are planning to transfer the film in a dark room, wait until night and find a room without any windows ... like a closet or interior bathroom.

Good Luck, let us know how it goes.
 
Sparky's suggestion about practicing getting the film on the spool is good, that's how I learned. Or maybe re-learned, I'd done some B&W in high school but years later didn't remember the process that well and took an art workshop at a local university.

I've never tried rinse in place of using a stop bath but obviously the purpose of it is to stop the chemical process. You could try Home | Freestyle Photographic Supplies , they carry student supplies that might be more budget friendly.

Film Photography Project | An Internet Radio Show & On-Line Resource for Film Shooters Worldwide has an active Flickr discussion group if you have questions and has videos on their website. If you look up Ilford they have some resources about B&W film, and Kodak has tech sheets for various films and chemistry etc.

If you need equipment you could try Pittsburgh Camera Exchange, I think they have two locations, one that sells vintage film and darkroom equipment. Or try the Columbus Camera Group, or maybe Midwest Photo Exchange.

I agree with Gary that it helps to have someone show you techniques, and that a camera club could be good to look into. I'd suggest (particularly if you want to try doing your own printing eventually) that you see if a local university has a darkroom that's available for use by the public, or if their art dept. offers any continuing ed. summer workshops etc. in photography. If there are any local community art centers you could see if they have a darkroom or offer any summer art camps or classes (some in my area offer classes that are for 16+).
 
Thanks everyone for all the great information. I'm going to buy some chemicals, B&W film, and supplies this weekend.

Hopefully you have a film camera.........
Rim_Shot_emoticon.gif
 
I've heard that the plastic reels in the Patterson tanks are easier to load than the steel reels - I can't say if that's true or not because I've only used the Patterson. They're not too bad, but I agree that loading the film is probably one of the more frustrating steps.

Make sure everything is perfectly dry before trying to load the film. It will make it easier to deal with. I also find that cutting a tiny bit off the lead corners helps it load more easily, but I'm not sure how that trick holds for the steel reels.
 
........ I also find that cutting a tiny bit off the lead corners helps it load more easily, but I'm not sure how that trick holds for the steel reels.

It doesn't because you don't 'push' the film from the outside in. You start at the inside and work your way out. The end of the film is pushed into a clip to hold it in place, and the film is then run into the spiral rails in ever-expanding arcs.
 

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