just inherited a rollieflex mf

Discussion in 'Photography Equipment & Products' started by Osmer_Toby, Mar 6, 2005.

  1. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    and need some advice-
    starting with how to identify which paticular model it is. where do i look for serial numbers and or a model name? how do i tell which one it is?

    secondly, i'd like to have it cleaned and tuned- any suggestions for a place to have this done?
     
  2. Mitica100

    Mitica100 Moderator Staff Member Supporting Member

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    Toby, find out serial number and get back with me, I will help you identify the model and approx. year of production. Beware though, I can't really tell the model number only by the lens serial number. And since you're at it... see what shutter/lens combo you have. Sometimes that's the way you identify them.

    I will also post a few links for good repair people.

    Congrats though, that's a great little cam!!!!
     
  3. ksmattfish

    ksmattfish Now 100% DC - not as cool as I once was, but still

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    What does it say on the taking lens (bottom lens)?

    I sent my jammed Rolleiflex to www.camerarepair.com, and they fixed it very quickly for about $150.

    Harry Fleenor is a big name in Rollei repair, but he'll cost you a bit more, and take longer.
     
  4. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    ok gents, this is what i can tell you of markings on the cam:
    top front corner of cam:
    DBP DBGM

    1461891

    bottom lens exterior:

    Franke & Heidecke Braunschweig

    inside lip of lens:

    carl zeiss Nr 1323013 Tessar 75mm
     
  5. ksmattfish

    ksmattfish Now 100% DC - not as cool as I once was, but still

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    It's a Rolleiflex 3.5 MX-EVS made in 1954. (EDIT: sorry, introduced in 1954. It's the model right before mine: a Rolleiflex 3.5E Planar introduced in 1956))

    The Zeiss Tessar lens is a four element design similar to the Schneider Xenar. The five and six element Zeiss Planars and Schneider Xenotars are considered to be better, but it's almost impossible to spot the difference at f/8, f/11, or f/16. It'll still look pretty good compared to the Planar/Xenotar at the other apertures, and the big neg will knock the socks off of 35mm.

    Get it cleaned up and start shooting. You're gonna love it.
     
  6. ksmattfish

    ksmattfish Now 100% DC - not as cool as I once was, but still

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  7. Osmer_Toby

    Osmer_Toby TPF Noob!

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    wow, great stuff, thanks matt!
    i don't mind paying a little more to have a better job done, and would rather spend the time for the right job, too.
    that being the case, would you recommend the latter over the former or are they about equal anyway?
     

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