lense Shadow

[phkc070408]

Hi all:

I have a Canon t5i with a Tameron 10-24 wide angle lense (I forget the model number). I also have a Speedlight 270EX Flash. Unfortunately I'm getting some lense shadow when I take extremely wide angle pictures and I was hoping some of you had ideas.

The speedlight 270 isn't vety tall and I was thinking about a way to raise the flash. Is there a device that merely raises or extends the hot shoe by maybe a half of an inch to an inch, that would raise the flash? Note that the flash doesn't have a jack for an external communication cord, so I would need the hot shoe to remain hot.

If such a device dosn't exist, does anyone have any other ideas as to what I could do?

One Note: I have a GP-E2 GPS adaptor that can be, but is not currently connected to the hot shoe. it is mounted on a side bracket and is connected to the AV out port on the left side, next to the mini-HDMI out.

Does anyone have any ideas to reduce the lense shadow? Thanks!!!

 

[Vtec44]

You can put a piece of paper at an angle, in front of the flash, to bounce the light up so that it will use the ceiling as a huge reflector. You will loose a few stops of light doing that though.

 

[SCraig]

1. Remove the lens hood if it is on the lens.
2. Get a pair of cheap radio triggers (about $30) so you can get the flash off the hot shoe.

 

[TCampbell]

There's a different problem with using a 270EX flash... the angle of light spread to provide flash-coverage maxes out at 28mm (that's 17.5mm if using a crop-sensor camera).

That means that when using a 10-24mm lens, the flash coverage (how much the light spreads) won't be side enough when using the lower-half of your zoom range. It will only illuminate the center of the image. Bouncing the flash will help increase the light spread... at the cost of eating some light (100% of the light that hits your ceiling will not reflect back down on the subjects.)

 

[phkc070408]

"Remove the lens hood if it is on the lens."

Solved!!!!

"There's a different problem with using a 270EX flash... the angle of light spread to provide flash-coverage maxes out at 28mm (that's 17.5mm if using a crop-sensor camera).

That means that when using a 10-24mm lens, the flash coverage (how much the light spreads) won't be side enough when using the lower-half of your zoom range. It will only illuminate the center of the image. Bouncing the flash will help increase the light spread... at the cost of eating some light (100% of the light that hits your ceiling will not reflect back down on the subjects.)"

Good point. I'll have to experiment with that. What is a "crop-sensor" camera? Is that another name for a non full-frame sensor?

 

[bratkinson]

Full-frame cameras have sensors that are the same size as 35mm film...36mm x 24mm. Crop-sensor cameras, mostly APS-C form, have a sensor size of 22.2mm x 14.8mm. As a result, your crop-sensor T5i camera 'sees' only the inner portion of the image that gets projected out the back of a standard lens such as an EF 50mm f1.8. While there have been many discussions about crop sensor vs full frame sensor differences on this forum, perhaps one of the better descriptions is Wikipedia - Crop factor - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

 

[iolair]

2. Get a pair of cheap radio triggers (about $30) so you can get the flash off the hot shoe.

This is good advice; it not only solves your immediate problem, but having the ability to get your flash off-camera opens up a whole world of lighting options.

 

[phkc070408]

2. Get a pair of cheap radio triggers (about $30) so you can get the flash off the hot shoe.

This is good advice; it not only solves your immediate problem, but having the ability to get your flash off-camera opens up a whole world of lighting options.

I'll look into it and will report back, although I may not do it right away.