Is there such a thing as a cheap spot meter?

David Hicks

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I just bought an rb67 and now am looking at spot meters, cause I cant lug my dslr around all the time to meter with... however, I was expecting something more in the range of 150 buck, not 400+...

do cheap spot meters exist? If so, where can I find one?
 
If you don't need flash metering capability, you should be able to find a more affordable reflected/incident meter and then find a spot attachment for it.
 
I searched and searched and waited and waited 'til I finally found my Pentax V spotmeter on eBay for $170. With patience and persistence you can find a good deal.
 
I have same question, where i can find a light meter[spot or so] for my film cameras [RZ67II + 501CM + Holga 120WPC]? I want only new one and not used.
I have Sekonic L-758DR but seems maybe it is not good for film to use with, or it is good enough and no need for another light meter? I really don't know how to use it for my film.
 
The cheapest spot meters I know of are 35mm SLRs with built-in spot meters.
They can be used just for their metering ability while shooting with another
camera. The meter camera doesn't have to be fully functional, just the spot
meter function. Some can be had quite cheaply, especially if they have a
flaw.

For example, I have a Miranda Sensorex EE with a very accurate spot meter
mode. There are others such as the Mamiya 500/1000 TL/DTL cameras and
others. You can buy an ugly one with working spot meter for peanuts. You
might have to compensate a stop or two but that can be worked out with
some testing before use.

An Olympus OM2S has a spot meter and is pretty small as SLRs go. Comparable
size to some spot meters.
 
I got the Gossen Digisix for 100 EUR (about 150 USD)

Looking on [ame="http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gossen+digisix&x=0&y=0"]Amazon.com [/ame]it looks like you can find one for a similar price in the states, and they have a used one going for $70.

It's a very nice meter and easy to use -- you can do ambient or spot, and my film is perfectly exposed.

Also, you can use your dSLR in a pinch. Before I got my light meter I used that to take readings -- and it was fairly accurate....
 
I'm in a similar boat!

I just got a Mamiya 645, 4 lenses different size film inserts and a couple of other things for it... It's really great so far, though the mirror is getting caught on a seam of foam that has risen, probably an easy fix.

Anyway, I wanted another incident meter, as I had a great experience with my Weston Master II and invercone, though the selenium crystal seems to only work in bright outdoor conditions in its very old age.

So, I got a Gossen Luna Pro w/ a 7.5/15 degree spot meter attachment and a Gossen Luna Pro-F (for flash readings) for around a hundred bucks altogether and both of which seem to work really great (and both accept the spot meter attachment).

I'd love to have a pentax or minolta style spot meter, but this seems like it will work just great for metering a subject or area... Both Gossens are plastic, but a very heavy duty and sturdy housing, still. And the Luna Pro -F takes a normal 9v battery instead of weird discontinued mercury batteries like the luna Pro (I bought expensive adaptors to use normal silver oxide batteries with it). Plus, I snapped up the Luna pro + spot attachment for like $80 and then the Luna Pro F afterwards for $20... Pro-F also has a cool design- instead of telling you where to set the dial like my Weston and Luna Pro, the Luna Pro-F moves the needle and tells you which way to turn the dial until the needle is at the "0" position. Pretty cool, especially for $20 and flash metering...
 
I was in a similar boat. No longer. I'mmaking my Weston Master IV work for me. I have multiple cards of varying tonalities and I hold them in a similar angle to reproduce reflectivity and meter from that. How do I choose? I snap the subject with my cell phone in black and white and check it out that way. I have toyed with the idea of creating a tube or two for the meter that I would affix over the sensor that would reduce the light entering the tube and being read by the meter. All I would need to do would be to meter a evenly lit, non textured surfacewith and without the tube and note the difference in measurement. There are ways around not being able to find a spot meter for $40-$50.
 
I have and no longer use one of the Pentax 1 degree digital spot meters, in perfect working order and with the original soft case and lens cap and manual. In fact it is like new EXCEPT for a small dent in the front ring, due to being dropped once, and that would have to be fixed before any threaded filter could be attached.

It is the slender model which unlike the Spotmeter V does not have a wheel (dial) on the side. I'm willing to sell mine but first need to do some research to determine its value is.

A picture of the one I have is shown at
http://www.photographyreview.com/channels/photographyreview/images/products/Product_84280.jpg
 
I bought 2 Soligor Spot Sensor 1s for parts and made one working one out of them. With shipping and all I paid around $45.

The trick is to remember what one needs to make it work and then only spend on another that helps you along your way. Ask questions and don't just hope for the best. Patience helps too ;).
 
I have same question, where i can find a light meter[spot or so] for my film cameras [RZ67II + 501CM + Holga 120WPC]? I want only new one and not used.
I have Sekonic L-758DR but seems maybe it is not good for film to use with, or it is good enough and no need for another light meter? I really don't know how to use it for my film.

Your 758 will work just fine as a reflected, incident and spot meter. My partner at the studio has one, I have the older 558, both work well for all intents and purposes.


erie
 
I picked up a Minolta Flash Meter III on Ebay for just under 100 dollars. It does a great job. I've had several cameras cleaned, lubed, and adjusted and the flash meter is in line with the cameras more or less so I think it's working right.

Have shot a few rolls using the incident reading and it's given me a better toll for working my exposures than just the reflected light, which of course the meter can do as well.

I'm sure the original poster has gotten his meter by now but thought I would toss out the Minolta Flash Meter III as a good inexpensive meter to get and will allow the user to advance and some day do flash metering as well.
 
If you're not averse to used, I would highly recommend the Asahi Pentax Model II. It is Analog and I have one which I've been using since the 60's. The only thing I had to do several years ago was machine a small size adapter cup to accommodate a Hearing aid battery to replace the 1.3v Mercury battery which is no longer available. I saw one for sale on eBay a while back for around $100 but without an adapter cup. I highly recommend this model as it's accurate and easy to use.
 

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