I know a lot of you guys don't like car shots but C&C wanted.

Discussion in 'Photography Beginners' Forum' started by jeff_scott, Jun 9, 2010.

  1. jeff_scott

    jeff_scott TPF Noob!

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    Finally took an afternoon to take some car shots with a friend. Neither of us had time to do it near sundown so the sun was being a dirty whore all day and making things a little tough. C&C wanted.

    1. [​IMG]
    2. [​IMG]
    3. [​IMG]
    4. [​IMG]
    5. [​IMG]
    6. [​IMG]
    7. [​IMG]
    8. [​IMG]

    Shot 8 was good except for the lens hood coming into the shot, I like the picture quality itself though.

    Let me know what you guys think.
     
  2. ifi

    ifi TPF Noob!

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    Good effort, I liked 6 and 7, all of your shots show motion so that is good. As you mentioned, the first few have light issue. But lets not say anything bad about the sun :)

    Overall :thumbup:
     
  3. jeff_scott

    jeff_scott TPF Noob!

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    Thanks. I know this is a broad question and probably a little difficult to answer but what would you recommend doing differently in the first few shots?
     
  4. ifi

    ifi TPF Noob!

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    Wait for the sundown :)

    There are many reflections and part of the background is washed out. I would try to get both the car and the background in focus.

    I am not a pro but this is what I would try :)
     
  5. jeff_scott

    jeff_scott TPF Noob!

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    Touche on the sundown, I wish both my friend and I had the time.

    Advice on getting both the background and subject in focus, noted as well.

    Thanks!
     
  6. KmH

    KmH Helping photographers learn to fish Supporting Member

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    You can make noon look like midnight, if you know how to use strobed light.
     
  7. ifi

    ifi TPF Noob!

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    I remember seeing some of your work, so what is your secret :)
     
  8. jeff_scott

    jeff_scott TPF Noob!

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    Unfortunately I'm not that experienced with lighting equipment, however I am more than open for beginner advice on lighting techniques.
     
  9. dak1b

    dak1b TPF Noob!

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    there too many pics to C&C all but....

    1) lighit is blown out on left side of photo
    2) harsh lighting on background wall and on front of car
    3) front and back reflections...
    4)ok....
    5) i like
    6) is cool just too much shadow/darkness front of car
    7) slightly out of focus...i like wat ur trying to do.
    8) cool shot overall w/o the lens in the way...
     
  10. KmH

    KmH Helping photographers learn to fish Supporting Member

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    There is no secret to it.

    Having an understanding of how a camera works helps a great deal though.

    What happens when you set the aperture to a small lens opening, ambient light wise? Not much light gets in.

    The fastest shutter speed that can sync with strobed light at full power is 1/200 or 1/250 depending on the camera, or if the camera has the feature you can use FP/HSS sync mode and use any shutter speed that is faster than the normal sync speed.

    With dSLR's you have 2 choices for when strobed light fires. At the begining of the exposure (front/first curtain sync) or at the end of the exposure (rear/second curtain sync).

    Think about what happens in each situation and investigate how long a burst of light from a strobe lasts based on it's power setting.

    For a a Nikon SB-600 has a duration of the flash at
    1/1 power = 1/900
    1/2 power = 1/1600
    1/4 power = 1/3400
    1/8 power = 1/6600 (faster than the fastest shutter speed D3000/D5000/D90)
    1/16 power = 1/11,100 (faster than any Nikon shutter made)
    1/32 power = 1/20,000
    1/64 power is 1/25,000

    So, with a small lens opening restricting the amount of light getting in, the shutter set to the normal sync speed (1/200 or 1/250), the camera set to rear/second curtain sync, flash set to full power, the flash takes over the function of the shutter and can stop motion since the duration of a SB-600 is 1/900 or shorter.

    The shutter speed then actually controls the background exposure, rather than being a means to stop motion.

    You control the exposure of the subject with the speedlight power output and/or the lens aperture.
     

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