I want to buy a 4k camera for video

[bernyneedshelp]

I'd use a telephoto before a macro for aquarium animals. Macros are great when you can get in close, but with glass and several inches (or even feet) between the lens and the subject a tele will work better.

This is more about photographs, but it can be applied to video as well.

Thanks, and what about wide angle lenses, what are they useful for?

 

[bernyneedshelp]

So if you don't film yourself, you may not need lights at the beginning. And you don't need to think about a teleprompter either. You could think about a black backgrund, or you can keep the wall as is - that depends on your preferences.
What kind of lights are you going to get and will the tank be open, or closed?
How are you going to present the equipment you've been talking about?

I don't know how big the tank is, but if it's possible to put in on wheels somehow, that might give you nice options later on. The desk might help you with the slider btw, in case you decide to get one.

Plus: consider some sort of timelapse. Therfore you'd need a place where the camera can be placed equally every single day, better 2-3 times a day. The difficult thing is: it will not have the same framing as soon as you touch the camera and I'm not sure if autoalign will work in post production when the content of the tank changes. But you could try it.

A very important thing is a storybook and a structure. Have your text and the structure of your videos ready way before you start the work on your tank.

The background of the tank is most likely going to be black, it will be open top and Im going to use LEDs and T5s for lighting, for the equipment I'm probably going to put it on the floor or a desk and film it with the slider or with a static tripod to show specific parts. I'm not sure abut the size of the tank but probably 120gallons or larger which will weigh about 500kg or more with the stand so adding wheels won't be possible haha.

Cooooooool 120 gallons . I'll definitely subscribe to your channel in case you create one!
Then I'd say you need some lighting for the non-tank shots. Well, and that I'd say depends on how much you really plan to cover.
You can get really good quality video with cheap 500w lights from the hardware store, if you are a little creative and don't want to spend too much money. It's all a question of light formers. But these too can be DIY, using gels and creating a frame of wood.
Buying expensive lighting equipment only pays off if you use it regularely, then you pay for convenience and ease of use. But light usually is light, that can be formed and color corrected to your needs (beside cheap LEDs and fluorescents). If you have the tank and the equipment in the frame at the same time, you need to color balance the light so that they both have the same color temperature. That's similar to white balance and can be done with gel filters. If not, you just white balance in camera for the kind of light you use.

I do own reptiles and I use UVB bulbs for them to bask on but apart from that I need lights to light the terrarium so I could use those lights to illuminate the equipment when I film it.

If your lights are not too purple (I think I've seen purple ones for reptiles) and bright enough, that should work. That sounds like a cool plan, looking forward to the results .

And what about lenses, should I get a macro and the lens that comes with the camera or should I just buy the body and the macro and another lens? Also, how do I choose how many mm long it is?

I have to slightly disagree with advanced photo and with the article. Using these techniques from the article in a public aquarium should work pretty well. While your 120 gallon tank is huge, public aquariums are massive sometimes, so they give you other options. Plus: at home you can control light and reflections and there is nothing wrong wearing a ninja outfit .
Getting so close to the tank that you use a lens hood for removing reflections won't work too well for video, because you can't track the fish. Even slight rotation to left or right will result in aweful fringing. Same with wideangle lenses. Getting close to the tank will blur the corners of your frame, while shooting from a distance keeps those angles smaller and with it refraction.
Lens choice is difficult and depends on how far away you can get from your tank - if you can't, a tele won't work because they typically have a minimum focus distance of 1m+. And if you can't get far away from your tank, you dont need a lens that pulls it closer.
The longer the lens, the better your tripod fluid head has to be, and the less likely handheld will work for tracking a fish.
So a macro is key to some of the shots from the video you posted. Sony just introduced a new 50mm macro. The downside usually is, that they don't focus quick. I don't know about the newer ones though.
In my opinion 50mm is the perfect focal length for full frame sensors. Unfortunately there is no wider macro option for crop sensots to give you the same field of view. But that too should work pretty well. So I'd start out with that in mind.
BTW: try it. With amazon you can usually do that. If you don't like it you can send it back.

I didn't know you could send lenses back, so would this lens and the one that comes standard with the camera be ok? https://www.amazon.com/Sony-SEL50M2...TF8&qid=1476132340&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+macro

Would a prime lens be a bad idea? Does it mean you cant zoom but can still focus on things that are at different distances??

 

[bernyneedshelp]

So if you don't film yourself, you may not need lights at the beginning. And you don't need to think about a teleprompter either. You could think about a black backgrund, or you can keep the wall as is - that depends on your preferences.
What kind of lights are you going to get and will the tank be open, or closed?
How are you going to present the equipment you've been talking about?

I don't know how big the tank is, but if it's possible to put in on wheels somehow, that might give you nice options later on. The desk might help you with the slider btw, in case you decide to get one.

Plus: consider some sort of timelapse. Therfore you'd need a place where the camera can be placed equally every single day, better 2-3 times a day. The difficult thing is: it will not have the same framing as soon as you touch the camera and I'm not sure if autoalign will work in post production when the content of the tank changes. But you could try it.

A very important thing is a storybook and a structure. Have your text and the structure of your videos ready way before you start the work on your tank.

The background of the tank is most likely going to be black, it will be open top and Im going to use LEDs and T5s for lighting, for the equipment I'm probably going to put it on the floor or a desk and film it with the slider or with a static tripod to show specific parts. I'm not sure abut the size of the tank but probably 120gallons or larger which will weigh about 500kg or more with the stand so adding wheels won't be possible haha.

Cooooooool 120 gallons . I'll definitely subscribe to your channel in case you create one!
Then I'd say you need some lighting for the non-tank shots. Well, and that I'd say depends on how much you really plan to cover.
You can get really good quality video with cheap 500w lights from the hardware store, if you are a little creative and don't want to spend too much money. It's all a question of light formers. But these too can be DIY, using gels and creating a frame of wood.
Buying expensive lighting equipment only pays off if you use it regularely, then you pay for convenience and ease of use. But light usually is light, that can be formed and color corrected to your needs (beside cheap LEDs and fluorescents). If you have the tank and the equipment in the frame at the same time, you need to color balance the light so that they both have the same color temperature. That's similar to white balance and can be done with gel filters. If not, you just white balance in camera for the kind of light you use.

I do own reptiles and I use UVB bulbs for them to bask on but apart from that I need lights to light the terrarium so I could use those lights to illuminate the equipment when I film it.

If your lights are not too purple (I think I've seen purple ones for reptiles) and bright enough, that should work. That sounds like a cool plan, looking forward to the results .

And what about lenses, should I get a macro and the lens that comes with the camera or should I just buy the body and the macro and another lens? Also, how do I choose how many mm long it is?

I have to slightly disagree with advanced photo and with the article. Using these techniques from the article in a public aquarium should work pretty well. While your 120 gallon tank is huge, public aquariums are massive sometimes, so they give you other options. Plus: at home you can control light and reflections and there is nothing wrong wearing a ninja outfit .
Getting so close to the tank that you use a lens hood for removing reflections won't work too well for video, because you can't track the fish. Even slight rotation to left or right will result in aweful fringing. Same with wideangle lenses. Getting close to the tank will blur the corners of your frame, while shooting from a distance keeps those angles smaller and with it refraction.
Lens choice is difficult and depends on how far away you can get from your tank - if you can't, a tele won't work because they typically have a minimum focus distance of 1m+. And if you can't get far away from your tank, you dont need a lens that pulls it closer.
The longer the lens, the better your tripod fluid head has to be, and the less likely handheld will work for tracking a fish.
So a macro is key to some of the shots from the video you posted. Sony just introduced a new 50mm macro. The downside usually is, that they don't focus quick. I don't know about the newer ones though.
In my opinion 50mm is the perfect focal length for full frame sensors. Unfortunately there is no wider macro option for crop sensots to give you the same field of view. But that too should work pretty well. So I'd start out with that in mind.
BTW: try it. With amazon you can usually do that. If you don't like it you can send it back.

I just read that the lens in the link I shared actually focuses at 16cm, considering my rocks will be at a minimum of 30cm away from the glass I think it won't do the job, but I really like that lens haha, I might get it for other stuff anyway, but not at the start for economical reasons haha, its 500$$$.

 

[photo1x1.com]

The background of the tank is most likely going to be black, it will be open top and Im going to use LEDs and T5s for lighting, for the equipment I'm probably going to put it on the floor or a desk and film it with the slider or with a static tripod to show specific parts. I'm not sure abut the size of the tank but probably 120gallons or larger which will weigh about 500kg or more with the stand so adding wheels won't be possible haha.

Cooooooool 120 gallons . I'll definitely subscribe to your channel in case you create one!
Then I'd say you need some lighting for the non-tank shots. Well, and that I'd say depends on how much you really plan to cover.
You can get really good quality video with cheap 500w lights from the hardware store, if you are a little creative and don't want to spend too much money. It's all a question of light formers. But these too can be DIY, using gels and creating a frame of wood.
Buying expensive lighting equipment only pays off if you use it regularely, then you pay for convenience and ease of use. But light usually is light, that can be formed and color corrected to your needs (beside cheap LEDs and fluorescents). If you have the tank and the equipment in the frame at the same time, you need to color balance the light so that they both have the same color temperature. That's similar to white balance and can be done with gel filters. If not, you just white balance in camera for the kind of light you use.

I do own reptiles and I use UVB bulbs for them to bask on but apart from that I need lights to light the terrarium so I could use those lights to illuminate the equipment when I film it.

If your lights are not too purple (I think I've seen purple ones for reptiles) and bright enough, that should work. That sounds like a cool plan, looking forward to the results .

And what about lenses, should I get a macro and the lens that comes with the camera or should I just buy the body and the macro and another lens? Also, how do I choose how many mm long it is?

I have to slightly disagree with advanced photo and with the article. Using these techniques from the article in a public aquarium should work pretty well. While your 120 gallon tank is huge, public aquariums are massive sometimes, so they give you other options. Plus: at home you can control light and reflections and there is nothing wrong wearing a ninja outfit .
Getting so close to the tank that you use a lens hood for removing reflections won't work too well for video, because you can't track the fish. Even slight rotation to left or right will result in aweful fringing. Same with wideangle lenses. Getting close to the tank will blur the corners of your frame, while shooting from a distance keeps those angles smaller and with it refraction.
Lens choice is difficult and depends on how far away you can get from your tank - if you can't, a tele won't work because they typically have a minimum focus distance of 1m+. And if you can't get far away from your tank, you dont need a lens that pulls it closer.
The longer the lens, the better your tripod fluid head has to be, and the less likely handheld will work for tracking a fish.
So a macro is key to some of the shots from the video you posted. Sony just introduced a new 50mm macro. The downside usually is, that they don't focus quick. I don't know about the newer ones though.
In my opinion 50mm is the perfect focal length for full frame sensors. Unfortunately there is no wider macro option for crop sensots to give you the same field of view. But that too should work pretty well. So I'd start out with that in mind.
BTW: try it. With amazon you can usually do that. If you don't like it you can send it back.

I just read that the lens in the link I shared actually focuses at 16cm, considering my rocks will be at a minimum of 30cm away from the glass I think it won't do the job, but I really like that lens haha, I might get it for other stuff anyway, but not at the start for economical reasons haha, its 500$$$.

That is the minimum focus distance - so everything from 16cm to infinity - that´s just perfect. Prime lenses usually have the best quality. That´s correct - you can´t zoom, but you can focus from the minimum distance all the way to infinity. Check with amazon.com - in Europe it works, don´t know whether US ro Australia have different terms, but I don´t think so.
BTW: you could theoretically buy the camera without lens, those kit lenses are usually a good deal though. Not the best quality, but rather inexpensive and you get a discount if you buy the kit.

 

[bernyneedshelp]

Cooooooool 120 gallons . I'll definitely subscribe to your channel in case you create one!
Then I'd say you need some lighting for the non-tank shots. Well, and that I'd say depends on how much you really plan to cover.
You can get really good quality video with cheap 500w lights from the hardware store, if you are a little creative and don't want to spend too much money. It's all a question of light formers. But these too can be DIY, using gels and creating a frame of wood.
Buying expensive lighting equipment only pays off if you use it regularely, then you pay for convenience and ease of use. But light usually is light, that can be formed and color corrected to your needs (beside cheap LEDs and fluorescents). If you have the tank and the equipment in the frame at the same time, you need to color balance the light so that they both have the same color temperature. That's similar to white balance and can be done with gel filters. If not, you just white balance in camera for the kind of light you use.

I do own reptiles and I use UVB bulbs for them to bask on but apart from that I need lights to light the terrarium so I could use those lights to illuminate the equipment when I film it.

If your lights are not too purple (I think I've seen purple ones for reptiles) and bright enough, that should work. That sounds like a cool plan, looking forward to the results .

And what about lenses, should I get a macro and the lens that comes with the camera or should I just buy the body and the macro and another lens? Also, how do I choose how many mm long it is?

I have to slightly disagree with advanced photo and with the article. Using these techniques from the article in a public aquarium should work pretty well. While your 120 gallon tank is huge, public aquariums are massive sometimes, so they give you other options. Plus: at home you can control light and reflections and there is nothing wrong wearing a ninja outfit .
Getting so close to the tank that you use a lens hood for removing reflections won't work too well for video, because you can't track the fish. Even slight rotation to left or right will result in aweful fringing. Same with wideangle lenses. Getting close to the tank will blur the corners of your frame, while shooting from a distance keeps those angles smaller and with it refraction.
Lens choice is difficult and depends on how far away you can get from your tank - if you can't, a tele won't work because they typically have a minimum focus distance of 1m+. And if you can't get far away from your tank, you dont need a lens that pulls it closer.
The longer the lens, the better your tripod fluid head has to be, and the less likely handheld will work for tracking a fish.
So a macro is key to some of the shots from the video you posted. Sony just introduced a new 50mm macro. The downside usually is, that they don't focus quick. I don't know about the newer ones though.
In my opinion 50mm is the perfect focal length for full frame sensors. Unfortunately there is no wider macro option for crop sensots to give you the same field of view. But that too should work pretty well. So I'd start out with that in mind.
BTW: try it. With amazon you can usually do that. If you don't like it you can send it back.

I just read that the lens in the link I shared actually focuses at 16cm, considering my rocks will be at a minimum of 30cm away from the glass I think it won't do the job, but I really like that lens haha, I might get it for other stuff anyway, but not at the start for economical reasons haha, its 500$$$.

That is the minimum focus distance - so everything from 16cm to infinity - that´s just perfect. Prime lenses usually have the best quality. That´s correct - you can´t zoom, but you can focus from the minimum distance all the way to infinity. Check with amazon.com - in Europe it works, don´t know whether US ro Australia have different terms, but I don´t think so.
BTW: you could theoretically buy the camera without lens, those kit lenses are usually a good deal though. Not the best quality, but rather inexpensive and you get a discount if you buy the kit.

Oh great, that's perfect then, I can't find the camera with the kit lens, if I buy it without lens and then get that macro should that be enough? Or would you recoment getting another lens too?

 

[photo1x1.com]

I do own reptiles and I use UVB bulbs for them to bask on but apart from that I need lights to light the terrarium so I could use those lights to illuminate the equipment when I film it.

If your lights are not too purple (I think I've seen purple ones for reptiles) and bright enough, that should work. That sounds like a cool plan, looking forward to the results .

And what about lenses, should I get a macro and the lens that comes with the camera or should I just buy the body and the macro and another lens? Also, how do I choose how many mm long it is?

I have to slightly disagree with advanced photo and with the article. Using these techniques from the article in a public aquarium should work pretty well. While your 120 gallon tank is huge, public aquariums are massive sometimes, so they give you other options. Plus: at home you can control light and reflections and there is nothing wrong wearing a ninja outfit .
Getting so close to the tank that you use a lens hood for removing reflections won't work too well for video, because you can't track the fish. Even slight rotation to left or right will result in aweful fringing. Same with wideangle lenses. Getting close to the tank will blur the corners of your frame, while shooting from a distance keeps those angles smaller and with it refraction.
Lens choice is difficult and depends on how far away you can get from your tank - if you can't, a tele won't work because they typically have a minimum focus distance of 1m+. And if you can't get far away from your tank, you dont need a lens that pulls it closer.
The longer the lens, the better your tripod fluid head has to be, and the less likely handheld will work for tracking a fish.
So a macro is key to some of the shots from the video you posted. Sony just introduced a new 50mm macro. The downside usually is, that they don't focus quick. I don't know about the newer ones though.
In my opinion 50mm is the perfect focal length for full frame sensors. Unfortunately there is no wider macro option for crop sensots to give you the same field of view. But that too should work pretty well. So I'd start out with that in mind.
BTW: try it. With amazon you can usually do that. If you don't like it you can send it back.

I just read that the lens in the link I shared actually focuses at 16cm, considering my rocks will be at a minimum of 30cm away from the glass I think it won't do the job, but I really like that lens haha, I might get it for other stuff anyway, but not at the start for economical reasons haha, its 500$$$.

That is the minimum focus distance - so everything from 16cm to infinity - that´s just perfect. Prime lenses usually have the best quality. That´s correct - you can´t zoom, but you can focus from the minimum distance all the way to infinity. Check with amazon.com - in Europe it works, don´t know whether US ro Australia have different terms, but I don´t think so.
BTW: you could theoretically buy the camera without lens, those kit lenses are usually a good deal though. Not the best quality, but rather inexpensive and you get a discount if you buy the kit.

Oh great, that's perfect then, I can't find the camera with the kit lens, if I buy it without lens and then get that macro should that be enough? Or would you recoment getting another lens too?

I´m afraid I can´t tell you that much about the macro lens - I want to buy it myself, but wait until it is readily available. One issue macro lenses often have as I said though is rather slow focus. If it focusses fast enough, it might be OK to go with this lens only. But it also depends on your room - perhaps you need a wideangle lens for some shots to be able to get everything in the frame that you want to show. If you can walk a step back instead because the room is big enough, that wouldn´t be necessary.

 

[AlanKlein]

What settings to eliminate the soap opera look?

Alan, are you referring to the fringing/refraction-blur?... .

By the soap opera effect, I'm referring to that unreal look that appears that everything is live, but phony, something you don't get with film. What settings or other things can you do when shooting digital video to eliminate that effect?

 

[photo1x1.com]

What settings to eliminate the soap opera look?

Alan, are you referring to the fringing/refraction-blur?... .

By the soap opera effect, I'm referring to that unreal look that appears that everything is live, but phony, something you don't get with film. What settings or other things can you do when shooting digital video to eliminate that effect?

Sorry, I didn't get that.
The so called film-look has the following characteristics:

• first and foremost: shallow depth, blurred background. Videocameras use pretty small sensors, and they physically create an image where everything is sharp, from front to back and the main object doesn't stand out. That is the reason why I so vehemently opposed against the suggestions for videocameras in this thread. Other factors for shallow depth are the use of large apertures and where possible long focal lengths.
• high contrast. Reduce the contrast settings and you get more film look
• the right shutter speed which should ideally be 1/2xfps while fps stands for your framerate (25 in pal countries and 30 in ntsc countries). that would result in 1/50sec or 1/60 sec. That makes the footage look more fluid.

There are several other factors, like for example how soaps are lit, slight vignetting, some even add grain in post to create a filmlook, but those are minor things in my opinion. Get the three mentioned right will totally change the look of your footage.

 

[AlanKlein]

So I'm videoing with a 1 inch sensor on my P&S. So I could switch to manual and set shutter for 1/60, 30 frames per second and largest aperture opening. Just to decrease DOF. Then the Auto ISO would have to adjust for correct for exposure. Does this make sense? Contrast
; I believe you meant to say "increase" the settings to increase contrast. Yes?

Would 24fps be better than 30f? (Then set shutter for 1/50 rather than 1/60)??

 

[photo1x1.com]

So I'm videoing with a 1 inch sensor on my P&S. So I could switch to manual and set shutter for 1/60, 30 frames per second and largest aperture opening. Just to decrease DOF. Then the Auto ISO would have to adjust for correct for exposure. Does this make sense? Contrast
; I believe you meant to say "increase" the settings to increase contrast. Yes?

Would 24fps be better than 30f? (Then set shutter for 1/50 rather than 1/60)??

That´s generally speaking correct. Even tough you can´t expect wonders from a 1 inch sensor I´m afraid.
But for outdoor shootings an open aperture and 1/60th (or 1/50th for 24fps - which is better in regard to film look, yes) lets quite a lot of light in. Too much to compensate with ISO only. That´s where an ND filter comes in handy. It reduces the light in order not to overexpose the footage.
Does that make sense?

And regarding contrast: it really means decreasing to get a more soft, flat look. Sounds weird, but movies usually have less contrast. That gives you a better dynamic range too and it´s easier to capture highlights as well as shadows.

And finally don´t forget about focal length. The further you zoom in, the more shallow the depth.

 

[Advanced Photo]

That would really be a drag if you could only focus on things precisely 16 cm away...
I don't think they would sell a lot of those.

 

[bernyneedshelp]

The 4K camera ,we recommend you use sony a6300,and if you need 4K field monitor,then we recommend
you use Feelworld new 7" FULL HD 1920*1200 with hdmi inputs that support 4K,check the link below:
FEELWORLD 7" IPS 4K HDMI Full HD 1920x1200 On-Camera Monitor Ultra-thin Design FW760-Shenzhen Feelworld Technology Co.,Ltd

Yeah I was planning on using the sony A6300 but the A6500 just came out so I have to check what is new and see which of the two I prefer.

IIIIf you consider buying the a6500, you might even be able to go without tripod - didn´t know that you´d consider spending so much money on the camera only. It hast the same internal stabilizer than the A7II series, and these are nothing but fantastic. I´ve just recently shot some videos handheld over the head with a 55mm lens, and you wouldn´t believe how smooth that is. It sounds weird, but I just yesterday wanted to suggest getting the A7II and skipping tripod and maybe even slider. Then I deleted the text again, thinking that is too much money for your pockets for camera only. And now the a6500 is out. Yay!

Yeah I've watched a few videos and the internal stabilization is supposed to be great, but can it really replace the fluid head? Or can it make an average tripod good enough?

Sorry,what do you mean?

Right now I don't own a camera or any camera equipment, I want to get the a6500 and a tripod, my question is weather i need a good fluid head for my videos or if hand holding it and moving it myself will look good with the new stabilization in the a6500.

 

[480sparky]

Get the good tripod with a dedicated video head. You will not regret it.

 

[table1349]

This should solve all your problems. Filmmaking

 

[bernyneedshelp]

This should solve all your problems. Filmmaking

It's equipment for iphones and ipads, the only camera equipment is the audio.